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Tim240z

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Everything posted by Tim240z

  1. I've never used a gasket on the ends of the intake (front or back), and have never had a leak. Put the intake on, and measure the gap. Then squeeze out some silicon bead a little fatter than the measured gap. Let it set up for a few minute and then bolt everything up. Leave it overnight before heat cycling it. Tim
  2. Mudge, Absolutely use the screwdriver method as a last resort. I've had it happed before that the screwdriver just ripped up the filter and it still didn't turn off. Then you really have a job on your hands!!! Tim
  3. Tim240z

    AFR ????

    Mudge, These are the same as yours (twin downdraft 32/36). I posted my jet sizes in one of your posts on the same subject. Did you ever get your jetting correct? Tim
  4. I spent a grand total of $65 on my floor pans and sub frame connectors, not including welding wire and cutting/grinding disks. Tim
  5. IMHO, dollar for dollar, a V8 will outperform a L6 (N/A or boosted) hands down, all day everyday, and the V8 will be more driveable/streetable. The V8 will weigh less than a Turbo L6 also. It's a no brainer. The only other direction (high HP) that I would (and have) considered going, is the GN Turbo. The V8 is also almost infinitely upgradeable, whereas you will eventually reach the HP wall with the L6. Just my 2c worth. Tim
  6. At least you know now! Good thing you didn't JB weld anything, huh? Tim
  7. "A few bent fins"-----Holy cow!!!!!! He ain't kidding!!!!
  8. This looks pretty cool! Boy I wish i had some bucks! http://www.ultimategarage.com/dynapack.html Tim
  9. Enough room for a vice grip? Or maybe file the edges and use a small wrench? Tim
  10. The MAF engines can just be defaulted to speed density, so that statement doesn't really apply. Tim
  11. Phil, Funny thing with mine, the VATS didn't stop me from starting the engine?!? But I disabled it in the PCM anyway. I use TunerCat. Also, although you are running all the smog stuff, TunerCat allows you to change the RPMs at which the EGR 'comes on'. I changed mine to 6700RPM, so it won't come on since it's rev limited at that point. I don't know why the VATS didn't stop me from running the engine, maybe it's the way I wired it up? Tim
  12. denny, Check out BowtieOverdrives.com. They specialize in GM overdrive trannies, incl. the 200 4R. If I remember right, a HP rebuild is around $700. Tim
  13. I'm using the LT1 (94 Z28). the stock balancer clears in the JTR position. OBD1 units are cheaper to get edited (buy software and cable). This may have changed recently. I am using TunerCat software to edit my PCM. Go to AKM electronics website and read about what;s up. Andrew sells the cable which works for either TunerCat or LT1 Edit. Tim
  14. Tim240z

    To Ship A Car

    Haven't seen the car, but I know James and he's a very good guy. I would buy the car sight unseen (if I didn't have a bevvy of projects underway)!! Tim
  15. Behind the front wheels, in front of the rear wheels, frame rails (scrape away the undercoating...it's there, you just can't see it!!!!), under the battery tray, bottom of doors, under the hatch (rear tray above the tail lights), leading edge of the hood, floors. That should about cover it! Tim
  16. Clean everything back there and determine where the leak is actually coming from before you start gluing stuff together!! Check that the threads in the block match the threads on your fitting!! Tim
  17. Dan, Sorry to say, but I think the new chat room sux Tim
  18. see ya in the chat room: (Friday 19h15 pst) Tim
  19. "Nothing of a sexual nature, I assure you!".....quote from 'Fletch' I believe! BTW, I used to Live in Del Mar (went to Torrey Pines HS). No way I could afford to live there again. Property prices are absolutely insane!!! Tim
  20. Drop me an email. I'll give you my number. BTW, Don't let Owen anywhere near your car. He has the Karma/kiss of death Ha Ha, J/K Owen (kinda)....... Tim
  21. Tim, Here is what the FSM recommends: Turbo Models: STD/Hot: BPR6ES-11 Cold:BPR7ES-11 N/A Models: STD:BPR6ES-11 Hot:BPR5ES-11 Cold:BPR7ES-11 Gap: 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 - 0.043") Tim
  22. According to the FSM: HOT: Intake:0.25mm (0.010inch) Exhaust:0.30mm(0.012inch) Cold:Intake:0.17mm (0.007inch) Exhaust:0.24mm(0.009inch) Tim
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