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Tim240z

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Everything posted by Tim240z

  1. What I did was have a perfectly straight, solid (no U-joints) driveshaft made. I then used that to line up the T56 and R230. 1* is not very much. I could not get my driveline to line up absolutely perfectly, but is probably within 2*. I had measured as carefully as possible before using the solid DS, and I was VERY surprised how far off it was once I installed the solid DS. I am very confident that once I install the U-jointed DS, everything will be smooth!! Tim
  2. 1.1811 inches 10mm=1cm 100cm=1m 1inch = 2.54cm, or 25.4mm Tim
  3. On my 280ZXT, I put mine about 2 inches from the TB. Tim
  4. Usually wheel bearing make a humming/droaning sound. Have someone lay in the back of the car and see if they can pin it down? Tim
  5. You'll probably have to run spacers with that offset. Rims are nice, though. Tim
  6. Since it seems to be speed related, you might want to check the wheel balance on the rears, maybe you have thrown a wheel weight. If so, check the bearings too! Tim
  7. WOW, that place is only 15 minutes from my house!!! I think I might stop by!! Tim
  8. All you should need is the vacuum signal to the distributer. Block off everything else. The SUs each have a vent line going to the air cleaner (small vacuum line size tube.) If you just want to fire the engine, just block off all the heater lines. Tim
  9. Now that is tastefully done!! Not too ricey at all!! Loads of work though.....I bet prepping that engine bay after the fire was a BEEAAATCH! Tim
  10. Well, as for reliability, it really all depends on the quality of the initial build. In my opinion, the V8 would be a good choice for power vs. reliability, purely because the engine won't have to work nearly as hard to get say 300hp, as say a L28 with 300hp. SBC/SBF parts are generally very cheap, and very available too. A low tech (carb) small block chev V8 with an auto tranny will give excellent power, and great driveability, and as long as the tranny is an overdrive unit, your fuel consumption goals will be met fairly easily. HTH, Tim
  11. You gotta check this out: http://www.lifegem.com/secondary/whatisLG.htm Tim
  12. The R200 bar will fit behind the 2 plates coming down behind the diff (mounting points for the rear pickups of the rear control arms), the R180 fits forward of those two plates. Also, the R200 bar is thicker than the R180 bar. Tim
  13. There are no engine mount kits for the 300Z for any engine swap. You will be forging new territory, so document well and let us know how it progresses. Tim
  14. Tim240z

    86 300zx

    Could be some sort of electronic interference with the PCM? Long shot I know, but I've seen it happen. Sounds kinda hokey, but try wrapping it in foil. Tim
  15. Well, far from being an expert, I'll give it a stab: In very simplistic terms, the turbo has two wheels (fans), connected bt a shaft. Exhaust gasses spin one wheel, which in turn spins the other, which takes atmospheric air, compresses it and forces it into the intake manifold. Remember, in a Normally Aspirated (N/A) engine, the combustion chambers fill by the vaccuum caused by the piston moving down the chamber. The compression of the air causes it to get very hot. The intercooler cools the air, making it denser and allowing more ignition timing (hot air causes detonation, all else being equal). Hope that helps and that I'm talking crap. There are some VERY turbo savvy members on this board, hopefully theyu will chime in. Tim
  16. There is another one on E-Bay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2405918386&category=33742 Tim
  17. Upload them to the HybridZ album page. I wanna see the thing!!!
  18. Where in SoCal are you picking up the car?
  19. I am having new ones made by Speedway Engineering here in CA. The splines are the same as the Ford 9" shafts. They quoted me around $130 or so each...for brand new 'NASCAR quality' shafts. Depending on you're schedule.....I will be getting mine done in about 2-3 weeks. Tim
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