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RB26powered74zcar

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Everything posted by RB26powered74zcar

  1. Hope this isn't a repost. Check out 240hokes ride... http://www.tunerzine.com/articles.php?id=188
  2. That will work. My early 260 had a 240 stub on one side, and a 280 on the other when I got it... don't know for sure if it didn't come that way from the factory, as that was a change over period for alot of the 240/ 280 parts... Like you said, make sure to get the companion flange, and your good to go...
  3. I belive James had bought a few cores at once, then made up our IC's as needed. It would suprise me if he still had any left over. Try emailing him thru SpeedShopThagard.com or PM him here onsite, he may be able to steer you in the right direction.
  4. haha... 2 years later, you get advice on how to jerry rig something....
  5. While surfing around, I found this info on RaceBread.com Thanks Carl H heres what ive found and is aplicable to the rb20/25/26 unless noted. head studs: rb20/25 202-4301 rb26 202-4207 rod bolts: z32 dohc vg30 bolts were reported to work on the rb25/26 but will not work on the rb20 (rod bolts are too long for rod, verify length of rb25/26 botls) pn for z32 rod bolts 202-6004 use sr20 bolts, may need slight trimming 202-6005 x2 (2 sets req'd if using kit) or alternatively order (rod bolts and nuts respectively) 12x ar3.67-1 12x n502 rb20 rod bolts ONLY : 202-6003 (l24 late,l26,l28 rod bolts) main studs: this is from my measurements of my stock bolts and my block rb20/25/26 except rb30, again verify lengths and sizes. 3x am4.600-1lb 11x am4.125-1lb 14x 200-8519 14x 300-8344 Carl __________________________________________________ _____--- hope this helps - joel
  6. While surfing around, I found this info on RaceBread.com Thanks Carl H heres what ive found and is aplicable to the rb20/25/26 unless noted. head studs: rb20/25 202-4301 rb26 202-4207 rod bolts: z32 dohc vg30 bolts were reported to work on the rb25/26 but will not work on the rb20 (rod bolts are too long for rod, verify length of rb25/26 botls) pn for z32 rod bolts 202-6004 use sr20 bolts, may need slight trimming 202-6005 x2 (2 sets req'd if using kit) or alternatively order (rod bolts and nuts respectively) 12x ar3.67-1 12x n502 rb20 rod bolts ONLY : 202-6003 (l24 late,l26,l28 rod bolts) main studs: this is from my measurements of my stock bolts and my block rb20/25/26 except rb30, again verify lengths and sizes. 3x am4.600-1lb 11x am4.125-1lb 14x 200-8519 14x 300-8344 Carl _______________________________________________________--- hope this helps - joel
  7. What will be worse is when the winner gets it in the mail, then opens it up to find its just a plain ol R200 open diff..
  8. I spoke with the owner a month or so ago. He's had it for sale on zcar.com, and even here I belive. He has some notion about it going to a person who will put it on the perfect unmolested car. I was very intrested in it and thought we had a deal but he got cold on me, I guess once I explained to him what my Z had done to it. I just left it at that and never tried to talk him into selling it to me.... He sent me some nice pics of whats for sale. Belive me, if I "really" wanted it, that would be the one to get. Its 100% oem, and flawless....
  9. This shot here is unbelivable..... got to be the baddest rear out there!!
  10. Wow Bob, I sure wish I had something that nice to put my RB26 motor in.... Wouldn't this look sweet sitting in your engine bay?? clickie
  11. None of the 1st gen Z cars (70-78) came with intank fuel pumps. I've seen guys use modern plastic fuel tanks from the donor cars they got their LSx motor from. As to which one, I can't say for sure....
  12. If I remember right.... crystal pallace cassino are the ones that bought that grilled cheese sandwich with the bite taken out of it that looked like the virgin mary awhile back on ebay. They paid a butt load for that crusty ol sandwich. I think they put these items on display somewhere...
  13. You should have a horn relay under there too.....
  14. Just over compress it firmly... with the cv bearing inside, it'll pop the end cap off (with lots of grease too). I was refering to local auto parts stores prolly not having the end cap. I think its a dealer item....
  15. I could over look quite abit for some of that......
  16. That my friend, is one ferocious monster...... I'll be sure to stay clear if I ever come up next to it....
  17. Woops, forgot to mention, I did have to trim the bottom area off the valance where the front tires pass while turning the wheel to the left and right... The front tire rubs that area (stock lower valance arch) with larger wheels and tires.
  18. Wow.... what a monster. I love that rear shot of Z cars with a narrowed rear end.... Awesome, I bet it'll smoke em no prob.
  19. As far as I'm concerned, you need the end cap. Unless the mate surface on the stub axle is very smooth and flat, and covers the whole flange area where the cap fits on the axle, it will leak greese once its hot and spinning..... That should be a pretty common part, although I don't think a parts store will have them. You might post a plea for some nice HybridZ member to check and see if they have a extra...
  20. No... just upload them into your HybridZ foto album first, then post the url link.... thats the simplest way
  21. Hey 78zlt1, did you notice they sold you a set of out of round wheels.... lol BTW, I had 17x7 +40 wheels with 1.5" adaptors & coilovers running 235/45/17 tires with out any rubbing. Nice wheels deja!!
  22. I think I have made up my mind already.... I might as well keep the one I know is the best. I guess I'll just give the craftsman to a friend. I didn't do to bad on that deal though for $185. I found it online at Sears for $399
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