RB26powered74zcar

Don't forget about the "High compression pistions (stock Flat Tops)" he said he's using...

Thanks for taking the time to update this thread as you do, and for the great info provided.....

BTW> The R34 Neo RB25det had 280 hp out of the box.....

Let me know if you want to get rid of it. I need a few parts off of it other than those broken gears... thanks~ joel

Just for clarification, you are talking about a long nose R200 open diff, correct?

The info you seek is in the RB section. Start off reading the top row stickys....

That looks great guy.... are those splices on the rear VB flare, where the three spots that look as though tape was on them? ie: did you have to cut and splice the rears to adjust the length?

Ditto here too....

I'd have made them strip down and took their closes....

I'm also giving them a try... hope its better than my last experince.

He's even selling the rusted out front fenders to match....

thats my 14 year old Toy Fox Terrior.... she can rebuild a Z car blind folded... lol. She has been under my feet during every build up for the last 14 yrs, so she's seen it all....

I hit you with a few.... not much, but enjoy..... ~joel

I bought the CF rear spoiler from them a few months back. When I took it out of the box, I heard the same thig your discribing. After looking closely, I noticed that one of the nuts that was molded in on the backside, came off from the inside, and just rolls around. It still has a good one on each end, so hopefully it will hold in down good enough....

I've heard our early Z car headlights refered to as "positive ground", is this true? if so, what does this mean?

Thats the size of my core (except 4.5" thich) so expect to have to mod the end tanks..... (no biggie really). Great price for that size extruded tube and fin. ** EDIT** ment to say bar and plate.. doh!

Intresting motor mount set up. Looks to me like its only using one of the two ears on the motor mount. Its also set back almost touching the firewall.... nice!! Sounds beastly

The correct way is to use a thinner pad. If you try to do it by raising the pivot adjuster, you end up with no clearnce between cam lobe and rocker pad....

Its hard for me to tell what the valve side is doing there by looking at those pics. If the valve side is indeed equal to the pivot side, your good to go, but from what I can see, it looks like its wiping more to the valve side, which means you could use a thinner pad... I've always found it hard to get a good wipe using that kind of material on the rocker. I use a black permenent marker, or I've even sprayed them with flat black spray paint (it comes of easy enough when done), after I wipe off the rocker each time with carb cleaner, and that gives a clean wipe with no smearing.... Give that a go and you'll get a nice clean pattern to show.

Lets hear some VH " hot for teacher" ......

That is slightly to much to ask for that car..... I hate when you run across these septics that think their sitting on a gold mine when they try to sell the Z cars/ parts. If you can hold out, you will do better than that deal... BTW, where abouts do you live?? (BTW Yasin, if it looks like that outside where your at right now.... I'm haulin my rump up to Col. Its to dang hot where I'm at right now.... )

I guess you know, but those are short nose diffs. One is a R200, the other a R230. Neither one is a strait bolt in....

Looks awesome.... !!

Spend a few minutes reading in the drivetrain section, and you'll educate yourself enough to where there shouldn't be any doubt on your part.... I think you should look at pics of what a LSD carrier looks like, then just pull the rear cover off the diff and have a look, if its out of the car.....