260DET

Vehicles usually have a certified maximum towing capacity, that should be a guide at least.

Hehe I've driven a LHD on the left, and been a front seat passenger too, should I contribute? Hmmm, nah, carry on But in AU 2+2's are considered to be the poor relative of the svelte two seater and I have some recollection of Nissan saying in retrospect that the wheelbase to track ratio of the S30 2+2 was all wrong, it was only built to satisfy a demand.

Things would get interesting inside that Porsche crankcase if the oil pump chain broke The TT block I have has those extra two oil pump location bolt holes too, interesting because the JDM DET engine I have uses a Z32 type oil pump. On the subject of Z32 oil pumps, what is them difference between the early and late DE oil pumps? On the Courtesy site they give two numbers at different prices.

Any part numbers or make 'n model of a vehicle that uses one? Dammed if I can find a throwaway type with 3/8 in and out barbed fittings.

The main reason why I started this thread is because when I searched the WWW a few years ago for days, there was a whole lot of talk on the topic but nothing definitive. So its here to inform others and to invite constructive comment. I'm coming from having a good forged Z32 crank and wanting to use that in a 33 block together with the Z32 oil pump in a hybrid VG33ET engine for my road course Z. I already have a Z32 gearbox and flywheel with clutch and lightweight* custom made Z32 accessory mounts which should bolt straight up, spacing the cam gears out is no problem because they will be converted to be adjustable at the same time. Its going to be a relatively easy process for me because of my situation, its up to others to decide which way they want to go, I'm just trying to provide info to assist the decision making process. * some of the stock accessory mounts are so damm heavy, no good for a race car.

Thanks for the recommendation Cary, the connexion between Ortiz's theory and the relevant parts of my car usually gets lost somewhere out there.

Nothing? Won't say what I think of Ebay USA out of respect for this forum.

Anyone got it? After over an hour waiting on their chat line I gave up trying to contact them that way, apparently they have Email but have hidden it too well.

Thread fail until we see a dyno printout with good power from 4000rpm up, otherwise dynoQueen.

If you want to cut holes in your inner guards/fenders that will vent air from the engine bay into the wheel wells, which of course is a low pressure area. May create even less drag than bonnet/hood vents and may also help to ensure there is more pressure on top of your proposed 'fender floors' than below.

Vehicles are a lot cheaper in the US so I guess the bottom line can get a bit tricky for the bean counters. I'd still go turbo diesel for a tow car though, buy a NA and put a turbo kit on it.

As Jon indicates aero often has to consist of a complete package, sometimes just adding one component makes things worse. I'm a big fan of bonnet/hood vents to get air out of the engine compartment and over the top and to the side of the car both to reduce drag and to improve cooling. The better the air is exhausted out of the engine compartment the less radiator opening is required too, less drag again.

Pity, the twin cam 2.5 liter Nissan turbo diesel puts out as much torque and at lower revs than their four liter twin cam V6 gasoline engine does. Friend of mine has towed his 240Z on a tandem trailer at say 65mph for nearly 24 hours straight with his dual cab.

Small turbo diesel pickup truck or SUV. Don't know what you have in the US but Nissan for one do a four cylinder turbo diesel that will tow a 240Z on a tandem trailer as far as you want. The big thing with a turbo diesel for towing is fuel economy plus the later model ones perform surprisingly well.

A 1.06 back housing makes sense for a 3076, I know that a .82 on the present GT35 would perform better. Have done a lot of research but so many use GT35's on ~three liter engines its hard to go past that, but a lot of them are drag cars or dyno queens. Will get hold of a proven calculator to check my maths though.

Thanks for the comment, finally decided to do the maths involved and bugger me it lands at the three intersection points used just barely to the left of the center island all the way up on the Garrett GT3582R map. Thats with the VG33 rated at 80% VE and 10, 15 and 20 pounds boost at 7000rpm which I guess means that at say 4000rpm the turbo will be operating well out of its efficiency range. With the GT3076R map the same three points are in the center island to the right and up a bit, the 20psi point being up near the top tip of the center island. So I'm guessing that with this turbo between 20 and 25 psi would be a sensible limit and acceleration from 4000 rpm would be a lot better with a 7000 rpm limit about perfect.

It does sound like the turbo unless some anti pollution thing has suddenly blocked up or something. Two mm axial play does sound excessive, if it had that much lateral play then the turbo would be Suspect #1 for sure.

Then there are Borg Warner turbos http://www.bullseyepower.com/S200.asp

Present back housing is a 1.06, was going to change to a .82. About 20 pounds boost will deliver 450whp with the DET engine, would expect the same with the 33 but a bit more boost is no problem if required. I'm a bit wary of having too much response at say 3500rpm in case it runs out of puff at high revs, the engine really needs to pull hard from 4000 up to 7000 with very good throttle response. Precision and Comp are supposedly using smaller more efficient billet wheels than the GT35R has to give a faster spool and comparable power eg http://www.compturbo.com/products/index.php?folder1=Turbo_Chargers&folder2=CT4&product=CT4-6262 In car video of the car, 8000rpm tacho on the right, speedo on the left reads in km/h

Looking at replacing the present GT35R single turbo on either a VG30DET or a VG33E with similar power potential, the present back housing A/R is too big so rather than replace that housing it may be better to go with a complete later technology turbo and sell the present Garrett. A 6262 seems about right, it should spool a bit better and certainly should be capable of delivering say 450whp with a useable power band from 4000 to 7000rpm. Its for my road course S130 so acceleration from 3500-4000rpm in third and higher gears is crucial. Anyone with experience with these turbos who can suggest which specs would be best and comment on their reliability?

Wheels should walk up the rollers a bit like that to get better grip and prevent wheel spin. Max power not held long enough, sounded like it was misfiring, if its any good it should rev at the max for several seconds no problem. I ain't guessing because the video should show the car at max revs and then pan to the monitor in one shot so we can see the numbers, go back and do it again.

Yeh I think some people justify using someone to fix their car for free by saying 'Oh he likes doing that sort of stuff'. Like they were doing the favour

Like your setup Pyro, very neat, thanks for the pic.

Z32 is a damm good box, can still be bought new and they have improved syncros over the earlier ones too. Used in lots of race applications, they are virtually indestructible.

A stiffer body would help too, its body flex that is the primary cause of trim panel creak most times