260DET

Amsoil synthetic 75W-90.

Never heard of a Volvo caliper swap onto a S30, maybe some were done a long time ago when there were no alternatives.

So noone has tried the R1's? Since found out that the Federal RS595 is a high performance road tyre, not a semi slick.

The main problem with a VG33 is getting off the shelf forged pistons for a turbo conversion. I know custom pistons are available but that introduces a bit of the unknown factor. Not sure that a high capacity oil pump is available either. But other than that the VG33 basically has a lot going for it.

Am familiar with Kumho, Bridgestone, Toyo and Yokohamas but what are the BFG g-force R1's like? Also Federals?? For the project car which will have ~350rwhp to start with, 17" wheels, ~ 8.5" F, 9.5" R. Sprint events ie 4-5 hot laps of a circuit. For the first set I'll want fairly good life and value for money, ultimate grip is not a present priority so a fairly hard compound would seem right, climate is mostly warm here too. Whats the go racers?

For your steering rack clearance, will an alternative rack fit? S14 rack for example looks to be more compact than the one pictured. My project ZX has the entire S14 front end fitted, that was not particularly difficult Nice project though I prefer the Nissan V8's myself

S130's donate vital mechanical parts to S30's and as if that is not enough, this

When first getting into Z's I read about those big American front ARB's so went and got a custom 1&1/8" (~27mm) one made. It was crazy, so stiff that the car virtually had a solid acting front axle and would lift one wheel on uneven ground. Thats if the body didn't twist enough to accomodate it

Problem with the S30 is that the small diameter strut tops limit adjustment considerably. Still, if the inner LCA pivot is moved (up and) out then the strut top adjuster could be used to fine tune the setting I suppose.

No, no, no. You got it right and now you want to mess it up. Custom work on some quarter windows is not hard, perspex and aluminium frames will do it.

I've been looking for one of those for ages and finally gave up, ordered one a bit different from Mototsport Auto. But if you can't sell it locally and are prepared to send it to Brisbane then let me know.

This is good, very good. As has been suggested, easier to do a custom job to get the shape you want. Perhaps get a boat windscreen maker to do the frames for you?

I'm speechless so here is a link to some AU commentary and pics http://www.japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1708

The Koni 8611 insert has a slotted (screwdriver) adjuster in the bottom of it from memory, no knob. So its too fat to fit inside the stock S13 or 14 housing? I'm not sure what your main question is, are you asking whether the Z31 or S13/14 setup is the best? If so I'd go with the S setup in which case there are a huge number of choices as to the various components, without the need for any custom made bits that adapting Konis may require. Koni make good stuff but then so do others.

There are generic eccentric adjusters available in various sizes which would do the job. Surely these are available in the US, if not Whiteline for one do them, they may have US outlets. Whiteline link http://www.whiteline.com.au/default.asp?page=/products.htm

US$1850 for the Z32 box according to this http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?p=666412#poststop

The obvious box to look at would be the Z32 5 speed. Its strong and still available new. Alternatively a Tremac?

Where I live 100% of our electricity is coal derived. Hey its dug out of the ground it must be good

Pretty cool eh Guess that the front ARB would be a hollow splined end job, through the rails to get the alignment right, nice.

So what fuel is used to generate the electricity that is used to charge the batteries?

I think that F/R spring rates have already been suggested. Anyway, if you have a persistent straight line traction problem it may be worthwhile trying heavier in the front, which is opposite to the usual with the S30. Say 325F 275R, 350F 300R...........

A stick welder is the go, the heat helps too. I've actually done this and it works.

Those illustrations above say it all really, they clearly show that backspacing is measured fron the hub inner face to the outside edge of the rim lip.

The tyre placard looks to be showing inflation pressures, 2 kg/cm sq = approx 30psi. Looks like you will be needing the back seat very soon

These are still being made in AU, link http://www.performancewheels.com.au/alloywheels_classic.asp Perhaps there is a US importer?