MAG58

Right on. I rebuilt my ZX 5speed in a weekend, and if there is a machine shop in the area, they shouldn't charge much at all to press a bearing on and press a bearing off. I believe that with all new bearings and synchros I was still below 200 bucks in the rebuild. Remember though that if you're rebuilding, the one thing that will do the most good is re-shimming all the gears back to factory tolerances. The years have probably opened up the clearances on the gears making shifting less direct and making the synchro's work harder to get the job done.

The majority of my budget for the rebuild was tied up in body work. Doing it all, probably there is 1200 in it. There are some definite defects (two pinhole size craters that I know of) but it does well for a daily driven car.

I feel that the things that could be bartered would be along the lines of: Trust funds Retirement funds 401k's Houses First Born Children Dog No less than two separate appendages Your eternal soul etc. etc.

Lexus SC300?

Stock 280Z ride height always makes me laugh a little. I feel if they got it any higher they could do some serious off-roading with it. I see some potential here... 2800lb (or less) car on the left with tired motor from the 70's... Small planet on the right with a monster. Solution: Take engine from right, put it in car on left, let Supra's body shell go chill out with pluto. It needs support form something its own size

Well I feel the crank would have to be re-drilled since the stock oiling hole would pretty much fall directly between the two rods and most 4 cylinder engines have a rod width roundabouts 1inch while the stock chev rods are .940 width as well. If you managed to wedge two custom rods on there the width would probably be well below .700 width which is starting to get skinny.

Yep. Mercedes CLK series 6 speed manual, 16v flywheel and spec clutch. The 6 speed is a nice, tight Getrag unit that, iirc, is used in many a bimmer as well. Though I'm quite sure I'm going back to the 3.2 displacement. Stock motor at 18psi netted 499rwhp @6500. That's without major computer tuning, basically a 'rough' tune which is plenty of go to hospitalize me sufficiently quickly.

Interesting point, but you wouldn't happen to know the rod width and dimensions of the main bearings on those cranks, would you?

In the midwest you pretty much are looking at a thousand mile plus trek if you want to get a clean shell, so 30miles is easy.

That would make for a R/S ratio substantially less than 1.5 which is already too short. Would make piston selection easy though piston accelerations would be through the roof and dwell at TDC and BDC would be nonexistent.

My faith for humanity just died a little more. That said, who let the kid get ahold of a Datto?

Try and use as thin of a 14mm wrench as possible as well, there has been more than one time that using a big ol' fat 14mm lead to some interesting valve lashes.

Once again, though I would often be proud of my /b/tardation, I feel that a cite that actually pretends to have morals is not the place to do it... ...who am I kidding.

"You'll never get laid driving an Alfa Romeo"

+1 I've got a monster sway bar and I can still get to it, so no silly room excuses! I wouldn't put it on the cam gear, I feel that using the smaller bolt to torque (over torque?) the cam bolt by trying to turn the cam at half the speed the crank will turn is a poor decision.

My apartment complex is next to a trailer park. The amount of methamphetamine coated tail I could achieve with this car is insurmountable. I need this car. Oh, and a mullet. This internet family has the right idea...

I could be wrong, but from the looks of it, it appears to be the early 280Z five speed, the wide ratio with the relatively short overdrive.

Agreed. Before I went to the T5 box, I machined a shifter bushing of my own and used a stainless washer on each side to center it. It was really tight and always shifted cleanly.

Slick, I wonder how the counter rotating props will fare against a single rotating prop like Dago Red. IIRC, the US Govt experimented with P51's in Vietnam, using turbo-props with a similar counter-rotating setup. I believe their intended use, if they were actually used, would have been close ground support.

Which breather and where? Any decent place that will re-do tanks can braze it back on there for you. Is the rest of the tank in decent shape?

Turbo or N/A oil pump: KA24E (turbo) Oil weight used: Brad-Penn 10W-40 Synthetic or Natural: Non-Synthetic Oil Pressure at Idle when cold: 35psi Oil Pressure at Idle when hot: 19psi Highest oil pressure seen when cold (max RPM): 75psi (2000rpm) Highest oil pressure seen when hot (max RPM): 70psi (6500rpm) Turbo: No Main Clearance: .002" Rod Clearance: .0025"

I've never been a fan of the looks of the 1125R but I've always thought that Buell has been notable for going against the grain and not being afraid to try new things. Having a few friends that have ridden this beast, it really is silly fast. Liter bikes are quick and all but the bottom end on these Rotax engines cant be ignored. For the street, I think that the ability of a big twin to haul around a bike on the street is hard to beat. I kinda have a soft spot for the ol' Suzuki TL1000R, even if it was a bit of a tractor.

The body needs some TLC but that dash is nice! Good luck and keep us posted.