MAG58

Oh dear lord. The TVR Speed Six is IMO the most gorgeous I6 that has ever been produced, not to mention it was a beast. NSFW:

Do you have the Door panels? Condition/color and price?

Now run it in every car I have. When I tore down My L28 after 100k (due to an unrelated issue) all the parts in it still looked brand new. Worth every penny, IMO.

Man, that thing is CLEAN!

1. Welcome. 2. I see you have a Z32. Pics Now. 3. It truly depends on the locations of the rust. The floorboards are pretty easy to replace, imo compared to other parts of the car, and a rusty spare tire well is a good excuse for a fuel cell . There are some places on the car however that are an absolute PITA to replace due to the complex curves and the 2-7million different pieces of sheet metal coming together at one point. Flatt's right, pics and depth of rust are a must in determining the structural viability of a Z shell.

With only 50psi, you really should only spin your motor 5k, which I think is a little low. Perhaps a little thicker weight oil? In my freshly rebuilt L28 (.002 on the mains and .0025 on the rods, clearance) I run 10W-40 Brad-Penn Oil, and start at about 24psi at Idle (850rpm +/- 50) and up to about 50 at 2k and 70 at 3k.

You want it to be in series. A resistor in parallel cuts the resistance in half.

yep. When I hooked up my mechanical gauge, I just snagged the little adapter off of a spare mini block I had. Works like a charm. BTW, what are your readings?

A quick fix for gauge adaptors is go in to your favorite local auto parts store and ask for a gauge adaptor for a mini (Classic)/MG/Triumph etc. basically any old popular brit car. They usually have one on hand and it wont take as long to get one from summit.

240K roughly, kinda sorta, reminds me of my personal favorite datto, the 810.

IMO Diesel Oil's are meant for diesels. I used Rotella in my Mini before it cracked a head and I rebuilt the motor. Running the car for 5k and the engine was already entirely coated in sludge. Not worth the lack of detergents in the oil.

That's one big ol' honkin' stroke. So what's the rod length going to be and compression height? I feel this may kill the rev-happy nature of the RB that many have come to enjoy (why I decided to go back to the shorter stroke on my M104), but it may open a whole new facet of RB power.

So it's hideous, cant handle, and weighs slightly more than or moon? Figures.

Oh pepper jam, how I love thee. I've firmly convinced myself I've burt off any semblance to taste-buds with all the hot food I eat.

Storm Trooper was leading the way to protect lord vader...

Hmm... How much power could I make with your standard VQ and 35k? Over 450? I'd say so!

My current.... Civvie's can pull G's too. Oh the things I would do for a +/- 12G rated airplane, especially an edge.

PM's out.

Anything is only worth what someone will pay for it. Hell, some idio...er... some nice gentlemen offered me 10k for my beat to hell (before the resto) mini that ran on 4ish cylinders some of the time. If it wasn't the only thing I had to drive around I would take it in a hearbeat.

I'm not sure the market is big enough to have multiple companies to simply stock large quantities of custom hand welded manifolds. Well built parts like equal length manifolds are usually built to order simply because building many manifolds at once at that level wouldn't be feasable by most smaller mani companies.

I'm gonna throw my vote in... G35 (waits for flatty to chide me for not picking the merc). 350Z with two spare seats, all the goodies, and you can get them factory with Brembo brakes. What's not to love? The last three really aren't luxury cars, in my opinion. My next vote would be the volvo, though I'm not a fan of an awd turbo sedan that size with the wrong way facing engine. The mercs have just started to get their reliabilty back to where they were 15 years go and any cars built between 1997 when chrysler sold them will have reiliability issues (why I believe chrysler single-handedly attempted to kill mercedes). the 2.0-T sedan would be nice from Saab, since it's basically a subaru with pretty leather and what not. Everything else is pretty meh, I mean Audi's feel like they're carved out of lead and I don't think that much vehicle weight should be hauled around with the little 2.0L motor. BMW's are alright I guess, I mean I've never been a fan of them, maybe I've just never been a fan of the stereotypical Bimmer driver, who knows.

Get a C36AMG motor, some dbilas cams, megasquirt, and have a high strung daily driven 330-350hp beastie

Right on. I rebuilt my ZX 5speed in a weekend, and if there is a machine shop in the area, they shouldn't charge much at all to press a bearing on and press a bearing off. I believe that with all new bearings and synchros I was still below 200 bucks in the rebuild. Remember though that if you're rebuilding, the one thing that will do the most good is re-shimming all the gears back to factory tolerances. The years have probably opened up the clearances on the gears making shifting less direct and making the synchro's work harder to get the job done.

The majority of my budget for the rebuild was tied up in body work. Doing it all, probably there is 1200 in it. There are some definite defects (two pinhole size craters that I know of) but it does well for a daily driven car.