MAG58

You mean like the Ducati Desmotronic valvetrain that has been winning WSB and MotoGP for years? Or The Mercedes Straight 8 in the SLR way back in the day? Or variable lift control in the BMW Valvetronic?

There are college kids where I drive. There is no vehicle that can protect you from a pack of sorostitutes in their giant white Jeep Commander.

Stuff it with a yanmar diesel. Then it would be a joke, not a tragedy.

You have to remember the difference in methodology to 'restoration' between here in japan. In the home country, as much emphasis is not made on mechanical or structural sound-ness as it is on looking good visually. That means you may be purchasing a car that looks fantastic but in reality is quite a crap pile as far as rust and/or mechanicals go. It may not look as good at the get go, but if you get a car (from whatever country you like, Ethiopia for what it's worth) that may not look as clean but has as little rust as possible to start with, I think you'll find whatever direction you want to go with it much easier, and that you'll probably be happier in the long run. Just my .02

Rebuilding the non-rebuild able shafts, like I've done is a bit of a PITA. You have to hone the yoke out to the rebuild able u-joint size and machine the inside of the yoke to be the correct width for the joint (I was bored, don't judge me). Also, I think there is an older mercedes or bmw u-joint that would only require the reaming/honing but I cant for the life of me remember what it is.

What kind of amp is it? In any case you'll most likely nuke a set of 6x9's, but subwoofer amps usually aren't designed to amplify the frequency range that a 6x9 will see.

This is true, and I respect that. But my big beef isn't with people who don't understand rotaries, rather it's with people who spread lies about rotaries. Like any other concept, there are plenty of misconceptions about them and there tends to be a trend in people who believe that rotaries just suck and that's simply not the case. If you don't understand the rotary and stuff something else in, that's fine. It's when people say that they are horrible, unreliable engines that are useless is when I become annoyed. If someone doesn't understand it, just leave it at that, it isn't necessary to justify that the rotary is a horrible engine when it just isn't true. There is a very good reason that rotaries have been banned from a number of racing circles, and the few people that have respect enough to understand the magic Doritos's of doom are usually the ones that end up getting them banned .

This should help some... http://crower.com/misc/m_cat.shtml Scroll down to the rods section. Crower lists all the fun specs on all the rods they make for a multitude of rods, which should be all stock sizes unless otherwise noted. Also, Eagle makes SBC rods in the honda and IRL journal sizes.

Just FYI, if it's a ZX you need shocks for an S130, and they're not the same as S30's nor are they interchangeable. This could affect things.

I think the necessary question to ask here is why get a pre-75 S30 from Japan when you could just have a pre-75 S30 from the states and avoid all the pain and hassles and extra cost associated with getting it here?

Curses. TonyD again with the quick right answer. Quick Q, I've always understood it that, relative to the size of compressors used in the engines at hand (I have no idea how this would relate to industrial size compressors or the larger industrial turbos) that a larger turbo is usually more efficient than a smaller turbo. I've also been of the belief that the idea that smaller twins are better than singles is falty as even though it takes less energy to get a turbo spooled if it's smaller, it's also only receiving half the energy of a single larger turbo and that even though the pieces/parts are lighter the total sum of rotating mass between the two smaller turbos is actually not all that different from the one larger turbo, perhaps even higher. Is there any validity to this?

Straight Up. I've also got a pair of 6'' rounds in the kick panels up front but those are usually faded out quite a bit since in the Z cabin my 6x9's are plenty for providing good sound, surprisingly little rattle either even with the plastic pieces still in place.

I've put 6x9's in the 'trap doors' that are behind the seats (you're SOL here if you have a series one) they seem to do pretty well and give good sound.

What are your plans for a camshaft? Can you source one from John L's program as well? Then again... that may be a pretty MONSTER camshaft...

You go to IU? Why didn't I know this? We should go for a cruise once it thaws up here.

Only thing that's important. And nice use of your cooling fan, excellent setup overall, I hope you see some solid performance out of it. Is it on a stock bottom end?

Truth. 6'3" With Really long legs means my seat is pushed back as far as it would go. Though that is a very clean looking install even with flux-core.

I understand they share quite a bit (and am also aware of most of the difference) HOWEVER... It's a longer motor. Even though it should bolt up there would be zero clearance issues with the trunk lid or the rear of the car?

Oh Those! I was thinking of something else. Anywho yes, long screwdriver and being very ginger with it.

IIRC, Nissan and Subaru both source diffs from Fuji Heavy Industries (who makes Subaru) and even though they both share R160 and R180 diffs, they do not yet share the R200/R230 as I believe these are Nissan only parts.

I'm quoting this. Now.

So how long does this go until your Youtube Success can partially supplement your beer fund?

We don't fool around out here. It's serious business beard growin' in the rust belt.

You'll be pleased to know that I'm quite positive there is no drive train part that is equally or more complicated than the STi.