MAG58

???? How do things work on the west coast???? I'm very sure the sound of a cam lope and my webers have gotten me into a speeding ticket or two..

In response to Paul's post: 1.) I'd agree that on an engine that already has compromised harmonics in the horizontal plane, I'd like to limit it as much as possible. However, I remember seeing a picture somewhere showing the Ferrari F1 engine using that crank design, not like the standard 4 cyl or flat plane design, but rather with the journals 180 degrees from one another (as opposed to 180-360-180). 2.) I've c/p two separate products from Crower's online catalogue which you might find exciting. First is part # 00050 Custom-8620 Steel Billet camshaft w/ cast iron gear. This is not a regrind, as they all come with 65xxx part number, it is a custom billet camshaft. Second is a little infomercial from their crank cat. Materials :Crower's billet cranks utilize either 4340 or EN30B materials. It's your choice at Cower, we make what you want and need for your application. MFG: The capability of manufacturing from round bar allows Crower to produce steel billet crankshafts for just about any engine make to any desired stroke and horsepower needs. Depending on prices, I believe that crower is one of the few people left in the country that still does billet cams and cranks from bar stock. I think that Piper or Kent, both in the UK may as well, but I am not for sure, I've fallen out of the Mini game for a while

Mercedes tried that with DTM. Rules say you have to run a stock part # crankshaft and Mercedes said they just "bent" one of theirs into a flat plane config. That didn't fly too well with DTM officials. Unfortunately I don't believe it is that easy. I know for a fact the hardening and heat treating would be ruined due to the temperature you'd have to get it to make it malliable. I also would not trust a crankshaft that has been subjected to that kind of treatment. I'd imagine the grain structure would be compromised to the point of making it unusuable.

make sure if it's pigmented it wont run... I'm sure she would find that all of her pretty whites turned some non-white color she'd be super happy.

If you want to get high CR, I'd just go with an N47 head, that way you wont have to deal with shaving the head to up the CR and then having to re-shim the cams and lash pads to compensate for a thinner head. You technically don't have to run any specific kind of induction. There are strokers built that have worked over SU's and there are some that have full bore, ITB set-ups. It's really your preference. If it were me though, I really like the sound of trip side drafts. It's not the cheapest option but it does have infinite adjustability, and more response than other carb options. You could look into ITB's or just a Nissan plentum would work with Megasquirt or another EMS. As far as head porting, it really depends on what kind of power you're looking to make, what cam you're planning on running, and what your budget it. BRAAP and 1 Fast Z both professionally port these heads and either of them would be substantially more qualified to answer this question.

If you just want an Auto, it should be a pretty straight forward swap. I'm not familiar with many aussie companies so I couldn't tell you, but once you get your clearances figured out, it should be just as straight forward as any other V8. The hardest part about Japanese V8's is the manual but if you're avoiding that it shouldn't be difficult. If you know someone that can fabricate, the hardest parts will probably be wiring.

which elements? I'd agree on a tanning bed, or go to a welder/machine shop and have them hang it on their safety screens for a day or three, tons of UV from welding. Chemical treating them with a slightly acidic water (read: add some vinegar) submerged should do it. You'd be amazed what a dryer and a properly misused oven can do to stuff... Just make sure you're wife wont kill you for attacking her houshold appliances.

If you want to simulate the elements, the easiest way is toss it out in the elements for a few days... Seems logical to me.

This is true. "dry sleeves" (exhibit c) are sleeves that have no coolant flowing around them. Exhibit D or "wet sleeves" actually contact the coolant jacket and in most cases usually contain some sort of block guard integrated, mostly because it wouldn't make sense to put sleeves in a motor and not put the block guard in it (from a financial stand point) BACK to the topic at hand... There is actually a pretty strong Volvo following, if you guys are interested check out SwedSpeed, there are some pretty nice cars there with a ton of B series Modular information. http://www.swedespeed.com/

Here's a quick Cylinder-deck info... Realistically you can put motors into three classifications (with many variations and hybrids but let's keep this simple) of deck designs: Open, semi-open, and closed deck. First off, a closed deck block is, as it says, closed at the top of the "deck" of the engine, there is a good bit of material at the top of the block that bridges the cylinders, across the top of the water jacket, to the outsides of the block. A common example of this is just about every American V8 engine An open deck block, conversely has no support between the top of the cylinders and the outside of the block, essentially the coolant jacket turns the cylinders into a bit of an island. Most Honda's are open deck design, along with the VQ35 and the QR25 Finally, the "semi-open" deck block is a bit of a hybrid of the two, with a mostly open deck and just a few pieces of casting running from the cylinder walls to the outside of the water jacket. The Mitsu 4B11T in the EvoX adopted this design to replace the 4B6x design. All of these designs have strengths and weaknesses. An open deck block cannot be die cast (the die has to come out somewhere) and that's why a majority of modern motors are open deck. Die cast blocks can be cast thinner than sand cast blocks and an open deck allows more coolant flow and more consistent cooling along the top of the block area. But because these are not reinforced at the top, high power and/or high RPM's can cause the top of the cylinders to move around or float in the top of the block. A closed block offers more block support, and reduces the amount of movement the top of the cylinder can do. This is why many high horsepower Honda's an VQ's switch to sleeves that provide support to the top of the cylinder. Closed deck blocks are typically sand cast however, and thus heavier. The closed deck does restrict some coolant flow as well. Here's what a sleeved block looks like... Hope this helps

I'm pretty sure it's a continuation of Volvo's "modular" 6's, that all the 5's and 4's are also part of. They're pretty decent engines with all aluminum construction, and an open deck. They're short for a 6 too, since they're designed for FWD use. The bore and stroke are nearly identical to the 7M, IIRC.

After paging through the 03-08 350Z manuals, the Titan Manuals, and the 09GTR manual, It seems that all these motors have the same break in procedure that consists of 4000 RPM and below driving for 1200 miles and no full throttle driving until after the 1200 miles. I think that John is on the right track though. If these motors came with harder rings from the factory, they need to be run hard before the cylinders polish out and glaze over or they will never have a chance to lap into the cylinder walls. From doing race model engines that use DLC on some of the engine parts, I think that an improved break-in procedure would include heat cycling (i.e. pushing the motor hard for short periods of time separated by periods of light loading)

As an addendum to my first comment, I think that with enough money, anyone can get put past all that hard work and dedication. HOWEVER, I think that as a responsible seller, one at least needs to take a look at the seller if for no other reason than to stave off the darwin award. There are some seriously quick Z cars on this forum that can get a lot of people killed if it's thrown in the hands of someone with more money than intelligence. As much of an advocate as I am of population control, I'd like to not include people killing themselves, or more importantly someone innocent, in a car I built. Most motorcycle dealerships around here will NOT even consider selling you a 1000cc sport bike if it's your first, or even second bike. That's intelligent. My father sold his original GS1000 Suzuki to an 18 year old kid that found himself in a body cast a week later. Never again.

The L and VG do not share a similar bell housing, even if it did, the old N/A 5 speed wouldn't last too long. Grab a decent Z32 or Z31T5 and have some fun.

Agreed, I think they look very good. I drug out the drill gauge and took it to the top of my hats. It's in In and a 3/8 wouldn't quite fit through but 25/64 was perfect.

They're just little ol' things... The compressor housing sitting on top of this is out of a semi... Turbine side comparison...

It appears from my interwebz lurking that the VK& VQ engines have steel liners cast into the engine block. There is a lot of speculation around the QR, mostly because everyone is quick to blame engines and not owners and conversely quick to say that if an engine has a similar problem to an earlier engine design, it's obviously the same (harking back to the BMW engines with the problems with US gas) so I'm getting both lined steel and Nikasil. As far as oil consumption, it appears that Nissan engines came with very hard, high wear oil rings with a very specific break in procedure. This involved a period of high oil consumption that supposedly abated after the proper break in procedure. Fortunately, most people today probably aren't intelligent enough to read and follow instructions in a book, SO... they were not broken in properly and thus gained oil issues.

If you're looking for audi performance parts, check out 034Motorsport. They do alot of VW/Audi stuff, they did a 20V for the TopShopChallenge, it made something like 850hp.

I'd really like to see either the 6 or the 5 from Chevy in a Z, they seem to be really under-rated motors. The height could definately be an issue, how ever could you lay the motor over at an angle? I'm sure if you stood up a bunch of modern six's they'd sit up just as high. As for the smaller I5's, the Volvo seems like it could be fun, but isn't it an open deck motor? The Audi 20V motor would be sweet, looking around parts don't even fetch Audi prices any more.... and that sound...

It's my college DD. I drive my 71 to college and back to my home town (150mi round trip) to get some spare cash during the year or up to 4-500 round trip for a regatta. I've probably put close to 12k on it in just over a year, it regularly sees 70-80, and aside from the usually maint. that every car should get, it breaks down less than most other cars I've seen... And I haven't been easy on it at all, it's got Koni's, bigger springs, MSA Sway's and 4 piston front calipers, and I like to exercise them at all available opporotunities. 24mpg too... not bad really.

Which SU mani do you have? You'll have to block off the coolant lines and re-route them if yours go through the carbies. As for the Webers, I'm running a pair of 32/36's and the big problem I'm having is hesitation because of the gooseneck. If at all possible try and get ones with shallow or large diameter goosenecks so you don't get fuel falling out of atomization that I do. I'll go get my jets out here when i do some work here and a bit and tell you what jets I have on them.

Ya know, hindsight being 20/20 you probably should have asked this question before you hacked them out, but that said, how many wires were there? I'm with letitsnow it's probably the reverse and neutural switch. WAIT... it is a manual right?

pics would help this...

Unfortunately there are tons of useless individuals propping up the aftermarket currently. I see no difference from this person and someone who thinks he can put a turbeaux on his honda and run 9's off the bat or someone that likes japanese or american motors because "they're the best and everything else just isn't" The way the industry is going, there are probably way too many Z's in the hands of idiots as it is. I'd hope I wouldn't contribute my Z to this statistic.

Hmm, Compared to a VW New Beetle, I'll take the Z32. Any company that recommends pulling basically the entire front subframe (inner fenders included) with the motor attached just to change the timing belt is spastic. There was nothing on that car that was easy to work on, hell you have to pull the battery, and maybe the airbox if you're less flexible than me to get to the drivers side headlights. ANYWHO, back to the topic at hand... If you decide to go RB, I think you'll probably be a little disappointed if you're looking for anything that sees the streets. The RB has a super short stroke and was built as a touring car motor that sees lots of RPM's and isn't dragging around the *relative* lead sled that is the Z32. It's not going to have the bottom end grunt to pull you off the line the VG will and even though you may see bigger numbers at the top end, I think you'll find it will have a less midrange and bottom end. If you wanna do all the work to get an RB30 I think you'll recoup a lot of that but I've never ridden in or dealt with the RB30 conversions so I really cant tell you exactly how they behave. A JZ, if you don't do the massive, unstreetable turbo that makes the cool ____/ powerband, should give more drivability but you should probably measure up to make sure it's still within the work you want to do to ram that motor in there because it's big. I personally think that with the Z32, swaps are less common just because of the size of the engine bay, or lack thereof. With the VG it already looks like the shrink-wrapped the car around the motor, so putting anything bigger (demensionally) into the car would require a substantial amount of work.