MAG58

If you have a Weber manifold, it's called ITB's and I believe that under most circumstances, this is considered car porn...

They're the drop brackets that hold the rear of the lower arms in place on the rear suspension with the provision for a sway bar.

I did too much programming and graphing mathematics to use a Mac. My homebuilt desktop is a tank, only time it's crashed on me is when I'm clocking the processor way over what it, or my cooling system could handle while processing huge amounts of data. I've got CoD with a remote WinAmp and a dual screen for reading up on maps. Works without a hickup

Well it's not that I do not appreciate the motor, I just feel that like some other Japanese motors, they're blown out of proportion on how great they are. They don't really do something that a similar 3.0 DOHC straight six cant do. They heads aren't that spectacular as far as flow and it's a heavy motor. Just that a bunch of big name tuning companies have thrown a bunch of money at it, and like anything you throw enough money at, they made big money horsepower. Woo hoo... Don't get me wrong, it, like many Japanese engines, is very sturdy and has a gorgeous sound at RPM, I just don't think it's quite the God of a motor everyone thinks it is. Now the UZ, especially with the better flowing VVTi heads... What an engine! I love those things. They may not have the following that the little brother JZ's do but the balance and ability for that motor to spin 9k without flinching. But alas, I'm really interested in this, just to see how drivability is affected by this setup. Hopefully a set-up like this would do something that a big turbo high RPM JZ cant do... Get some torque UNDER the curve.

I'll be honest, I'm not a fan of the 2JZ for various reasons... but I'll be the first to concede that this is cool. Even though it wont fit in a Supra, the throttle response of that thing on ITB's should be almost like a rotary with a pretty impressive torque curve to boot. I'm watching.

1 fast Z is very wise about this, he's done a lot of research and first hand experience at trying to build big motors. I believe the point he's trying to make, about the welded in sleeves is that Nissan designed from the factory for the L series to have cast in cylinders, and since it makes logical engineering sense, I'm going to bet that these sleeves also serve a substantial amount of bracing for vibrations running down the length of the block. Josh, you're correct in saying that there were a lot of alloy motors, Fiats, Alpha's and many others that had wet sleeves in an alloy block that were held in solely by cylinder head tension, semi's even use this system. However, these blocks were all designed with this application in mind and as such the outer crankcase is strong enough to withstand the lateral forces within the engine. Unless the L's block has the sleeves welded in, there would be a big compromise of the lateral stiffness of the block since this block design was designed for cylinders to be cast in. Before you say it, I know there are dry sleeves in the L28 and variants, but there is still a cast in cylinder in the block.

I'm down for some brackets after a quote... PM Me

Do you still have the EGR attached? If it's not there and there's no block off plate, that's a pretty big gaping hole that leads directly into the runners. But if that was the case, I would be surprised if the thing ran well at all. When you tightened down the bolts were the washers that touch both the Intake and exhaust mani's (bottom part of the intake manifold) at any sort of an angle? I had this problem when I did a carb swap to put the L28 in my 71. I'd tighten the bolts all to spec and there was still a big gap in the bottom allowing the intake manifold to just float around. Also, which gasket are you running? I've had a few fel-pro gaskets that have really large holes on the intake side and if it's not put on just right you can get A little bit sticking out (the hole that is) also causing a vacuum leak.

As a pretty young guy here, I feel I have had the luck of having one of the best fathers possible to get into cars with. As a man that's slowly settling into his age (not by desire, I promise), he's probably forgotten more in a year than I'll learn in a lifetime. He raced semi-professionally for a good thirty years between the 60's and early 90's and I've learned to listen to what he say. He raced everything from auto-x to running a corvette clipping BBC times in his SBC vette at Sebring 12hrs. To this day I've yet to see a man that could set up a street car to handle like he could. We as a family were never super well off, so he always came up with unique ways to do it right with what we had. It's always fun to see new kids come to auto-x with an additute and a big turbo car just to get their clock cleaned by our little 75hp mini with a short little man behind the wheel. But he's been there to witness the radical transformations of many companies: The complete domination of Porche with their 917's and 962's, worked with racing beat for their turbo miata's and FC Rex's when we still lived down south. He always taught me the meaning of enough, that at the end of the day a club racer on a budget and a lot of dedication and skill can run right with, and beat, the big budget teams. Today, he's getting too far along to spend the energy to stay up with modern technology so when it comes to EFI or FI he'll let me throw some ideas around, but when it comes to making a car handle and just flat work, it's time for me to shut up and listen. If I can do half of what he's done by that age I'll be happy with myself. As it is, it is a great asset to the HBZ community to see the more experienced gentlemen like Paul, Ron, Tony, and countless others to give up years of experience and advice to the younger generations. It's you guys that have given me a lot of direction not only in Datsun's but carving a path out for us to follow in, and God willing, eventually make a way for ourselves. In my case, I just turned 20, and my mother tells me that if I work real hard, I might turn 5 next year

If you wanna to into the AF, join AFROTC. It's my 3rd year of college and the friends I have in it really like it. Your 4 years is paid for, you have more choice of what you want to do, you're usually like by enlisted more than academy guys, you could probably get an engineering degree and run the hangars and when you get out you'll have no debt, you'll probably actually be in good shape, with tons of experience and you could basically do what you wanted with your life, be an engineer or even start your own shop...

It could just be me, but I've always generally been against things that were designed to sound like something they weren't. I still believe that the best way to make an engine to sound like a flat plane v8 is to actually have a flat plane V8. I know it sounds silly, and maybe it's not the cheapest option... But it would be the the best.... And since a flat plane motor is essentially two 4 cylinders 90 deg out of phase, perhaps finding a set of single/twin cam heads with the same bore spacing would simplify the cam process... And after I said this, now I have to go explore how possible this is... off to the interwebz...

No pictures?

At any decent boost pressures, the T28 will successfully turn itself solely into a hot-air blower, just creating lots and lots of heat and very little pressure and you'll probably just run the turbo right off the map. 2.8L+ is a bit for a non low pressure turbo setup (<9 psi)

Well aside from how deep your pockets are, the real question is what would you want it used for? If money was no object I still wouldn't go above about 91mm. That's what a Mercedes C36 AMG has for a bore. It has the same bore spacing as the L28 and it's cylinder walls are so thin that there is no overbore for the motor, just scrap the block. You also have to consider having a HG made to support such a large bore along with getting pistons to stuff in those giant holes. At this point wouldn't it seem easier to get a stroker crank made with something bigger than a V07 crank? While you're at it you could have it fully counter weighted. As oversquare as a 89mm L series already is, you'd run out of deck height for an even poor conrod to stroke ratio way before you even get close to a square motor. You'll have more cylinder thickness for more compression/boost/whatever mystery power producers you have schemed. If you're looking for a huge bore motor for a still high displacement, short stroke beast, you still have to deal with an L series crankshaft that's 4 counter weights shy of not coming apart at 8500+

Aw, what happened to the vise-grip steering wheel? But in all seriousness, this looks like it's going to be a very well executed build, I'm going to be very excited to see the final results.

I see hearts!!!!!

Some people actually use wiper fluid. There was a reason, but it has since eclipsed me so I'm not gonna chip in anything there, but looking at the lines they use I can safely say that at any appreciable boost level, there will not be enough pressure or flow provided by that little pump to maintain a constant, correct flow into the intake air charge, especially if you plumb it into the pressurized side of the intake. At least not enough for me to trust any moderately pricey motor build on.

If you've already replaced the HG and haven't even driven it much there is a pretty good chance you have a cracked head. Driving a car with a cracked head will only lead to more broken parts... very quickly.

Yes, if your head was cracked it could be dye tested, but only on the outside to check for cracks, otherwise it would have to be pressure tested for cracks.

Let's hope not. Just do all that painful work to get to the clutch, take off the clutch, remove plate, reverse steps. Go play. But... before you go through that agonizing task, take the starters and make sure the bendix's check out. That's the little clutch that moves the starter gear to engage the ring gear.

Very true. Then I can make a FFR GTM if I had the entire donor car... Anywho, I saw an anchor point that made me think. How strong is this design? It would appear with just those bends welded that the cage could move vertically with the mount flexing, perhaps causing it to shear? http://www.pfadtracing.com/photos/showfull.php?photo=553

Yep, I'm gonna guess the HG. It may not be completely failed but it's packing up for vacation. If you only have a light bit of coolant in your oil I'd say the majority of it is seeping into the cylinders and getting burned off, turned to steam really, as you drive.

Here's my cheap (yea right) "practical" DD. The new one is a BMW so I say it's close enough First car I ever built, Frame off, when I was 15... She's an evil little beastie And the Recaro's are out of an older BMW, so it counts...

Thanks to a quick scientific article I googled, it appears that about 140 seems to be a good limit to car temps in 90 degree weather. http://www.injuryprevention.org/states/la/hotcars/hotcars.htm