JSM

Because all said and done it's about 10% going to ebay. I'd also wager to say those are not cheap to ship. Edit: This was the last and only item I sold last month, $20.50 Shouldn't be much right? 10.195% !

Hey John, What about labor? My thinking is swaping the stub axles is a lot of work. If the bearings are good in the stubs of the 280z, why not? Strut tube thickness aside, isn't the only difference the top hat height? I think stock 280z springs may be a little longer too, but don't recall? OP didn't state his plans, coil overs, etc., so not sure.

I guess it depends on how many acres his front yard is! Few hundred? Yeah get it for sure. I'd go one step farther. See if you can cust his yard once a month /week and see if you can work on it there! You never know unless you ask.

1. Put a good missing fuse 2. Check continuity on the others 3. Try it and see where your at

Very luck on the liner and turbo. Got to watch the water with you intake so low. No rain driving or very little.

PM sent.

From any future engine swap, I thought you all had to have pre 75 year cars? Unless of course you put all the emissions from the year motor that you install on the car and it has to be newer, not older.

It's all good. We all have our strenghts and weaknesses. Body work is definitely not my strength, yikes! At least we can edit pics and draw arrows to stuff. Imagine trying to explain body work like this!

What's strange is you say your car is a 75 and the write up on upgrading only shows 1 fusible link block, but yours has two blocks? Either way, you have to have a fuse there or power will not go through the harness. If it continues to blow the fuse when you put a fuse on it, you have a dead short somewhere, meaning a postive wire off that circuit is touching negative ground somewhere in the car. This issue asside, you may want to find a good used harness and replace the current one if you keep having issues. Who knows what the previous owner has done. Or trace back every wire through the FSM wiring diagram. There's not that many wires since your running carbs. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/75_280z_wiring.pdf

Did you do a continuity check on the fuses (wires) in the red circles? The ones with wire spades on them, that the yellow arrows are pointing to. Is there a wire (fuse) missing where the ? mark is in the top circle that drew in? There needs to be a wire there. There should be two wires on the bottom circle. You should be testing 4 fuses total.

These are your two fuseable link blocks. They are normally bolted to the Engine side compartment. You've got quite a mess there. You also have some strange box connected to the block which may be some type of fuse? Check the continuity of the wires (Fuses) between each pole they are connected too. If you don't get connectivity replace it. EDIT: What is the plug above the top Red cirlce for?

Yeah, those Florida guys are real weird! Congrats! I've never seen a rotary before in any JY here or in the Central Florida area. There always shells.

The HP laptop I have, had both the CPU and GPU super heated to reflow the solder. My tech guy doesn't have a station that can reflow them correctly. Yes, it's a risk, but I bought the laptop for $5 at a garage sale so no big deal. New motherboard was in the $300 plus range. Works fine now.

For all you laptop users out there, get in the habit of taking you laptop into the garage (shut of of course) and gently reverse blow air through the main CPU fan to get all the dust out. Reverse meaning blow air into where the heat comes out first. I then blow both directions both in and out and do the enitre laptop. Alot of the newer laptops fans share both CPU and GPU. If your using your laptop and the screen go's white, shuts off or reboots frequently try this first before spending money having someone look at your PC. Heat is bad for these things. Get in the habit of doing this at least once a year. I just picked up my second newer laptop out of the trash and this is all I did after it kept white screening on me. This one even had the Best Buy repair sticker on it where I'm sure they said it wasn't worth fixing! For that matter do it to you towers too. You will be shocked at what accumulates in there.

Yeah, lots of things... sigh...

The original 75 should have came with them. Unless during the 260z swap with carbs they ripped all the FI stuff out. Still though they would need to be there, somewhere unless they hardwired without fuses. Strange. I thought I put this in my first post. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html

Did you check all the fusible links in front of the battery? This is a good write up with pics to show how to upgrade. You can also use this to determine if any are bad with a simple ohm meter from wal-mart.

Yep, that's where I was also and had nice paint. My Silver Z came with them which was nice. Man I miss that car. I did have a few people snub the car because of the flares. I'd be curious if there were any negative impact on the value of the car.

It's all up to you. If your car has a mint paint job maybe not. Again your choice. If you don't mind cutting up the rear tire wells to do it properly and have fair to poor paint, do it. But going back to stock is very difficult.

I have 2 sets both from 77 280z's. $99 plus shipping. How soon do you need them?

Juan, I'm not sure I understand that last sentence? What do you need? Stock 240z Stub axle where the wheel bolts to is 25 spline. Stock 280z Stub axle where the wheel bolts to is 27 spline. If you've not swaped in the 280z's I sold you then you still have 25 spline in the car.

What!? What did you do to the first ones I sold you? I have 2 more sets, but I have to pull them.

I'm not a fan of the violin in the video, however, his playing is nice. It's just not for me. Otherwise top notch.

I think it's age related!

Never mind. Pulled the window and rust is coming through like yours. Not as bad but on it's way. I do have the tank area, but I have to find it.