JSM

http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/wcrcvhalfshaftaxlekit.pdf

So what was the outcome? If the plugs are fowled it may only relate to your issue. You will still have to sort out why your running rich.

Welcome! If it is hose touching the header yes that is bad. Do not plug that hose in anyway. Put an air filter on it or preferably hook it back up to the intake as intended.

If it's black your running to rich, not lean. I'd check your plugs first. Likely they are fowled causing the issue your having because it's not getting burned. I'm assuming carbs???

Depends on how much you drive it. I have full coverage insured for 10K through Hagerty. $125 a year w/ a 5K limit in milage.

What r you running in HP range?

LOL that was great, I did Barack Obama as the name!

Is it running rich? I'm guaging stock electronics, are all of you water temp sensors good? I was under the distinct impression stock electronics had to have all that hooked up properly to work. Any chance you Autometer WT gauge may be the issue?

If the shifter is attached to the trany try manually shifting it to see how many gears it has. You would be better on waiting, if you really want a 5 speed, then buying this and not being sure.

Here is a pic of mine. Each carb may be different.

This morning I did this and it worked like a charm: 85 300zx Turbo 1. Remove wheel 2. Remove caliper and pads 3. Remove caliper bracket 4. Remove grease cap, cotor pin and nut 5. Remove hub and rotor as one piece 6. Remove 5 bolts holding rotor on hub 7. Place hub and rotor unit back on car and snug nut 8. Use Big hammer and hit rotor off, took good amount of wacks w/ at least a 5lb hammer 9. Pull hub nut back offand remove hub and rotor again 10. On one side the roto fell right off, the other took one small wack to get it off.

John, your the best. I sincerely appreciate the effort and sacrifice. Best of luck with your build.

NM, I probably shouldn't post that.

What are prices for 5 speeds in your local JY? I would verify if it is a 5 speed as well.

Did you find your springs?

The cable housing bolt to the side of the carb. The cable itself goes through the choke arm. These aren't the best pics but may help. These came off hybrid here:

Sorry, you're right, they only had the 82, but that is no longer there.

It was here: http://carfiche.com/manuals023/cars/ But looks to no longer be available.

You did get the heat sheild attached to the intake off right? You'll have a heck of time getting to the nuts with this still on.

Do you have the domed (rounded) SU's or the true 73 flat top SU's?

Courious on removing the hubs at the junkyard. Will this work? Will I have enough room? 1. Remove wheel 2. Remove caliper and pads 3. Remove 4 bolts that hold rotor on (if room permits) 4. Use Big hammer to get rotor off, while hub is still on car 5. Remove grease cap, cotor pin and nut 6. Pull hub off Being at the junkyard I don't care about the car. Was curious if this could cause any damage to the hub itself?

Do you have writeup on your foam procedure / fiberglassing method? Or something on the net you used? Where do you get that foam and what does it go for? Your finished fiberglass piece, was that the final product from the original glass work or was the original glass used to just make the mold, then you made another one from the mold? Sorry if the questions seem dumb. I've been here a few years and can't recall seeing a thread like this before, very nice work!

You need to look at you exhaust manifold as well. Some of the exahust nuts share or hold the Intake manifold on also. Is it in the car or out? You need to feel around for them and use a flashlight. Yes it is an F54 block.