fastzcars

That is beautiful stuff MONZTER! I love the design and machine work! well done!!!!!

You can try DP racing, Don's been in the Z business for a LONG LONG time. He's knows his stuff!!! I'm sure he can set you up as far as redrilling and the spacer. But he's here in southern california. Here's his phone number 714-892-1513 and web link. Even though his web page doesn't show them, he's got many different rotor hats in stock. I've been to his shop!!! http://designproductsracing.com/

There should be about 50 to 60 thousands clearance ( thats about the thickness of a penny) between the throw out bearing and the clutch fingers. You usually adjust that clearance with the fork ball pivot. Heres a link that might explain better what i'm talking about>http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/files/Clutch_Linkage_Installation_Tips.pdf

I agree I have the ones that Dat260 have pictured. It looks like the disc mount from the front and are held in place by the brake caliper and the wheel/lugs.

Thanks for the interest guys! I stand corrected! :redface:Yup you guys are right, the +28's would have been better! I had bought +17 all around but found they were sticking out too far in the front. I then ordered the +38's based on info that the 300zx 5 lug front hub's pushed the wheels out 3/4 inch. Well it turned out that I needed 10 more millimeters to space out the wheels just right! But by then I had already mounted the tires and couldn't exchange the wheels! I redrilled my MM rear stub axel to 5 lug. And yes the fenders are rolled and the only issue I have is the rear tires do rub ever so slightly on track use. But on the street NO rubbing!

Heres a better pix of my wheels, drag DR-31 17x9's all around .-17 offset rear, and -38 front with 10 mm spacers in front only. Tires are Kuhmo's MX 245x40x17 front and 255x40x17 rear .

Yes there is a gap before you torque the clutch down. That's why you torque in a "star" pattern to evenly spread the load of the clutch face to the flywheel as to not to distort the clutch. And then only in gradual increments of 10 ft/lbs at a time until the desired/required torque to the bolts.

Heres a new updated look of my car. Gunmetal gray Drag DR31 17x9 all around. +17 mm offset rear and +38 mm front with a 7 mm spacer on the fronts only. I should have gotten the +28mm for the fronts, that way I wouldn't need the spacers:(. One more bit of info, I have the Z31 5 lug hub conversion with "Design products racing" disc/hats. It's a VERY tight fit! Coilover's all around with 1/8 inch clearance all around! I even had to "clearance" my muffler for them to fit!

Now that is a clean install Savage42! Love it!

I was about to suggest you test fit everything BEFORE you powder coat. There are so many variations out there. I guess I was too late. But they sure look good!

Are you looking for the wilwood 2 piston style kit? I have the bracket and the disc, all you need is th caliper and the hose, and you can get that from summit racing.

I had something similar to what you had. I thought it was the wheel bearing, it turned out to be a loose Gland nut holding the strut insert! Feels the same as a loose wheel bearing!

I have a Wieand stealth that i never used. It's the older version non air gap style. how about the same price 100?

Yes and no. Yes that they are interchangible IF you get there corresponding mounting bushings/doughnuts. The 240 and early 260's racks have a smaller O.D. on the mounting pads thus the bushing's are thicker. The late 260 and 280's are larger and so the bushings are thinner. You just have to get the right bushings for the racks. BTW I have a rebuilt rack That I'm not using any longer. PM me if your interested.

Nice follow up! I will take some measurements to verify my findings. This is great info for a sticky! I will report back over the weekend!

On this one note, I did just did the conversion with the 300zx front hubs and it indeed offset the disc 3/4" inch but not the wheel. The wheel offset I needed was a 28 mm on a 17x9 wheel ! just making a note of it! So in the end I have 2 different offsets in front and back. the rears are 17mm and the fronts are 38 with a 10mm spacer! all wheels are 17x9's

Jay260, cockerstar is right, I think the key word is "older" mustangs from the mid 60's to the mid 70's they are 4x4.5 The newer mustangs I think from 79 on do have 4x4.25. Why the change I don't know?

I can't believe it's been that long since I've seen your car at Nelson's place! How time flies! And it looks as clean as I thought it would! Great car, congrats! Oh and thanks for the update!

It depends on the rack that was used. The new rack may have more liner travel so the wheels/tires may be hitting the frame rail and or the tension control rods! I have that problem. I just have to learn not to turn the wheel so far when I make a 3 point turn. There was a post of a person that made some steering stops that bolted to the front LCA. Good luck!

I have a rechromed front 73 bumper that I never installed! I had all the holes filled in! Look's like a new bumper! It cost 100 to rechrome plus the part, I'll let is for the price of the chroming alone. Pm me if your interested

Glad you found it! But at thoughs high temps, I would agree with Dr Hunt, power will be down no matter what! Good luck on friday!

I second Rucuso1, and double check to make sure the throttle blades are opening all the way. I gained 20 hp on the dyno on that one! :

You'll probably get approx 340 rwhp, at that 400 crank hp.

I'm stoked guys! I just got notice that my car is in one of this years MSA's autox videos on there website! It's on the first video, it's the silver 240z! Heres the link. http://www.zcarparts.com/shows_DE.html Who saids V8 Z's don't handle well! LOL!:)

I'm doing the Z31 5 lug hub conversion. Doy you have any updates as to what size spacer was needed? I've got conflicting info some say 3/4" and other's say 35mm? That's 15mm difference! Any info would be great!