Challenger

AFM is the box attached to the tube coming off of your TB. It measures the amount of air coming into the engine via a spring loaded flap. 250-270 rwhp is close to 300 flywheel. Im not sure on numbers but Im pretty sure thats getting close/past the stock electronics abilities. (without major modifications/rigging) But dont take my word for it.

Good man! Getting a Dodge. I drove a friends 98 Cummins, that was my first turbo drive. It was very nice. You check with Dave Smith?

I didnt drive it to school. I switched cars just in case. But yeah Im out at SFCC. I drove down to the general store and got the gauges after school in the ZX. Tried to call you but it says the number isnt available due to phone company issues... Also, had to go move my car to let my dad out and went to check the TB stop screw since the car wasnt idleing unless you gave it a little gas. I hadnt put on a locking nut to keep the screw in place thinking it would be ok turns out it was probably moving which would over time close my TB completely, making the car not idle. Hopefully that was part of my problem. Im gonna replace the screw and make sure it doesnt work itself loose.

By seconds you mean 3 minutes....

First off take a look at the link in my sig. Itll really help you out. :) Also Im pretty sure this will either be deleted or moved to the tool shed so heres my quick comments. Hopefully they help you and get you on your way. But I will give you some hints and info to think about. If your wanting to go to a larger turbine I assume your wanting to run more than about 13 psi or so ?(from what Ive read thats where the stock turbo poops out) If so youll be wanting to upgrade your electronics to accomodate the extra air your engine is ingesting with extra fuel. In that case your main needs will be the exhaust manifold, turbo, turbo oil lines, larger injectors, and then I assume youd run an intercooler so all the related stuff for that. (bov, piping, intercooler, couplers) Also to replace the original computer, megasquirt or some other standalone with all the accesories needed, search for more details. If you end up using the stock electronics and stock turbo, youll need again the parts mentioned above minus the standalone and bigger injectors. The turbo ecu, engine harness, afm, injectors, coil/ignitor, and downpipe. There are a few more tid bits needed but im sure you can find those with the search button.. Also in both cases youll need to consider your compression ratio. I assume your engine has a p79 with flattops. Many na -> turbo engines with the original NA compression will have trouble with detonation if you dont treat the engine right, aka fuel, timing, air temperatures, etc. So being that you want a t3/t4 again you probably arent wanting to run 5 or 6 psi. Look into getting a n42/f54 block with dished pistons, and possibly a p90/a head. Anyways, a few terms to search for... turbo swap, na turbo, l28et, megasquirt, standalone, upgrade turbo, p90, high compression turbo, etc. Be creative and choose different words and youll get better/worse results. Its all been discussed and its all there. Just a matter of finding it.

Thanks for the link. $2000... I assume they cut up stock cranks and reweld them for increased stroke? Ill email them...

Check the pythons for part numbers. I dont know if python makes stock injectors but they may. If they are the correct replacements then youll be fine. If theyre like 440's or something you have a problem.... So the blue and blacks are all pythons? Curious if theyre the same injectors. Also if you didnt know the browns could either be stock or a replacement from shucks or napa. Ive seen new replacements from shucks that are basically identical to the stock brown ones.

Ahahahahah, funniest thing Ive seen for a long time!

So I assume everyone read the whole thing, yes? I printed it out and read it as I fell asleep. Its better than any novel.

Little update, started to drive it to school this morning. Didnt get far and it just completely died, I gave it a little gas nothing happened. I just slowly came to a stop. Jumped out to check things and hopped back in turned the key and it started... ended up driving it about 10 miles or so and didnt have to much trouble, doesnt want to idle so Id have to keep the RPMs up as I came to a stop. As for the first incident I blame the ignition system for some reason, just a hunch. But whatever it is, Im pretty sure its electronics, a very broad area. Also I was wanting to get a boost and fuel pressure gauge to know if Im getting enough fuel pressure and I wasnt really liking the stock gauge, Id like to be able to see it in PSI rather than mm.HG X 100 or whatever it is. Ended up getting an equus boost gauge and autometer fuel pressure gauge. Both are 2 inch, boost goes from 30 in.hg to 20 psi and the fuel gauge goes to 100, so Ill be fine for quite a while unless I go to diesel or direct injection. Next thing on the list is to get those mounted, get a new bypass valve (just need to screw in the new one and put the hose on) and then get a new fitting for the transmission vacume signal. Its kind of annoying cruising along at 3500 doing 30.... Id like to do these things now but I have a calc and physics test in a couple days...

I meant for my 78, s30 not s130. Thanks

Did a couple things today.. I had shaved the one port on the j pipe assuming I wouldnt need it... decided to just scrap the BOV for good and just use the stock bypass valve. So I needed a new port. Welded on the orignal 90 degree elbow that goes on top of the TB. Looks great and makes the tube from it to the bypass valve in runner 4 basically strait. Just need to get a new bypass valve since I "modified" the valve into basically a plug for the hole.. It still isnt running perfect but it still runs. Its shifting weird since I pulled off one of the vacume lines going to the trans. Need to find a new bung so I can plug it back in.

I was gonna say.... what was the problem with the seller. Seems like someone has had a problem with a seller before...

Nice! My uncle has a black testarossa. They live over in Seattle so I dont really get to see it much. Last time I saw it was like 7-8 years ago.

Sent you a PM. You can see it on the intake on runner 4. Blocked is pointing to it also.

I need the small bypass valve that screws into the base of runner 4 on the turbo intakes. Thanks

FYI most people dont see 11110-20p00 and think oh he means "rear sump 200zr rb20det oil pan". Better title will probably help.

Yeah I think hes long gone...

Didnt you mention once there were L series pushing past even 3.2 liters? I remember there was a thread talking about a guy wanting to make a 3.5 liter L series.

No one mentioned dohc. Read this. Really consider what is mentioned in the thread. Especially the part about slowly building up power. Not spending $20k on a motor and blowing it up. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128905&highlight=l28et+500

Do you mean the VCM? The thing attached to the afm? If so I did remove the lines from that. It went into the smaller fitting (coming out the side) on the left bung in the picture. Im talking about the larger fitting. A metal line (not the small ones that run along the side of the intake) goes down towards the transmission and into the trans tunnel.

Is there an arita speed s30 gnose? Ive only seen the ZX version sold by 280zforce.

Thats insane! I dont know what to say. Nice work!

I had a vacume leak on one of the fittings on my intake manifold. Its the one pictured to the left of the brake booster tube. I pulled off the metal tube and rubber connector that was on it and plugged the hole to see if my car would run any better (troubleshooting engine problems) I took it for a drive and now it takes a long time to shift and I find myself cruising at 3000 rpm sometime doing say 30-35 mph.. It also seems to shift alot harder, alot crisper shifts. Does the auto transmission rely partially on a vacume signal to tell when to shift up, down, etc? I was having a hard time tracing where the metal line went and am kind of curious what it did... Thanks BTW this is on my 81 turbo automatic.