garvice

I saw those a while back and thought, WOW, that is awesome. Then I saw the price 14100 PDM32 - POWER DISTRIBUTION MODULE AU$ 4,620.00 14102 PDM16 - POWER DISTRIBUTION MODULE AU$ 2,650.00 I would love one of these, but i think I will stick to fuses at those prices.

Just make sure you make enough to pay for the speeding fines and tires. HA.

Guys, I upgraded the look. Check out the details here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1099864#post1099864

Ok, at the start of the year I bought an electronic VDO tacho to go with my new computer. I bought it because it looked like the closest font to the original tacho. I then proceeded to pull it apart so that I could add indicators to the face. You can see that thread here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143337 This is what it looked like As stated in the previous thread, I was happy with the new tacho, but thought that I could do better with matching the type face. This was the result. If you like what you see then keep reading for the details. Ok, so you like what you see. What I liked about the VDO tacho was that the light shun through the perspex face rather then passing around the edges like the original. So I dismantled the tacho again and found that the VDO tacho face was a thin (about 1mm) plastic sheet that was screen printed and glued to the 3mm perspex tacho. So I decided that I could replicate this. I first started with OHT (Over head Transparency) sheets, but I couldn't get the black, black enough to stop the light. Several sheets helped, but got hard to work with, and using a bubble jet printer wasn't going to last long in the sun. So with the help of a member on here and auszcar "sexual_sushi" (Yeah I know, gay name, but he's cool). He redrew my scanned tacho and got them printed by a professional photo lab. I then put a OHT copy behind a Photo copy and Double sided taped them to the tacho. I also took the hand (made of clear perspex with an orange paint on the bottom) and sanded the orange off the bottom to paint white. OHT PHOTO IN CAR NIGHT PHOTO (See the difference in illumination between original speedo and new tacho, also note the redline lights up) This one shows the lights and hand better (first print) So, am I done? No, not yet. There are a few other things that I am going to work on. First is that the face isn't as matt as I wanted (might try some matt clear coat). Second, have to move the tacho down a little, also got to block out the light coming through the Kanto text down the bottom, move the indicators a little and find my round hand cover with chrome surround.

Just wait till you lower it and add wide tires to it. They you will know what people are talking about. I think it is fine once you have some speed up, but at car park speeds or with people autox I can see why people would want power steering.

^ Only if your trying to build a porsche

I didn't know that it was possible to make the light output from an s30 worse. That is hideous!

Ok, update. First off, if anyone thinks this thread is getting clogged up with my garbage, I will move this conversation onto a new thread. I checked my timing today. My block has 0, 10 & 20 deg marks on the block (America's passenger side) and my pulley has three marks (all line up with 0, 10 & 20 at idle) and a notch in the pulley which is further back (in the retarded region). The way I am reading it is that the middle mark is my timing mark and that sits on 10 deg at idle (which is what the computer is programmed at). I am having a hard time finding a photo of a two pulley harmonic balancer that shows the marks and the notch, but I think the notch is unrelated. I do not have a wideband, although the tuner was using one (in exhaust pipe) when tuning the car. I'll give my tuner a call and see about increasing the timing. Thanks for everyones comments/suggestions.

CR: I have a P54 block, dished pistons, P90 head and a stock gasket. Using the Ozdat engine builder I think that puts me around 7.353:1. Also run with 98 octane (available everywhere down here). Not sure what the temperatures are like, but it sure doesn't feel like it falls flat on it's face. I am not running from the tuner though, he is well worth his time/money, he just didn't want to find the limit of my unknown engine on the day before christmas. Well that sucks, I was hoping I could just up the timing when I was out at the drags next time to see what would happen. I will have to have a chat with the tuner and see if the computer will compensate. I will get out today and find the base timing before I decide to go anywhere from there. Thanks for all your help guys, its nice to be able to consult with people who have similar engine packages (Not a whole lot of us with a turbo L28 down here). Oh yeah, anyone able to tell me the answer to this previous question? If I do up the timing and go too far, what are the consequences. Is it limited to blown head gasket or can more serious damage occur?

Mmm, food for thought. The guy that tuned my car was a bit uneasy about taking the timing too far. Might get a timing light on the engine to see where my base is before I go any further. I am assuming it is set at 0 (My idle timing is 10deg in computer), but might check it. One other question guys. I am assuming that when changing the timing, the A/F ratios don't change as your still putting the same amount of air and fuel in and just changing at a different time. So I should be able to up my timing without fiddling with the injector tables. Is this correct? Make that two questions. If I do up the timing and go too far, what are the consequences. Is it limited to blown head gasket or can more serious damage occur? Cheers.

OK, timing figures. I am running up to 38deg off boost - 100 to 150kpa max 16deg - 150 to 200kpa this drops linearly to 13deg - above 200kpa it is basically 10deg

^ Don't have much time to respond to the above, so I will do some more research after work. All assumptions other then wheel size are pretty much spot on. I have a 12.8" radius. So even less torque at the engine using your calc. When I was having the car tuned it was running in the 0.84 - 0.9 (max power A/R range) region. So if the fuel is in the right region, am I right in assuming the only other thing that may be hindering my power is the timing curve? I will post some timing figures tonight.

If you start all over at least you will know the wiring back the front. I feel rewiring my engine harness was the best thing I could have done. Different application then you though.

I can think of a reason. They started with 6 carbs (complete failure), then they started getting a bit smarter with the fuel delivery and managed a best of 13mpg. ARGH! Then when they brought out the "High Efficiency" model they got a best of 16mpg. HA, HA, HA. What a joke, maybe with a real computer you could make a car that can actually make it between service stations, but it wouldn't be by using the stock engine controls.

But he could pull his whole house behind him with the tractor engine! Maybe if he had a 20 speed transmission he would be ok. HA.

I think you meant right side.

I like hot stuff going in, but I hate it coming out. Good luck Paul, if it burnt a lot going in, it is going to cane coming out. Might try putting a roll of paper in the fridge before hand.

Phil, is your front cable bracket routed through your distributor wires? Are you going to get rid of the distributor? or move the bracket?

I reckon he can get lower and use more of his side wall. HA, yeah right! I reckon the guys putting tires on Rossi's rims wonder how he gets gutter rash on a motorbike wheel.

Great, glad to see your on top of it.

Glad I could help.

Mate, I am a bit worried about you "Big exhaust, tranny modification". The width of the tunnel makes it hard to fit a decent seat in as it is. By modifying the tunnel like that, you might have trouble fitting anything but existing seats (most new seats will require lower mounts as you don't sink into the seats).

He got his bat and ball and went home. No seriously though, he has decided that RB30 is the way to go. I think he still planned on finishing the manifold and selling it. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,4426.0.html

Not sure what pictures you are exactly after. Let me know if I can get better ones for you.

Was that a request for a photo, or an answer to my question?