z240

I have one that I would part with and I'm willing to crate it and ship to you. Please contact me at z240@shaw.ca to discuss details.

These are the 2" so called Jag SU's, correct? I have a set. Somewhere. Send me a note to z240@shaw.ca and I'll send you back some pictures.

Correct-a-mundo

Tough job with anything other than child hands. Yes it will be easy once the heater control panel is out, but that thing is a challenge all its own as well. There are four control cables to remove first, two on each side, that are each lots of fun to release from their hold downs.

ok then, I dug it out, checked it out, all the threads are fine, even the gland nut spins right in. Drop me a email to z240@shaw.ca and I'll send a couple more pics. I'll weight and box and send you the shipping estimate. Let me know your zip to the email or PM.

Yes a rusty old shock tube can get really stuck in there. Before you give up completely, drill a hole in the bottom of the strut tube and use a drift/punch and BFH to drive the old shock out if you haven't tried that already. You can always weld up the hole later, but will minimal affect on strength if left as is. I'd offer a strut but I'm too far away to make it practical shipping $$ wise, so I'd thought I offer advice instead.

Not S30, not even similar. Pretty sure not s130 either. Never seen nothing like this

Let's be clear about this me thing. Crank case venting is very important to your engine oil health and longevity. How you do it is up to you and yes it involves oil mist that would be nice to catch or separate.

280/260 pedal boxes have two steering column mount holes, 240's have four as you correctly surmized. I think you will have a great deal of trouble getting the RHD box in your 240.

Beans33, there are at least four unique door panels that are not interchangable between all the s30 years. Please put some details of which s30 you have in your signature so we can actually help. Those 2+2 panels will take a bunch of splicing and cutting and drilling to even sorta work on a 71 for example.

I know its tempting to keep that in there, but I HIGHLY recommend you replace that line with the correct line nut size ASAP!!! Brakes are not something you want to loose when driving. It will happen fast and you take the lives of others in your hands with this decision. This is WAY too important to take short cuts here!

Assuming you got the correct 10 x 1mm threaded nut on that hard line, and not the very very close (and slightly smaller OD) 3/8-24 SAE nut, then it having some play until it's tight is normal. The threads have nothing to do with the seal, its the female cone at the end of the line, that mates metal to metal with the male matching cone in the caliper that creates the seal. The nut just provides the push to press them together. Double check those thread dimensions though, proper 10x1 really has no play in the nut as you thread it in.

PM sent. Let me know when you get a chance. Thanks Jim

Tolerate, send me an email to z240@shaw.ca and I'll show you what I have. They are two resistors. Full speed bypasses them both, then med and low are one or both resistors.

CFM runs your tools, pressure just moves it along. Get the biggest one you can afford, fit and stand the noise from.

Nothing moves directly. Nothing in common left to right side other than the paint, and maybe some grease. There are four lovely 10 x 1.5 mounting holes in a nice squarish pattern on the drivers side that was for the air pump or later A/C bracket. Since you're having to build a bracket from scratch, nows the time to build a bracket to use a nice big amp GM 1 wire alternator.

One of the members over on classic z car is doing a test fit of a leather dash cover with promises to share all that he finds. He hasn't said who it is yet. Could be the same vendor. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50755-leather-dash-cover-installation/?hl=dash

Motor speed control by increasing resistance hence lowering voltage to slow the motor. The fan switch just controls which of the two resistors are put in series with the motor. One, both or neither. These resistor boards sits in the fan air stream mounted into the top of the fan housing to remove the heat generated by this archaic speed control technique. If you get stuck I have a couple. spalusa.com also lists some 3 and 4 speed resistor packs that go with their fans. BTW, spalUSA also supplies complete new squirrel cage fan units .https://webstore.spalusa.com/en-us/productlist/0141/products/centrifugal-blowers/blowers+single+wheel.aspx I'm sure one of them would be a pretty good replacment instead of doing the honda motor swap. Take some work to adapt one, but still. Just another option. VintageAir uses spal fan motors on their custom A/C units.

Another crazy leak I've seen is from a missing 8mm upper fender tab bolt. The one you see when you open the door and look at where the fender meets the unibody, above the top hinge. It's a way to totally flood the floor if its missing.

All kidding aside, what you really need is this. A two part system really. One is a removable section between the two rack mount cups as you mentioned before. But the second part you need is a way to add a support across and below this section BEFORE you remove it. Add some captured nuts either side of this removable section, and fabricate a big a$$ U shaped section channel that attaches left and right of the removable section that extends below it to then support the K-member after you remove the center section. Simple!

I'm assuming you have those fancy new rubber band elastic SS brake lines and the REALLY soft T/C bushings....

Seen asking prices anywhere from $500 - $2000. Much more important to ensure the carbs are in good working order and all have the same jets and venturis. All very difficult to determine from pictures. Use the current retailers of triples to get "new" prices, then judge accordingly. Wolf Creek (mikunis), TWM, Redline, ebay etc. I'd much rather buy a set at $1500 new than a set at $800 and then spend two years getting them back in proper running order and tuned with the ensuing hatred and frustration (and time not enjoying my Z). But that's just me.

while 20 TPI and 1.25mm threads are really close in pitch (0.05 and .04921 inches per thread), the 1/2" and 12mm diameter are not even close. I'm betting those nuts don't spin on to M12x1.25 studs by hand. More likely the studs have been changed as well. I have seen discussions here and elsewhere of using 1/2x20 studs with similar knurl sizes. Do not proceed until you ID the stud dimensions as well. For example, can you spin that Nissan lug onto your studs? I'm betting not. However since 1/2x20 is larger, you could possibly put a 1/2x20 nut on a M12x1.25 stud and it might "seem" like it works, though very loosely. Proceed with caution here until you get this sorted out.

Here ya go. PN 40224-R4670 http://www.am-autoparts.com/Nissan/300ZX/lug-nuts/AM-538611754/678875.html Dorman has a part number for them as well 611-241

These wheels rely on the correct shank diameter to center them. They require the Nissan nuts or ones with the same OD. Dealer has them, but last time I bought some they were $10 each or so! If you get desparate I have a spare set of 8/10 looks wise that are totally usable. $3 each? Maybe someone closer will chime in. I'm sure this was discussed before, in the context of finding locks with the right diameter, don't remember is anyone found an alternate source thought...