z240

Are you looking for stock front and rear control arms and T/C rods? If so, I have some in Calgary. email me at z240@shaw.ca to discuss this further.

And KANG and company won best in show with that 240z. BEST IN SHOW. How's that for cool.

Repairing it will require a TIG welder. Surface sealers will only hit the outside of the crack, it won't get it all. Changing it is just a couple of bolts where it connects to the head. and a gasket likely. Easy peasee? I can send you a spare I have. Maybe check with whiteheadperformance to see if they have one first. Send me a picture of the front of yours (with the sensors) so I get the proper one. z240@shaw.ca will get me.

I have a set. email at z240@shaw.ca to discuss.

The crush washer under the bolt head is likley not sealing. Put a wrench on it and tighten her up!

Futofab has a rear bar arrangement that's pretty similar to that. I'm a fan of the ST style myself. Seems smpler that hanging the bushings from the trans bar cup bolts, but either works. http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=137:datsun-72-73-240z-orange-line-34q-rear-sway-bar-kit&catid=28:datsun-z-car-suspension&Itemid=86 Futofab has a rear bar arrangement that's pretty similar to that. I'm a fan of the ST style myself. Seems smpler that hanging the bushings from the trans bar cup bolts, but either works.

The later arms (not exactly sure of the change date, 75 possibly?), are re-enforced in the area around the spindle pin bushing eyes, but otherwise are freely interchangable. Not likely any issue whatso ever for a street car. Might be less likely to deform if the spindle pins need to be removed with "great" force to extract them, that's about it.

You're paying the price for lowering the car by doing nothing other than shortening the springs. You've lost shock compression travel to the point where you're bottoming with relatively minor bumps. Some coil over system or strut shortening is the only way to maintain this stance and keep some actual suspension travel. The suspension threads are full of these conversions. Do some reading.

Not in Oshawa? I was going to offer one from Western Canada. Cheaper shipping.

Flip your moustache bar around so it curves forward.

Stop worrying about why its wrong and get the shaft in the position so that the dizzy points to cap hole #1 at TDC. You know how to get TDC, so put it back there, pull the pump and get the shaft set. If its any consolation, and so I don't come across as a total a$$, I STILL have trouble getting all the details of timing right from time to time. Just accept your human weakness and make it right.

The general idea is to brace the trans tunnel to the rocker at one or two spots (3/4 tube is fine) at about where the trans mount is located (second layer there), and to do one side at a time. Also be dilligent with how you support the car off the ground, ie do it well, level and solid. This gives the best chance of retaining alignment during repairs. zeddfindings and/or baddogparts are your friends for this repair if you haven't already found them. http://www.datsunzparts.com/products.html http://baddogparts.com

240/260 have hinges with bolts that go from the inside out and thread into the hinges. But for 280z, when Fuel injection happened, they had to use the kick panel areas for the ECU (left) and redesigned fuse panel and bigger relay bracket (right) so the access to the bolt heads was lost, hence the new hinges who's bolts go in from the outside, through new hinges with plain holes, into threaded plates trapped in the kick panels. And yes, you need the fenders off to adjust, or some very fancy wrenches and do it with the doors open.

All the stock ones I've seen are 0.16 and have the depression where it sits on the valve stem. Flat bottom ones are from "other" sources.

Then you have a short circuit that has connected one of the items on the circuit powered by that fuse (fuses?) to ground. Start by looking at each of the bulb sockets on the circuits that don't work. Corrosion is the likely culprit. Marker lights are the usual culprits. Also check the glove box light wiring. For some reason many had that wire fall off and come in contact with the chassis causing problems. Then start checking each connector in the wiring harness starting with the ones under the passenger side dash.

Those beasts are not intended to be removed, but they can be. There are four tabs that click into place when inserted, and you have to put a small blade behind all of them to get the connector to release from the white socket. And the connectors fit real tight, so you need to use some kind of persuasion (hammer) to move them, Heat will help soften things, but be REAL sure you need to do this. I've broken the tabs then they don't lock back in.

I was in my buddies shop one day, and he's working on a cobra replica project. It uses a bunch of fox body mustang parts, and one of those was the gas tank. I took one look and something clicked. "I've seen that before!" This was a few years ago, but I remember taking a few measurements and the dang thing was close to a 240 tank. I remember it was a bit longer, but nothing that gets in the way of the muffler area. Another thing that struck me was the relatively cheap cost of a tank, sender and pump for the thing. From Ford too.. Have a look at these pictures and tell me if it looks as good as I think it does.... https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9002A/1981-86-Mustang-Fuel-Tank-Without-Efi

perhaps one step even more basic. Check the fuses.

Another couple of sanity checks for the 123 crowd. First Absolutely (cheap MAP joke...) check the timing with a timing light after you get your timing map filled out. It's easy to not perfectly zero the 123 LED "on" point relative to your mechanical TDC setting. Second, check what the 123 dizzy MAP sensor reads with nothing connected to its port, ie ambient atmospheric. Mine reads -6 inch/hg up here at 935m elevation. Have to factor that into your advance MAP chart. And that may change the map quite a bit when you take the car to the coast...

You need a large vent line (1/2 - 5/8) attached to the nipple just inside the fill neck while filling the tank to prevent annoying pump shut off and slow filling, and a small (1/4 ish) line while running to replace air while running the engine and draining the tank. Many have said the vent in your fuel cap should even be enough for that. Conventional previously posted methods use the two top vent lines (rear one to the fill neck and the front one to the stock tank vent hard line) and cap the one at the far drivers (left side).

Here is a test you should all do. Go out to your running engine and spray some starter fluid into the air cleaner and see if your RPM rises. I've always wondered why adding starter fluid to the intake air will cause a rise in RPM. Increasing throttle opening is about the only thing that has a first order effect on RPM. Or an engine is stumbling at idle due to a lean condition might "Smooth out" by artifical richening with spray. In my experience nothing happens. At least with carburated engines. Maybe MAF's or O2 sensors or something get a changing signal that gets the ECU reacting by increasing RPM on "modern" engines, but I have never found a vacuum leak with starter fluid spray... Just a warning to not be dependent on "common" diagnostic techniques....

I'm not sure I'd be happy with a builder that sealed up the breather hole with a frost plug. No doubt your research has uncovered that the breather performs a critical function and must at the very least be left open to atmosphere though should be properly vented through a PCV valve to the intact.

Anyone try a "glue on to the glass" style mirror rather than fighting with the Z mounting system? I've always been tempted to buy one of these do-all aftermarket mirrors that has the home link/temp/Compass/Reverse camera screen just to see if I can make it work. They are likely wider than our mirrors which would mean some visor customizing as well. Once you get going, one thing leads to another..... About all I've done to improve my mirror is to "alter" the arm so the mirror is positioned about 1" higher, and about 1" closer to the glass too. I found the windshield to be narrow as it is, and having the mirror in the stock vertical position was really is in the way of my vision to the right.

I think you mean "diff-izzle"

This is better than porn for a EE...