z240

Here is what I have

I have a stock hood bracket that I removed by drilling the spot welds and a great latch assembly for it. $50 shipped? $30 for just the latch assembly. Send me a note to z240@shaw.ca and I can send you a few pics. Can sandblast the bracket if you like so its all ready to go on.

I'm pretty sure you'll find a pair closer to home, but if you get stuck, let me know, I can send you as set. PM me or drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca if you want to continue the discussion.

Almost guaranteed to have some preload. BE VERY CAREFUL. Not even sure how you'd put the preload back on to re-assemble it. To prove it, clamp the base in a vise, pull the release lever while holding the seat back bracket in your hand. If you feel IMMEDIATE pressure on your hand then the spring has preload. Put another way, with the back bracket in your hand and the lever released, move the bracket back and forth. Under spring pressure through the entire range of motion until you get the release re-seated? Then there is preload

Yup, same for all years up to 78. About the only thing that comes to mind is the size of the firewall hole for the harness, if you have to get that low. The inside face of the firewall has somewhat different "features" as the stuff that hangs in there for 280's close to the fender related to electrical stuff is different, but even basic heater box mounting is the same. Oh, well the heater hose pass through is different, but that's likely far enough inboard not to cause much pain.

All shoulder belt ends with the pins and the matching slots in the lap belt male end are the same in all years of the 240. 72-73 have the retractable lap belt reels and the pockets to house them behind the seats, otherwise the same. I stongly recommend upgrading to new modern belt systems in any case unless you are bent on original appearance, which I get, then at least get the webbing replaced. I have a set of belts from 17813 (12/70) handy, and maybe a couple of others if you want some better pictures. I tended to toss old belts lest I be tempted to use or resell them. I'm old enough to know better now. About some things at least...

Sorry, just re-read the title. Didn't realize you need Z31 bits. Sorry. Too early....

Are you pretty sure they weren't like that before you put them in? Any pictures from the seller that shows them straight initially? Its very unlikely you did that with your engine, IF these are the stubs originally supplied by Todd/wolf creek. Otherwise they were "created" then not properly heat treated. I'd be asking for my money back from the seller. Let us know who it was at the least. I'm surprised those even engage the mating splines in the diff. The flange likely doesn't spin concentrically and is very like the cause of the vibration.

The engine mount bolts are 8x1.25 long enough to pass through the mount and isolator. Do you isolators have captured nuts? If so you just need bolts long enough to thread into the nuts. Measure. If no captured nut, you need bolts long enough to pass through with nuts and locks. Note of caution here. If you bought generic engine mounts from flea-bay or similar, I've had them come with the captured nuts being 5/16 NC, not metric. Check carefully. The trans cross member to body mount bolts are 12x1.25, long enough to pass through the two ears on the trans tunnel + a self locking nut and washer. Measure the ear spacing, its the price to pay for the info. The single stud on the trans isolator that connects it to the cross member is 10 x 1... no wait, take the isolator to the hardware store and find a nut that fits. Another "learning opportunity".... you need a flat and lock washer as well. ok, one more tip, since I'm being a d*ck today, As you balance the stack of nut/locker/flat on the tip of your finger and raise it slowly into the hole in crossmember, to get it started on the hidden stud in there, chant, "be one with the stud" over and over.... It helps, really.

There is a post on the end of the shoulder belt the hooks into a slot on the chrome male tab of the lap belt. The secret is the slot is hidden in the webbing loop.

I agree with Miles. 40+ year old belts are not safe. Go with modern equivalents from MSA or a company like Seat Belt Planet or Andover. Yes it takes a bit of adaption, but it's worth it. Even just from the point of having nice inertial reel belts that work like modern belts rather than the annoying stock retractors. If you absolutely want original belts for restoration or appearance reasons, get a set, have all the belt material replaced by a professional that specializes in this. There are threads on here that mention vendors, or just google it.

Have a look here and see if you see anything you like http://www.mooneyesusa.com/category-s/45.htm

See? We just can't help compartimentalizing these damn things into discrete bins can we? Now you just segregated the 69 build date cars, even though there is no official Nissan model/series whatever at the 12/69 - 01/70 point right? So now I insist we have S1 (69's) S2's and S3 Z's! Oh god, I'm just making this worse aren't I? Sorry. While there is no official "series anything", humans just need a way of referencing the differences that did happen and group them into some sort of named entity for easy reference during discussion. The very visible vent location/def line/console change happened over a short enough time span that it became a defacto and easily referenced line in the sand. I've always thought the cars with the mix of these items (and more that were'nt visible) were the most interesting. There are no rules about value. Rarity and Condition are always going to be the universal measuring sticks.

You're confusing "value" with "restoration costs". There is only a very very loose connection between the initial cost to acquire the starting point chassis and the final market value of the completed restoration. The rarity of the resource does affect what you should expect to pay for the starting point however. How many series 1's are out there verses series 2's? The finished product will ALSO be worth more. If I have a S1 and S2 in the same crappy old wore out rust/mechanical/interior condition to sell to you, I'm darn well asking more for the S1 by about a factor of 2 or 3. But I'm talking numbers around what Johnc suggests. not 5K verses 15k! It's emotionally difficult because the cost to restore Z's is still generally more than market value of the finished product with the only exceptions are very early or rare variants of cars. The struggle to achieve "proper recognition" continues with agonizing slowness...

I remember fighting similar issues. I finally read the fine print on the regulator I had purchased, and it clearly stated it requires 3/8" feed AND return lines to work correctly. Pretty hard to achieve with a stock tank. It's not just the hose you use, it's the hard lines in the tank that you can't magically increase to 3/8 ID! Mostly I dialed back the pump capacity to realistic levels rather than using huge racing style pumps. Somehow I ran with a stock mechanical pump to feed my triple 44's on my stroker just fine. Now I use a small electric pump in the rear. Remember you NEED a tank vent for filling (larger, to let air escape while filling) and to let air in while the tank during operation, and only the upper two vent lines provide you access to top if the tank for these functions. Later tanks lost that far left side vent in the narrow part of the tank.

Is it a crazy idea to make thin round shims of various thickness to place under the very plentiful stock lask pads to raise them to the needed height? Surely (don't call me Shirley) this would be a cheaper way to go. Obviously you might need nice tall retainers to make sure there are no escapees....

I have a pair of primed vents in PERFECT condition. Spent hours stripping (4 layers of paint! Krikey!), cleaning, filling imperfections etc. Probably more than your looking for. Asking $100 for the pair + shipping. Naturally I'm not that close.....

Way up here in Western Canada in Calgary. Glad I helped. Been through this "issue" before. I should take some pics of the three frame types and post them here with the details of what's different, shouldn't I?

The 75 and 76 are safe. 77-78 are totally different as are all the window internals. The 240 frames are very very similar but will not work. Mounting points are different, but at first glance will appear identical. Don't be fooled. 260's are likely a match to 75-76 as well, but I can't say that one for absolute sure. Wish you were closer, I have a frame for you.

Hi Greeko. I have one over here in Calgary for you. Drop me a line to z240@shaw.ca and I'll send some pictures. What is the build date of your Z? There are subtle differences in early/late grills. BTW, your sig shows B.C., but want it shipped to Cali?

I have a few of those brake switch blocks here. Not so hard to find if you ask in the right places, eh? Drop me a PM or email to z240@shaw.ca. Might I be foreward if I suggest you take a piece of 14 gauge solid core house wire that bends easy and holds its shape (home depot has it by the foot), and do the approx. length measurement yourself in the comfort of your own garage?

Cheap! Just buy them. Investment quality items. There was a set of "Z"'s just one that were BIN for $850 but sold for best offer.

Paypal received. Package on the way shortly. Thank you!

Do you mean the metal front cross member that bolts to the frame at the front of the diff? Or the rubber insulator between the cross member and the diff nose? Or an Ron Tyler style mount? Just want ot get you the best responses. PM or email z240@shaw.ca I can help with all the above.

Yup, light is complete and fully functional. No cracked plastic. I'll even put a new male bullet connector on it. The only plate lights I have are very very sad.... On the verge of un-restorable. Now if you wanted 280 plate lights in good shape, well I have hundreds of those... If only they fit..... I'll do it for $90USD shipped and swallow the paypal fees. PP ID is z240@shaw.ca.