piston

sorry im, kinda late. i remembered i threw mine away with my old 75z junks.

tranny rebuild can cost a arm and a leg. anywhere from 400.00 up depending on parts and thats already cheap. what are you using the car for? i say if its just cruising, just save yourself some cash and get a good operating used transmission and install it. the price for a rebuild will buy you a decent used one especially a factory datsun 5spd.

cleanest cage job i have seen on a z. everything lines up so perfect.

wow, its all money here. that's one clean rb and a nice 2jz too i should add!!!

man, everytime i look at your pics above, it gives me nightmares. i hate doing body work but managed to get 90% done this year by myself in my garage. im also going 2jz. and will be doing cage and ross member soon. check it out. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=151616

your more likely to get a comment for a set of wheels instead of your dash. i say get some ccw's instead. $2,000 is a little over kill just to have a 240sx dash in your z.

i was thinking about caliper grease since its water and weather proof meaing it stays good all year and does not fade from heat or hot summer days. plus its only 99 cents a pack. i dont see why it wouldnt work! lithium is also a recomendation.

vise grip?

i have no clue what your asking? run that by us again? are you saying you have slide i axles on your 260z? my early 260 came with a r180 with inner 4bolt axles. im loss on the slide in spline. i read this 3 times and still not sure what your question is. wait, if i recall my 75 280z did came with bolts, and my 260z didnt. idont know, i sold them the same week i got the car. now im lost.

if im reading correctly, m1neol is running the stock mount with the r/t mount? the last time i had both, my car vibrated. the idea was that with the r/t on top and stock z mount on bottom, it will not go anywhere even though the rubber should absorb the vibration. someone correct me on this because i know it doesnt sound right at the same time, people say it would vibrate because it does not move up or down.

just giving the local guys heads up on this. rancho cordova has a later 87 z31 missing differential but axles are intact with subframe sitting on the ground under the car. very rare find. i still cannot believe i missed it and somelucky **** is sitting at home with the diff probably on ebay. lol. i dont know why they didnt take the axles? i even called and complain to my girlfriend for no reason like she had any idea what the hell im talking about. ahaha. someone can definantly use this.

the best paint stripper are the ones with a airplane in the front of it. lol. dont use the ones that say, paint stripper. aircraft coating/paint remover is the key word. i also used mar-hyde. took me a whole case of 12 to strip my car down to bare metal with two coats of paint. works awsome on a hot summer day. back to under coating. i went to a local walmart today and noticed also that they have switched over to rustolium pruducts and some other chemical products i didnt even know rustolium makes. anyhow, i still vote for 3m.

so that means you have to go buy door locks for the same year as your new ignition lock cylinder or just snatch the lock cylinder off matcjhing year z at junk yard. i dont know why the lock would be different since its just the cylinder itself. i was playing with a 280z at the junk yard today an notice the lock mechanism is slightly different from my early 260z or maybe i just hvent seen it fora while since that last time i saw mine was 10 months ago. the door catch is different on the 77 280z, i never even notice that..but the lock cylinder for door is pretty much just a lock cylinder. my car came wth no keys what so ever. locksmith says he can do it if i bring it in. hope he can do what he says...let me know what you find.

did you keep the factory manifold? let see some pics! for the wiring, check out clublexus or supramania.com

so i still dont see the anser for where did you buy the carpet? i wanna know...now! j/k. nice. post new pics please.

my runs are very low and fine so i have to be careful. ill try DA ad we will see what happens. it should be easy because its on flat area and only have one or two minor runs with no build up inside the run.

im planning on using 3m. hear good things about the 3m. good info, i will be staying away from rustoleum. i use the rustoleum rust eater and it works like crap.

still got a long ways to go with that body. keep us posted.

we carry the 3m pads here at work. in fact we carry everything 3m makes. just kinda pricey. haha. i heard of nason paint also. cheap and affordable but better than dupli color paint shop. ughhh. that stuff is junk. will be wet sanding and buffing out doors next week.

the two top holes should line up with the body line for a clean correct fitment. its not backwards from the view but it seems like its mounted a little high and off angle on one end.

looks like one from tokyo extreme.

that car came out nice. i should of went with a solid color and everything would be good by now.with te metalic even if it comes out clean, then i still have to worry about the effects of the metalic in the sunlight. you must have a hook it pad DA? because my stickit just washes off after a couple of sand because the water runs in between the pad and sand paper and peels off.

i know about the razor blades but thats really risky. i tried it and its hard to control the blade and angle of cut and went into my primer. lol. the trick is to tape the ends of the blades to raise the edges and cut perpendicular. i say use a hard metal block and sand with 800 or just DA with 800 and go fine from there.

my 260 looks better than a 240. hahaha.

thats one sick b210!!!