piston

this is driving me nuts. first off some of you know i have a 94 caprice lt1 t56 swap into a 75 280z. ok, i finished my exhaust the other day and took it for a test drive. my lights dimmed out and my car came to a stop in the garage and never fired back up. alternator is bad and batery is drained (brand new batery). so i had to throw down some cash and pick up a new alternator and batery. questions... my lt1 alternator was wired f terminal to indicator lamp along with a ground onto neg side of idiot light. the other end was wired to starter switch wire. then for no reason my L wire on the connector was wired to constant hot. wtf? i already know this was wrong cause it sucked the hell out of my alternator and batery. ok, after searching and reading old posts, it looks like only the f terminal is being used on the connector and bat 10gauge goes to contant hot along with fusable link. is that true? i have two wires comming out of my connector and one is label L and other F. F i understand is field output which is ignition hot along with 470ohm resistor or idiot light. now, with the light used, the f goes to the ground side along with the ground wire and the other side of the light goes to ignition hot along with 5amp fuse right? if this is correct, how come my idiot light doesnt go off? im using the light because i cannot find anywhere a 470ohm resistor. not even radioshack. plus the light tells me if its charging or not.. other problems...my car idles at 2k and if i tap the pedal quick 50%, why does it move so fast to 6,300 redline within a blink, seriously! then the rpm slowly comes back down very slowly and then revs back up by itself to 4k or 5k rpm and comes back down and almost stubles but doesnt die out. then my fan turns on out of nowhere after not even being on for a minute. then the engine starts to kick in late like its not getting enough fuel or something. then after its been on for about 30 seconds or so, i rev it and it takes a second before the rpm actually revs. it acts real slow and hesitates when i give it gas. i have power on all my injectors and they all work when i use the 9volt batery trick. its not clogged since the fuel pressure drops everytime i test each injector. the passenger side exhaust runners are way hotter then the driver side. its only obviouse because they are almost gold color by now and the driver side is still chrome. the only thing i can think of is the pcm. could it be because i only have one knock sensor? the pcm, is a 95 camaro pcm and the caprice k/s sensor is the same as the one on the f body im sure. but the caprice uses 2 sensors. i deleted one and use only one since the f body uses only one and the pcm was program to run i guess one. i didnt want to test it and try to see whats up with the rpm and run the engine so long since im not sure if the alternator is charging or not because my indicator lamp stays on. can someone please shim in on their thoughts and experiences please because i can no longer do anything to it until i get a straight anser. thanks....

i was curoiuse, when you turn your front wheels, how close do the tires come to the fender in the front corner? mines is about the same distance and they rub like crazy...

im asumming your in the high 12s and low 13s? iv seriously seen cobras do 12 flat on drag radials bone stock, just tunned...im sure the sbf section has alot of info on these mean machines. traction is the key for these monsters...

yeah, what engine are you running and hp wise and modes and 1/4 time do you have down? just curiouse...

cant you just use a 153 tooth flywheel off the lt1 and run the t5 with it???

i think you should of ask him through message instead of making a post. if its painted, then show the pics on a new post...

when you look at the pcm pinouts, it shows red connector pin 21 is what controls #3 piston. so i would assume if i hook a wire up straight to the pcm pin and connect it to the injector neg, it should fire up right? #3 always had a problem firing but it did fire up at one point. dont know what happened. my wiring always has little problems like this. hopefully it doesnt screw me over on the road far from home someday..ill wire it straight to the pcm pin and see what happens.

does the negative wire on the injector connect to the other injector ground? or does the black wire lead straight to the pcm? i forgot to check when i did my wiring. i think everything fires except injector #3 is not firing cause the exhaust runner is not at hot. if it just grounds to any dround on the wiring, then ill just ghook it up to the neg injector wire next to it like ho i did the pos pink wire.

i have negative offsets on my rims but not sure by how much. the rims bare stick out about 1 1/2 from fender and it rubs like crap on the front fender where the spoiler and fender meets. im running 205/55/16. i might get away with 225/45/16. see what happens. i wonder how people get away with 9-10 inch rims with 245-275 tires???

if hes using an auto tranny, i dont think he needs to worry about the reverse light switch does he? i thought it was only for the t56

i have a quick question and dont want to post a new thread but if i was to keep the rims the way it is, and use 1 1/2 or 2 inch spacers. whats the difference? the wheels inner lip is sitting in the same spot fromt hub to center? my wheel bearing is going to wear out is what i was told but whats the difference in putting on some spacers??? it doesnt make any since to me. either way around, inner lip sits in the same area. wont putting some spacers on it do the same thing and put stress on the wheel bearing also?

i posted a wheel flip for nagative offset thread... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118118&highlight=rims+flip, but i had this thought and question. if i flip them and now have a smaller lip on the inside, its gonna wear out my wheel bearings since its being spaced out further is what i was told, but isnt it the same thing if i put on 1 1/2 or 2 inch spacers??? im lost here for a bit and want to see if anyone can tell me whats the difference in that, i dont want to flip them back and put on some spacers because it doesnt make any since to me when the inner lip will be sitting at the same demensions either way around?

i cant go 3.5 all the way because the ,af is 3.25 i think. plus i couldnt get my hands on some 3.5 so ill just keep it the way it is. the gauge is for my fuel pressure. it sits at 40psi while the enigne is running. does that sound right??? deja, im just a littl eparanoid, my friggen 02 sensors are hanging off the control arms. duh...and my motor mount bolts arent even tighten down yet. took me an hour later to thought of that. im sure these 2 are the cause of the noises. the o2 swings around and hits the side when i turn and the engine move when i gas it = noises....

i can tell its steel cause of the weld marks...i threw my factory elbow piece away. what a dumb a$$. i know! i could of made a full tank of gas out of that one..at the time, didnt think it was worth anything.

nice numbers. i took mine for a spin around the block today for the first time. it looks like im going to have traction issues also. i cant imagine anything over 300hp and i only have an lt1 with a hotmcam package...rpm sounds like it clibs so fast, i get worried and throw it to nutral asap...

i thought it was big to when i bought it. yes, no restriction. lol... took it for a test drive around the block with crappy rims. sounds like somethings loose under the car. might be my sway bars or something, when i turn, it makes a ticking noise sometimes...hopefully nothing major but man this thing sounds sick and has some serious rpm climb...

i would go single turbo t72 or bigger, skip the 383, keep the 350. invest in some heavy duty rods and low comp pistons, save cash and skip the 400 stroke crank(machine work) and use it towards the turbo fuel feed. maybe extra injectors or bigger injectors or aftermarket fuel setup. fmic is a must for me...ported heads, bigger valves, port manifold. boost loves to slide accross smooth side walls.. bigger throttle body... pretty much you can make easy 500hp off a sbc350 with good pistons, tuning and fuel feed. just my opinion...ive seen people making over 450hp with basic 8-9 pounds of boost on a sbc with good tunning and fuel supply.

nice....that makes me wonder should i do the bolt through the filter thing. mine sits real nice and pretty stiff. its good insurance though! by the way, you could of posted it on my thread, no hijacking thoughts what so ever. anyone welcome. i love threads with pics. especially variouse pics, it gives out alot of great ideas and also great for new commers or swappers fallowing our steps...because it worked out great for me and gave me a whole lot of ideas to work with. by the way, how big is the piping???

heres my t56 mount design. didnt want to do anything crazy or too dificult, so made it basic. easy in, easy out, easyly adjustible also. side view from inside...looks like the average distance right? the shifter whole looks big cause i widened up towards the passenger side. is this how your guys t56 shifter sits also???oh yeah, ignore the sheep skin seat...temporary use... has about one inch of play. you guys think its too much or still good to go? driveshaft shortend and new 1310 yolk weld on to adapt to the jtr flange so i wont have to use a conversion joint and balanced, all for $81.00 front side view. adjust by moving it left to right or up and down by changing bolts to longer ones and ad spacer or washers..

heres better pics of the front. shows the intake and radiator overflow bottle and stock caprice oil cooler. isnt it cool how it just mounts perfectly in the front of the car! i was thinking about mounting a mini fan on it just for kicks, but that might be overkill..i couldnt think of a better place for the radiator bottle...

sure 80lt1, why not, lets see some pics...i looked at your pics on your website but not sure if youve updated to any of your latest pics yet. my stock datsun intake is mounted right next to the rail where the top hose goes to. ill be wraping the pcm with thermal batery wrap from work. yes, i cant wait to get this thing on the road and tear up some tires. i havent drove a fast car in years since the last time i blew my old car 3 years ago. this is the most ive done to any car i had in the past years. the more you spend, the more you apreciate and love the car. i want to get it moving so i can take it to my buddies body shop, then you guys will see me in the body/paint forum. ill be doing it myself on spray and everything, have all the equipment i need plus a booth. trying to not let anyone work on this but myself. so far, ive dont everything myself w/ an extra hand from my older bro. im going on vacation for a week and cant wait to get back to finish this thing up. its like my other girlfriend!!!

i got the elbow for 45.00 on ebay plus the air throttle insert thing included for free..and 2 couplings. not bad at all actually for 45.00. the couplings on the mass air flows were seperate..those were the ones for 6 bucks a piece..

i got the couplings on ebay as well. they have different sizes from 3 to 3.5 or any size you need. its like 6 or so bucks a piece. the only thing i got from ebay is the lt1 intake elbow(black piece)...

thanks for the comments, dayvyz, ill be welding the notch as soon as i get this thing perfectly running, right now, im focused on having it run perfect before anything goes, but i will be welding the notch..and yeah im proud and excited...i moved this thing out of the garaged the other day and all the neighbors stuck their head out of theer fences and looked at the car like what??? i had to grab a few beers for myself!!! 9t4s, my motor was on stand rotating back and forth while i bought new parts, and did my harness, everytime i look at it, it gave up hopes cause it just seems so much more and a long ways to go. as soon as it sits in your engine bay, its a whole different story...more confident... deja, the dold air intake is a custome peice..ehehe, the elbow is a cold air elbow i got off of ebay a couple months backfor lt1s, it was actually really cheap, i got it for 45.00, came with 2 couplings and they even threw in a air/throttle foil insert piece. im not sure if the company still sells it or not but at the time i bought it, they had 4 or 5 listings. now the center piece, i found in the garage. dont know what it came off of, found it laying around, so i just tested it, works on the curve, so installed it. the end piece in the front is the stock 280z cold air intake that came with the car. i slapped on a k&n filter for a tahoe on their cause i coulnt imagine using the small z filter.

been working on this thing for a while now, about 1 year. alot of time and labor put in, everything done little by little and sometime a whole lot at a time. it starts and runs but no exhaust yet. heres the pics. injoy lt1 nuts...feed back welcome! jtr radiator mounted... passenger rear view bottom radiator view..sorry, kinda blurry... rear view of my hybridz...sanding the rest comes last! driver side rear angle view top jtr radiator and racket/fan view...notice pcm is mounted under intake held by bracket onto the wall...using a carpice harness.... radiator hose/ghetto t and notice i cut my frame rail to clear the a/c delete pulley. driver side view...using 14" fans at the moment. hopefully it will hold. draws a good amount of air throught the radiator... top front view...love the jtr radiator supports...