Noddle

This is what I did to mine I found a drill was the easiest way to remove most of the material. http://noddle.110mb.com/Moding%20my%20intake%20manifold/index.html Nigel

How do you have it cut ?, laser, water, milled ? Nigel

I found this Note that the 68HC908 processors (for standard MegaSquirts and MSnS-E) already have the code loaded. Simply install MegaTune with all the default settings, and you should be ready to run. here http://www.megamanual.com/index.html it's about half way down Nigel

The reason I asked this question, Is that I'm planning to put a turbo on my N/A L24 (I will need to check the head ID), it has dished pistons, but I don't know the compression ration, so with my lack of experience with turbo s, I would think that this would help with detonation (will be running low boost, less than 10 psi), and using a "venturing effect" to introduce water into the intake, no pump would be required, also at this time I will not be using a intercooler Nigel

Hi, I have a question, Is it possible to add water as a mist before the Turbo, or does it need to be injected after the turbo ? the reason I ask, is that 20 odd years ago, my brother brough a little water injection kit for his N/A car, the kit included a small copper pipe which was fitted to the carburettor above the butterfly (had to drill a hole in the body), this connected via a pipe to a little valve (like a fish tank air valve), this connected to a bottle of wate, (stored below the carbrator), the way it worked was a venturing effect was applied to the copper pipe in the carb, that sucked the water up the pipe through the valve (to control the amount of water), and into the carb , the more the throttle opened the more water was ingested. Would this work ? Nigel

Hi, I have a question about where the wastegate actuator plumbing is taken from, The picture here has 2 connections, A and B, I have seen turbos with either A or B, what is the difference from taken the "pressure" from A over B, Why is A and B joined at C ?, what does this do ? Nigel

Why not just upload it to the forum for anyone to grab?, unless you want some control over who gets it, like not letting some company use it to make money from. Nigel

You are correct, it's not a variable one, I need to source something else. anyway thank you for your help, I ordered my MS yesterday, I'm looking forward to playing with it. Nigel

Thank you for picking up on the injector driver, am I correct in thinking that the TPS is a variable resistance type TPS, ie the more throttle the more or less resistance it has ? I believe the type on my car now is a switch type, ie, no throttle, full throttle, no in between, so this will need to be replaced. and again, thank you for looking at this, Nigel

I knew this.. Does that mean i'm a "Old mechanic" ?

Nice one Braap, much more elegant than my way.. Nigel

Thank you for looking, since MS is going to be a large learning curve, I need to make sure I understand how I need to set it up, on that note, could you have a look at this schematic and see if I have it wired right, I'm planing to use the existing wiring and make the changes I need. The parts in Red are the changes I believe I need. As you can see from the picture it's not a "Z" but a R30 skyline Nigel

I use a socket and hammer to remove the "collets", what you do is hold the socket over the valve, make sure the socket is large enough to allow the valve stem to fit into (1/2inch or so), and give it a crack, the valve collets just pop out, Note: the head must be removed from the engine, and sitting on blocks of wood to keep the valves from touching any thing under the head, ie, the bench. I hope this helps Nigel

Ok, this should work then ? I can wire a relay in the engine bay for the injector power, have I missed any other wire that I may need ? I suppose I should say that, It's will be installed on a standard L24e, running stock electronic distributor, which uses the E12-80 module, no electric fan, no NOS, etc.. Nigel

Hi, will this work ? As you can see from the picture, power is always on to the injectors, I take it, to fire them MS earth's them out, so when the power if off to the MS unit, I would think it would leave the injectors in a open circuit, ie, not firing I'm trying to wire it to fit in with the existing wiring, Nigel

Hi, not to hijack your thread, but I'm planing to buy a MS2 using a v3.0 board, I'm plaining to use the stock electronic distributor, which uses the E12-80 module, but later run EDIS, my question is, will I need to make hardware changes to the MS unit ?, also what version / software would be best to use ?, it's a bog standard L24e Nigel

Silly question, but is the US 810 the same as the Aus 180B / 200B ? Nigel

You may want to look at this http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbotech-manual-turbo-boost-controller-THE-ORIGINAL_W0QQitemZ200215056466QQihZ010QQcategoryZ130654QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem and here's a link to a page that talks about it http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/good-cheap-boost-contr-t73375.html Nigel

It's in between the main rail, and the cold start, since the cold start is closed except at cranking (?) I think it should show full pressure, when I remove the vacuum from the fuel regulator, the gauge shows it. As for the Teflon tap, I never though about the reaction between it and petrol, but I can say, it has never leaked.

I did mine like this http://noddle.110mb.com/Fuel%20Pressure%20Gauge/index.html Nigel

I only wanted to change the AFR a little, so doing what I did, done what I wanted, also I'm not running a turbo. Nigel

I just watched a training video "Metal Casting Die Casting", very interesting stuff, here are some images,

I knew I saw your design from some where else, the book "Maximum Boost" has a section on intercoolers, I copied this.

I did find some on ebay (it took 5 month or so to find them) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=260215009310&_trksid=p3984.cWON.m313.lVI in very good nick too. Nigel

We are changing the resistance I checked the resistance at the temperature sensor as I said above I tested the resistance at the sensor, and yes N1,L1 and R1 was the result of those tests. On my engine the resistances gets smaller as the engine warms up. I found my original research for you, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90063&highlight=fuel+tweek post #7, and this one http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html I hope this helps Nigel