mtnickel

That one sits on top of the frame rails, not between like others will. I believe maximum width to fit between is about 25, but 24-24.5 is preferable. Mark

This might help... Looks like it's from an automotive class. If it's COP, you might need to pull out the coils.

This one has a total height of 16.5". I'm fairly certain that isn't too tall for a Z-car. I've seen others up over 18.75" (JTR), and the KOYO 240z rad on ebay is roughly 17.5" tall (454mm). Did you look at core size or overall height?

As an update. I think I'll take the plunge on this. looks like a decent piece. Will keep you updated on fitment and cooling abilities. Mark

Looks like this might fit the bill for us RB guys. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-RACING-DUAL-CORE-2-ROW-COOLING-RADIATOR-86-87-COROLLA-AE86-4AGE-JDM-/221065284508?forcev4exp=true&forceRpt=true For those that can't view when that link expires: it's an ae86 rad. Mark Update (Feb 2014). Finally got around to installing this. I'd say for the budget it's a pretty good option. I this into it: $110 - Rad $7 - 1 3/8" pipe ends to be welded (or JB welded) over-top of the 1 1/4" outlets $5 - Stock toyota rad top brackets. I forget the model but some late 80's or 90's toyota. Cresida maybe?. - Lower rubber mount from random car with rubber donut and hole (with $5 above). Here are the parts in question: the one Rubber donut on the left was the proper toyota one, but all the toyota mounts were welded to the chassis so I couldn't pull them. The one on the right has a match that isn't seen here. The hole was too small to fit the bottom studs. To enlarge it I took a Pulley bolt that was the right diameter, heated it up red hot with a Oxy/Ace Torch and ran it into the hole. Worked like a charm. Otherwise it's difficult cutting rubber. Dimensionally it fit like an absolute dream. First I checked how much hood clearance I had using cardboard. Once I had the rad up though it was clear that there was over 1.5" of clearance so I took the cardboard off so it didn't get in the way. The upper support is a tube so I couldn't weld a nut on the underside. I resorted instead to drilling all the way through and welding studs(bolts) to hold the upper brackets: The rubber donuts are seen below. I actually mounted them second. I jacked up the radiator until it was nice and snug to the top brackets. Then I positioned the lower and tacked them to the lower rad support. Here's how it came out:

Here is from my RB notes. I basically had to learn every system as I was going to use Megasquirt. For my system it would have required a few logical statements to program properly. I have since scrapped Megasquirt. I have a 24/1 wheel if you need one for Ignition, though surely Edis system will be easier/cheap/foolproof. I've heard mixed reviews on getting the 2 slot optical sensor working properly if it's not receiving the 360* signal. NCVS Notes: Light Load At light loads and below 6100 rpm, NVCS is OFF with the intake valves retarded. This helps to promote a smooth idle and engine stability. Medium to Heavy Load, 1050 < 4500 rpm At higher loads but lower RPM's, it is possible for air that has flowed into the cylinder to bounce back out again. This decreases volumetric efficiency and therefore an earlier valve closure is desired. So under these conditions NVCS is ON and the intake valves are advanced by 20 degrees. Doing this can increase engine torque in this range by close to 20 lb-ft. Medium to Heavy Loads, > 4500 rpm Now at higher RPM's, whereas before the problem was that air was bouncing back out through the intake port, now the problem is that not enough air has had a chance to flow in yet. In order to take advantage of inertia effects, a later valve opening is preferred, even if it is the same duration. So at high revs, NVCS is now switched OFF and the intake valves are retarded back 20 degrees to their original position. This can help with top-end torque by as much as 10 lb-ft. Your logical rule will likely be: If MAP > 500mbar/-15in vac AND RPM is between 1050-4500rpm then NCVS is on. Megasquirt couldn't do 3 conditions (map> 500 AND RPM>1050 AND RPM<4500, so for me I would have had to set it up: Dummy RPM output = RPM>1050 AND RPM<4500. NCVS output = if MAP> 500mbar AND Dummy RPM = on. I'm not sure of the limitations of your system though. I also have Voltage curves and other info on the stock coolant sensor, air sensor, etc. So you can calibrate the system to use those instead of what most do (get GM sensors). I've abandoned Megasquirt due to hour many hours and hours it will take me to wire and test. Let alone try to get it running. I've instead decided to first run stock ECU and see how I like the power. Perhaps mild boost controller. After that, best RB tuning solution is to use Z32 ECU chipped to run nistune. Good luck!

How did the shifter position end up doing it this way? Secondly, how is the shifter action? My original plan was to just mount the shifter directly to the first joint and then counter brace it half way up for in/out motion. a quick google image search brings up exactly my thoughts... http://photobucket.com/images/z32+shortened+shifter+for+rb+use/ I had read that shifter placement using stock linkage might be too far back, but haven't mocked up my engine yet to check. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Mark

You can make your own decel fuel cut using the fuel map. This is what I did for my Dad's Porsche 914. Basically, Datalog: figure out what vacuum you pull on decel. take a reading at a low RPM (perhaps 1500-2000rpm) because you'll get more vacuum at high rpm and if you use that reading, it could be work spotty. So say we get a reading of 25mBar, Setup the VE table as follows RPM 500 1000 1800 3000 ... Map 100 80 80 83 84 .. .. 40- 30 30 30 30 ... 28- 30 30 30 30 ... 27- 30 30 0 0 0 So what happens is when vacuum drops below 27 (signaling closed throttle decel), it cuts the fuel. Don't worry about running lean anywhere because since the map values (28,27) are so close, it's either on or off. No interpolation between them causing a lean condition. Moreover, you won't experience any cruising loads with this low of a map. I don't make the entire row 0 as it can cause a stumble coming back to idle. Instead have it bring fuel back in somewhere between 1000-2000 rpm. This is a guide, I set it up years ago, so the numbers could be much different. Anyways, it worked like a charm. I later got MS2 with the decel feature, but it didn't even work as good for whatever reason. Hope this helps someone. Mark Perhaps even the lowest amount you can pull (so

Side note: I bought 3 sets of these (3 sets of 4 = 12), so I have 2 6 cyl sets for us RB guys. I figured better to buy an extra set than have 2 spare injectors. Anyways, if you haven't bought them yet and want them, let me know. I found injector clips off some subaru at the Junk yard. Think I only got enough for me. But they were easy enough to find. Let me know. Mark

I will be doing MS eventually on my RB25. It's really been quite the ordeal though. So far, For ignition, i'm converting to a Coil pack (3000gt/stealth) system which came with the pack, and a nice ignitor/heatsink all together with a stock looking harness. Could have used stock COP's but have heard they are known to die and are expensive to replace. As for ignition timing, I got a 16 tooth wheel (with 1tooth reset) from AEM. They send it to all RB AEM EMS users because the stock 360 tooth causes too many interrupts. Other problem is the sensor that reads for the 16tooth can be intermittent since it uses some phasing system (with 2 slits instead of 1), so i'll just retrofit a basic Optical Interrupter switch... http://media.digikey.com/photos/Fairchild%20Semi%20Photos/H22LOI,H22LOB,H22LTI,H22LTB.jpg Perhaps a bit of work and configuration, but this way i can keep the CAS mostly stock. Other things that need to be added/modified. temp sensors and bias resistors. oh, and transistors for both idle air control valve and boost controller (if you venture into using it). The stock IAC can be used i believe and i even found out what the stock operating frequency was on it (i think it was like 120hz or something). Also, the RB25 has the ncvs system (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N-VCT). Upon research, it appears theres a few conditions in which it activates. first of all, it's RPM dependant (active from 1500rpm to about 5000 rpm i believe. This is approx, i don't have the exact numbers, just giving an idea). And also, the system activates only under moderate load. So only >70mbar MAP perhaps. This can all be done in Megasquirt though using one of the programmable outputs. (you actually have to daisy chain 2 together though. Output A = RPM >x AND RPM 70. Anyways, i have most of this all documented at home in a word doc, and will likely post my success and failures with it once it comes time to implementation. Feel free to ask me any questions about MS or the RB25 as i've done as much research as I can. Mark

Well...i checked my sources again (which was the 3si forum), and they had actual measured of the Stock system at 5ms at idle dropping to 4.3ms at about 2k on up. That said...this is where i got my inspiration from... http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=137151 And he's using the same coils with megasquirt. Following his guidelines, i'd say start at 3.6ms as well and move up if the coils aren't getting too hot. Chances are it should be fine going up to 4.3ms, but just ease into it to be sure. Mark

I found a full 3000gt/stealth ignition setup for pretty cheap. Similar idea with the PTU. I also got a good condition coil pack. Think the whole thing set me back $40-50 shipped. Asked specifically for all the original plugs so i can keep it stock looking. Ebay didn't have the greatest deals, and the items on there weren't selling at listed price. So instead i messaged an ebay member telling him exactly what i needed and what i wanted to pay. Lots of them have the whole car, and after one or 2 auctions doesn't sell, they'll let you have it. Or check local junk yards/craigslist for parting out vehicles. PS. This ignition system is pretty stout too...perhaps not as good as the LS1 coils, but still very good for a stock system...typically still sparking on the mitsu engines up past 20psi. There's also a lot of good info the the mitsu forums, where i found out the optimal dwell times and whatnot. Anyways, I'm rambling now. My setup is for my rb25det Mark

Although i didn't read the whole thread, it seemed people said MS2 can't use this. But actually, there is MS2 Extra, which is a pretty feature rich developed codebase. It's what i'll be using. Also, the "experimental" Boost controller originally implemented for MS extra wasn't actually done the best i don't think. I know they made some significant changes recently to the MS2 one (which was originally the same as the MS1 extra one). Apparantly it responds at lot better now as the got the PID algorithm working better. They also modded the idle algorithm too (which is PID as well). PID = Proportional, Integral, and Derivative values. Wiki has a good description of it in case you're wondering how these things work. Mark

Regarding the Fuel pump signal. It's possible that the original signal went to a Fuel pump controller. I know the GTR's had this (higher voltage under higher load). Anyways, an easy solution would be to just add a basic transistor that will in turn power your relay. You can google transistors and how to use them. But basically with a small input voltage, they open a gate that would give you full battery voltage. (like an electronic relay really). For the BOV, you could attempt to connect lines to it to recirulate it. (connects to pre-turbo, but post MAF). Mark

You should be able to just vent it to atmosphere yes. But keep in mind that under vacuum the valve will be open. 2 problems here: 1 unfiltered dirty air gets into your engine. You can throw a breather on it though. 2) the extra air is unmetered. So if using MAF still, then you will be running lean. Alternatively, when it actually blows off, you will run very rich. Long story short, MAF systems typically require a recirculation to avoid running issues. But if you've converted to MAP, then go for it! Mark

ps...there is a dedicated RB section that a lot of us S30 guys frequent (i'm pretty new though). Mark

I'm in the same boat as you. More that I can't justify the cost though...they are available from nismoparts.com i think. I like to weld though and will basically just cut the entire thing off about 1" down from the flange. Cut off the oil pickup...reposition it and braze it. then cut away whatever needs to be from the baffling to refit the new sump location. While i'm working on it, i'll likely "wing" it, that is box out the bottom to add about another 1-1.5L of capacity. I won't be doing this though for a few weeks as i'm pretty busy with work right now. But good luck, and post any pictures of your progress. Oh, and the dip stick needs to be relocated, but there is info on this site of how to do that. Mark

1.5" core too thin?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Accessories_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__CXRacing-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-84-87-COROLLA-AE86-SR5-GTS_W0QQitemZ390014341527QQddnZPartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadiZ2865QQddiZ2811QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item390014341527&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318 Other dimensions are pretty good. I know it's barely cheaper than some other options, but i'm as budget oriented as they come. Ideally, i'd find that Datsun one that another member posted a little while ago? Alternatively, the original Ae86 Automatic had the same dimensions, but it was a 1.5" dual Core. Not sure if that'd be a good scrap yard find or not. the 1.8L original engine capacity isn't inspiring though. Mark

I think you raise some good points here. Unfortunately with my last turbo setup I somehow had a 2-3psi Pressure drop at HIGH RPM. Not so great for performance. Perhaps best solution would have been to fix pressure drop (better intercooler i think), but i just referenced IM instead. IN hindsight...a reference after the intercooler but before IM would have been better. Mark

That is exactly correct. One wheel/pattern (the 24 teeth) is a resolution wheel. The other (the one tooth) acts as a reset to TDC. It counts teeth there after in 60* increments to fire the cylinders. I only know megasquirt closely, but it should be the same for AEM. The 360 tooth wheel cannot be used because at 7000-8000 rpm, it causes too many "interrupts" (computer verbiage) that delay the system and cause errors and misfiring.

This would appear harder than it sounds. I attempted to do mine, but it's BLOODY hard to even see and count the slits. You'd be surprised. A good magnafying glass rig and vise to clamp wheel are essential. Even cutting the notches is hard...I couldn't use and snippers, and resorted to using a dremel with my tiniest bit. It ended up being too much work and I just called AEM to get one (i had to magically get a real Serial number for an RB AEM ECU for them to send me one though). I have seen the mod done though. If i were to do it again, i'd get a good scoring tool or good felt and mark out the entire thing before hand. Even still it's not easy. I was also trying to make a 72 tooth'd wheel with 2 missing teeth (to simulate a 36-1 crank wheel). Perhaps that's where my increased difficulty came. On a side note, you can't use the OEM wheels for AEM. Not the 360 slit section anyways. If it's distributor based, you could probably use the 6 slits though. Mark

Holset He-351cw (also known as the Hy-35 from the newer dodges 2004.5+) has a nice 60mm compressor inducer and 9cm^2 turbine housing. Trim wise and flow wise it's easily about the same as a gt35r. Flows up around 67lbs/min. There is a slightly smaller he-341 (2003-2004) holset, it'll spool faster, but i can't be sure it'd make 450whp. If i had to guess, i'd think it'd be really close.

I'm local to nagasaki. In fact, i'm fairly close to picking up a Z32 trans from them. In my findings, it turns out they were bought out by another company (some other JDM company in Ontario). The Delta, BC site (nagasaki) will still be operated though and they have many ebay auctions still in operation. I guess this doesn't really change anything. Anyways, I bought a honda motor from them a few years ago and it was great. If it's still operated the same, i'm sure you'll have no problems. Nearly all the local JDM engine shops (BC, Canada) i've used have had good quality engines if that makes a difference. Good luck with the purchase. If i get a chance to buy the tranny relatively soon, i'll give you heads up on the condition of their shop. Its not likely i'll get there soon though since i'm busy finishing up my semester at school. Mark

For what it's worth, I'm going to be running an Rb25det in my 260z. The turbo i decided on is a Holset HE-341 (also known as 2003-2004 HY-35). This is a slightly smaller version of the newer He-351 (2004.5- 2006 Hy-35). It's well sized for the engine, and has a nice 90* outlet. They are some of the best turbo's made as well reliability wise, and are available on dodge cummins forums for $200-300 shipped. i've got a couple of them actually. Sorry i can't help with fitment, but i'd imagine it wouldn't be too hard to fit the t3/t4. worst case senario, you have to buy a top mount Exhaust manifold. (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-RB20DET-GTS-T-RB25DET-Turbo-Manifold-Top-Mount_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem390005868313QQitemZ390005868313QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories). for $150 shipped. Mark

I really dont' know much. All i know is there is a separate air valve specifically for when the A/C is turned on so the engine doesn't stall or bog. Also provides a few more revs for the A/C to work more efficiently. Alternatively, you could just set the idle a little on the high side anyways (800-900rpm). Mark