Sparky

Now my life is easy My life ain't hard I'm gonna spend all day In my f*ckin' backyard I ain't got no money Hell, I don't care My parents let me use their credit card I've got nowhere to go Just hang out on the street My folks say I've got no ambition At least I give a sh!t About the stuff I eat Yeah! I care about nutrition Tried to get a job At the retail store But I could not stand the competition Now I spend all my time Hangin' out at the shore Givin' myself a skin condition I've got nowhere to go Just movin' on my feet People say I've got no ambition At least I give a sh!t About the stuff I eat Yeah! I care about nutrition Sometimes I get upset When I see on the TV All them people in this world That is starvin' But there's nothin' in this world That could possibly bother me When I smell the turkey Dad is carvin' Boy I'm starving Christ I'm starving! My folks said I gotta get myself a job 'Cause they ain't gonna support me Well, if all I am to them Is just some lazy slob Why didn't they abort me? I guess I'll just hang out On Broad and South Livin' by my intuition At least I give a sh!t What I put into my mouth Yeah! I care about nutrition Nutrition It's good for me Nutrition I've got vitamin C I care (x3) I give a healthy sh!t And Mom and Dad say if I eat all of my food I can go to the hard core show and see F.O.D. -Nutrition - The Dead Milkmen

I've been talking with hybridz member Matt about some possible causes, it seems that my first step should be reloading the firmware to see if maybe the code was somehow corrupted at some point in time. beyond that though I have no idea.

Hello everyone, I'm having a strange problem and I hope that someone here can guide me in the right direction. first though a little background: Car had been running great on a set of low impedance injectors for a few hundred miles until I got the bug to run E85. I upgraded everything in the fuel system and am now running larger injectors, still low impedance (2.7 ohms x 6 injectors on three drivers) well after tracing down a faulty ground on my ignitor the car fired right up and ran fairly well on my original tune and also on a tune I recieved from a friend of mine that was running larger injectors. so anyway, I take the car for a test spin to check for strange noises, I get about three blocks away and the E6X disconnects from my PC and starts to run terrible, it wont idle, wont free rev and wont take any kind of load without putting up a heck of a fight and wont reconnect to my PC giving me an error message like this "Cannot connect to COM port." well I baby it home and sit in the driveway trying to figure out whats going on and the car dies. I then turn the key into the off position and then back on and try to reconnect and viola!, she reconnects. I sit in the car without the engine running and just stare at the computer waiting for the seemingly inevitable....and then it happens, E6X dumps the computer connection and will not reconnect spitting out the same error message as before. So I try again, key off, key on, haltech reconnects. this time though I try start the car and interestingly enough she runs just fine....for a few minutes anyway until a repeat of the above.... sigh, turn her off and head home for the next few days to think about what to check when I can get into the garage next week. and whats where I'm at today, Sorry for the epic post but I wanted to be as thorough as possible so that I can get the best feedback possible. I did search the archives on the haltech forum and found this post... http://www.oz951.com/halforum/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=373 ...There are a few similarities there except that my wideband sensor is toast so I cannot see a rich or lean condition when the car runs rough, but since shes not popping like crazy I'm going to assume its a over-rich condition thats occuring. My first thought as I was sitting in the car was that I overloaded the injector drivers in the ECU and it went into some kind of "safe mode" but I kept thinking that from what I read when I installed it, it doesnt matter what type of injectors they are as long as the settings are correct in the setup and that the E6X can support two peak and hold injectors per driver without running a resistor box.Now since that was my only thought I'm feeling a bit lost on what to check for when I do get a chance to work on the car, and since my available time for play things is so limited I need to be sure to maximize my efficiency when the opportunity presents itself. So thats it, are there any previous cases of this and/or known resolutions? My first few steps are going to be of the more obvious nature : check grounds, +leads, after that maybe the CAS and trigger setup....it just seems odd to me that a simple off-on can temporarily resolve the issue which suggests to me that its something in the ECU itself thats throwing a fit. I'm open to any/all comments and want to thank everybody in advance for anyhelp you can offer.

Yeah I was going to get the Apexi N1 universal turbo muffler but couldnt stomach the 200+$ price tag so I bought a 50$ Dynomax instead Have you looked at the used or "JDM" wheel market? http://www.rbwheels.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=17_21_23&sort=20a&page=1 The big problem with used wheels is that you might never find just the right offset so you have to space wheels out sometimes to get them to fit or look right, thats not a problem for some, but its a big problem for others. They have a good selection of 5 lug 17" wheels right now, maybe something there will inspire you to take a certain direction....its always good to just look. The more I think about those HRE's on a lime car though the more I like it!

HRE's are very nice wheels and I do think the charcoal centers with a lime Z would be very cool. At the same time though, and even though they are really nice, they are also a very modern wheel (although you could argue that they are a a modern interpretation of a classic mesh style wheel) and one could say that they lack the classic style and sensibilities of the panasport FS and C8s. It all really depends on what your going for or trying to convey through the outer appearance of your car. Personally I have longed for a set of HRE's for a long time and if money wasnt a huge concern I would have an even harder time trying to chose a set of wheels...HRE's, Fikse, CCW, Work, Simmons, Panasports...I could go on and on. choosing wheels and gauges have been the hardest decisions I've had to make so far on all my projects. Yes I fab'd up everything from the back of the turbo to the muffler on my exhaust, its 3" mandrel bent and cut in three sections to make it easier to work on and remove/replace. Right now its aluminized steel until I upgrade the turbo and exhaust manifold and then I will remake it in SS. I have some more pictures in my photogallery here and will have some much higher quality shots in the next few months as I learn to use my new Canon DSLR and lenses. Happy Birthday to me!

Thanks for the + comments on my Z, its been a long road that never seems to end, I just finished doing some fairly involed upgrades (E85 conversion, S14-speed)) and will be installing a laundry list of new suspension bits (Five lug conversion, SSR reverse mesh, Wilwoods front and rear, etc etc.) so I have to wonder if she will ever be together longer than shes apart. Your off to a great start, the body work so far is very impressive, of course it helps that you started with a 240Z that looks to be in great shape. Impressive list of parts as well, should be a showstopper when its all together. I've heard of the lizard skin stuff before and have always heard good things about it, but never used it. Maybe in the next go around I'll use it but by that time they will have something even better out there. You know, I hear you on the wheel situation, what you chose can easily make or break a car. Panasports though are a good classic choice, they always seem to look good on the early Z (and many other classic cars). Too bad they won't clear the brakes though, are you going with the FS or the multi piece "Racing" C8 style? The additional detailing in the C8s might be a good choice for your car as it will be a bit of a hint of what lies underneath and they would also help differentiate your car from the other Zs that have panasports on them. maybe when you order them you could just spec an offset that would allow you to use a small spacer to help you clear the AZC brakes. Nardi makes a really nice wood and polished aluminum steering wheel that's a great mix of classic style with modern touches. The rest of your interior plans should make for a very comfy and lovely smelling cockpit. I had custom doorpanels, shift boots, E-brake boots, and other interior bits made up in a mix of black leather trim with black suede inserts and paint matching orange double stiching and must say it smells great in my car! Good luck with everything, be sure to take lots of pictures and post regularly!

congrats on the purchase and the resto, I can aready tell that your resto/mod is going to end up super clean. After your first few posts last spring I wondered what direction you had or were going to go, and if you had maybe ended up buying Zhadmans old RB26 project (Does anybody know where that car went? ) Look forward to seeing some more pictures and hearing about your progress! how about a list of likely specs for your project?

I hope everythings still in one piece over there!

Save yourself some money and buy them helmets or hard hats.

I'm interested in the NOS quarters, door glass and qtr window glass. how much are you asking, and are you willing to ship to central Texas?

The thought of a 3.8L MKIII Austin Healey is enough to make me cry tears of joy. Why can't I afford one!

Sweet!

lmao, I'm not sure if you could get much more obscure than that Aux.. you should name your car the "black blood of the earth" J - That is not water. E - Black blood of the Earth. J - Whatcha mean? Oil? E - I mean, black blood of the Earth! "it's all in the reflexes."

With a story like that and tags to match I would tempted to make some sort fo wangan midnight clone...after all DWB666? The devil wears blue maybe I'm just cheezy. or lame....assign whatever name you want... When I first got my car 7 years ago my ex ex ex ex ex ex ex girlfriend hated it...she called it that POS, or the Vomit comet (it was a lovely shade of green back then.) the next girlfriend didnt say much about except it was just "too loud and smelly" The one after that never saw the car as it had just gone into paint jail. During that time my friends and family called it the ghost car becuase it seemed like it never really existed. the next one just heard about it as well and had to listen to me ramble on and on about "the Z" she ended up calling it "El Coche Incredible" , named after the Spanish version of "Night Rider" that she watched while she living in Spain. after that it became a distant memory for most everyone during its three years in paint jail. occasionally I refered to it as "the prisoner" and had dreams about driving it on an island while being chased by giant white balloons of death. after its time in paint jail I called it the ex-con with a hint of fugitive... my current partner in crime cimply calls it the "Z" while I call it the "Zed-Sled." lately though I've been toying with some sort of northern planes moniker as in "Corn-fed-Zed" or the "alcoholic" or "Lush"...not too sure on that one yet...

Sweet! Thats exactly what im going to be on the look out for around june or july...its either an STi of a cooperS. very very nice! -S

oh...thats a nice rig you've got there. I would love to get a nice medium format setup to play with.

BAH! I'm an idiot. I took a bit of a break and then went out to attack the trans again....I forgot to remove the main bearing C-clip. you know, as many times as I look at that stupid clip it never dawned on me that it was the source of my frustration.

Well, as the title suggests, I'm in the middle of the KA or 240SX 5 speed upgrade and the thing just will not come apart. these are the things I've done so far: Unbolt the two halfs (at the steel adapter plate) Remove Front cover remove all switches and sensors from the casing removed C clip at main shaft and bearing. what am I missing? the casing separates about 3/4's of an inch and then just stops. I've separated the steel adapter plate from both sides, the tail section is much looser the front bellhousing section is a bit more stubborn. I've tried using a pry bar to apply some gentle persuasion to the bellhousing side to no avail. What am I missing? any tips or tricks?

Ask some of our overseas members to get you a drivers side mirror...

Whoa! How bout some specs on the powerplant and exhaust!?! what an incredible sound!

what a great sound, looks good too!

I used to build the CSX series shelby cobras about 7 years ago (geez, has it really been 7 years?...ouch) for a multi-aspect garage that bought and sold regular cars and motorcycles, maintained all european cars and motorcycles, maintaned a fleet of vintage racing machines for the elite and built/restored original or custom cars. I quit because of the Cobras. Nothing ever fit right, it was impossible to get steady billing time because we realistically couldnt charge 5 hours to install the transmission when the book states it should take 1...even though thats what it took because we has to modify the frame rails because they were not built correctly at the factory. The same theme can be applied throughout the entire car (with the exception of the electrics). Selling them, even during the big boom of the late 90s/early 2000's was not easy, especially in a city that doesnt have alot of disposable income. We also built Westfield 7's and megabusas...we bought 7 kits, and sold 2 over a two year period (Dennis from Dpcars.net bought the first one) Logistically it was a nightmare trying to get the cars finished out, missing parts, poor fitting parts, lack of trustworthy painters and interior finishers, and uneasy buyers and thier significant others are all regular challenges we faced. the bread and butter, the one thing that kept that shop going, was the maintenance side of the motorcycle/car business. The above isnt always the case, poor management, poor timing, and poor quality kits direct from Shelby were the root of the problem. If you have trustworthy painters, and other finish-out workers your half way there! If I was building cars I would build a few first to show off quality of the product, a rolling advertisement for the shop and kit. you could expand your service to include any and all kit cars, there are so many unfinished kits sitting in peoples houses just waiting for someone to finish them out. Another thing to consider is that people that buy kit cars are typically do-it-your selfers that cannot afford to pay someone to build them a car and prefer to do everything themselves. good luck though, I would love to do that but would be afraid that the stress involved in such a venture would destroy my love for the hobby and I would want to work on my own cars ever again.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/car/410370896.html Seems too good to be true, would make one heck of a cruiser though! I've always loved Datsun of this Vintage, If I was in the bay area I would all over this car...

Max, your car is just nuts. Very proper for a post-apocalyptic world

you will want to remove the tape right before your push the hose into the fitting. The fittings are mostly designed to take SS hose unless otherwise noted, The OD of the hose is what helps creat a good seal, the thinner rubber hose will not be compressed into a good seal by the outer sleeve. That said, the do make JIC fittings in brass that accept regular fuel and heater type hose.