MrFancypants

Thats a great driver but you should really consider sticking with only one. The interior size of a Z is not very big. Put the money you save on that second W7 and buy a better amp. - Greg -

A quality 8" in a sealed enclosure will sound tight and fill very nicely. If you want a little more boom then go with 10", but I think a QUALITY 8" will sound great. A 15" is only useful if you want to piss off the neighborhood and destroy your kidneys. - Greg -

Anybody used this? Spotted it in the Craftsman catalog today. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00916462000P?vName=Tools&cName=Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&sName=Blasting+%26+Cleaning It says it continually recycles blasting media... - Greg -

Woohoo! So did you fire the last shop, run out of money, or what? Surely there is an excuse for the long hiatus - Greg -

Im probably the only mining-mechanical engineer here Can't say I've directly used much of my degree except maybe doing consulting grunt work the first year out of college. After that I ended up moving into the computer hardware/software side of mining and later into project management and now soon to be marketing/business. I pretty much figured out that your college degree is often nothing more than proof that you know how to LEARN, how to think analytically, how to meet deadlines, etc. Very little of it has to do with applying booksmarts that your future employer doesnt already have. Of course there are always exceptions to this (like research fields). As for the PE - Im in agreement with Pop that it's a waste of time. That of course may vary by discipline. It also depends greatly on where (geographically) you plan to end up. PE's are issued by state, and aren't going to help you much internationally. For example, the PEng certification in Canada is more about ethics and years of experience than the technical apprenticeship/EIT format in the USA. Having a PE may draw a greater salary but that comes with the risk of YOUR ass being on the legal line. And then there's the Australian mining industry. Typical supply and demand situation. If you wait 5 years it will be just like it was 5 years ago where you couldnt get a mining job in Oz without organizing your immigration requirements yourself. Now they will do anything to get a qualified engineer and pay big bucks too. But they have high taxes and VERY remote placements. Luckily a lot of them are fly in fly out. All in all, dont make your decision on discipline based on job availability. Find out what interests you and study that. The other stuff is far too difficult to predict. I chose mining-mechanical because I realized in 2nd year that the EE road wasnt for me and (at the time) graduating ME's had a 25% unemployment rate. The mining industry was doing great, so I got half a ME degree with better job security. Or so I thought. By the time I graduated the mining industry was headed towards a major slump and ME unemployment rates were no longer an issue. Now 10 years after graduation the mining industry is on fire again and jobs are everywhere. - Greg -

Well if Ebay is any indicator you should be asking $20K for it with Buy It Now. In all seriousness, $2K is a fair asking price considering it runs. Odds are you will settle around $1500. It's hard to say without pictures, though, especially concerning rust. - Greg -

Only way to really know is to get your oil analyzed: www.blackstone-labs.com I havent used them in years, but they have very good service. - Greg -

Man it's already been a year! My sponsorship just went poof without warning. Any chance you can add a friendly email reminder that a person's subscription is about to end? I'll be back in the "club" shortly - Greg -

The GTI-R T28 will max out around 300 whp. The S14 T28 will be a little less than that. I would go with the GT28RS (aka Disco Potato). Maxes out around 350 whp but its performance is very linear. Other T28's tend to be kind of spikey, especially the GTI-R T28 with its journal bearings. Keep in mind that you will pick up some lag over your T25, but you'll get a LOT more top end as a result. - Greg -

That's just.... sad. - Greg -

Too sharp... too angular. A car's gotta have some curves. I felt Nissan went too industrial with the 350Z -- looks like they carried it forward to the GTR. Oh well... at least it will be fast - Greg -

If it's a pristine ORIGINAL dash, offer him $250 and pray for a huge score. You could Ebay it for $750-1000, again if it's ORIGINAL. - Greg -

I'd consider buying the dash off him and forgetting about the rest of the car. That looks like it will have chronic rust issues and $1500 is a lot to take on that kind of risk. - Greg -

Everything is 10mmx1.0 on the stock brake system. If you are going to be replacing everything I strongly recommend converting to -3 AN fittings. They are more serviceable. - Greg -

The new Corvette Z06 scared me. I think that limit would be reached at around 400 whp in the S30. - Greg -

M10x1.0 is correct -- they are also regular inverted flare NOT bubble flare fittings. - Greg -

Hmm what bugs me... so many choices... People that think "it's" is possesive and "its" means "it is"... People that write "your welcome" instead of "you're welcome"... People that don't know the difference between "their", "they're" and "there". - Greg -

Man Im really surprised how good that sounds. Clever idea! - Greg -

^^ Yeah I didnt see the reason behind removing the "brake differential switch" but since I was redoing my entire brake system I removed it anyway. That's good info on the prop valve. If it's just a straight pass through for the front lines then you should be able to just bypass the rear line. But given that the front lines are the easy ones to redo, I would just pull it out because it's ugly - Greg -

You should remove the stock prop valve entirely and replace it with the adjustable. Some also recommend removing the brake warning switch as well. - Greg -

That's the fuel separator. It turns vapor back into fuel to drain back into the tank. Try replacing all the hoses as they tend to leak fumes with age. The other thing you can do is install a modern EVAP system. The original charcoal canister in the engine bay doesnt sound as effective at handling fumes as modern systems. I havent gotten around to rigging mine up yet, but it's not overly complicated once you understand how the system is supposed to work. - Greg -

Probably one of the best bits of advice I found on this forum was to use a monkey/pipe wrench to twist the bushing free after heating the bar and sleeve up with a propane torch. It pops right off and then you can cut the remainder out with a knife and sand it smooth. Note the outer metal sleeve should NOT be cut out. - Greg -

I dont understand why you would need to shim them if you are using 4 piston calipers? As long as the rotor doesnt contact the caliper, the pads should be self centering. - Greg -

Surely those are hardened steel... youre going to be there all day cutting. Just get a 3' breaker bar and jump on it to bust the axle nuts loose. That or maybe cut the outer CV's to separate them since you dont need them? - Greg -

Always loved the old Datsun Roadsters, before I even fell in love with Z cars. This one is beautiful and immaculate. The only thing that would make it better would be if it was a 67.5 2000, but then you'd have paid a fortune for it Im sure Any chance you'll divulge what you paid? - Greg -