Drax240z

Wtf?

I've got a set of 85 turbo ones that are 6 bolt pattern.

Haha sorry. At Nissan.

Quit calling play tolerance! It's not the same thing! Aaaaaaargh.

I used new stock bolts. Still have both feet. Seriously though, you aren't going to break a flywheel bolt if it's properly torqued and in good condition. I would recommend NEW ones. Make sure you get MT bolts and not AT bolts though, the MT ones are a fair bit longer.

VERY NICE. I'd be happy with that too and I'm notoriously picky when it comes to intake manifolds. Nice transition from TB to #1 area, nice plenum volume, great transition from plenum to runner, good runner length, nice plenum shape.. and nice welds too! A good example of the proper way to make an intake manifold.

Hanns I think in your case there is plenty of reason to overjet. Chances are you are running richer than 13:1 at 17psi, or whatever the target AFR happened to be for your NA setup. Certainly running that kind of power/boost I'd want to play it on the safe side and run richer than if I was running a similar non-boosted engine. There is also a charge cooling effect from running richer than necessary mixtures, which can keep pistons alive in situations where less fuel would have them melted. However with that said, you might be overjetting 10% with a blow through design just for a bit of safety, where if you were running a drawthrough design you'd be overjetting in the neighbourhood of 120% in order to get the required fuel.

Displacement has very little to do with necessary cooling capacity. Cooling jacket design, engine design, turbo integration, oil cooling, transmission cooler routing, etc. could all easily make a 4 cylinder far exceed what a larger engine requires for a radiator. With that said, a 4 core rad close to stock size should be sufficent for anything you can throw at it. You might also consider an aluminum radiator from Griffen, etc.

Overjetting a carb for forced induction typically is only necessary in a draw through design, not in a blow through design.

I hope you have more luck with their wheels than I did... Looks good though!

Most data gathered over the years suggests that a 3.54:1 rear is faster in a turbo car than the same car with a 3.9:1. Verified in some old thread here many moons ago with timeslips, feel free to search around for it.

Wow, am I the only completely anal tool box owner here? I find the best way to keep my stuff organized is to actually purchase the organizers meant for tools. My sockets are all in the top of my top box, all on the little plastic posts that you can buy, all labelled in the proper sizes. I know instantly when one is missing, and they all have a home. Keeps things easy. Wrenches are the same way, with the proper tray for them. Grumpy, it looks like your stuff is layed out in a fairly well thought out manner... similar to mine actually. Not sure what you can do to improve it!

I spent 25 hours on the exterior of mine... to make it nice enough to powdercoat.

I spent 25 hours on the exterior of mine...

A well done V8Z is a mid engined car too! Sounds to me that if Terry had some good rubber he'd have had his nose up the 914's ***... RA1's vs. Comp T/A's is no contest... 1G is completely achievable in a Z with good rubber.

You can usually grind the calipers a bit to clear... but use your own judgement as to whether you have to grind too much to be safe. The other option might be some 1/8" slip on wheel spacers which are sold in most autoparts stores.

Congrats man! I am sure many times over your build up you will be happy you went this route and found a nice solid car to start with. I know I am happy I did that when I started. Those Z therapy carbs are works of art, can't say enough good things about that product. (and the people that run the company, steve and pam) Why are you selling them? Drive the car and work all the bugs out of the suspension, brakes, etc. before you go too crazy.

Well I went with the K&N breather method a while ago and am not liking it at all on my 82 turbo engine. I end up with oil on my valve cover all the time. I don't mind spending the money to get this system right though. Right now I have some mild detonation issues, and I am burning some oil under high vacuum cruising down hills. This has been the case on essentially 2 different engines I've used with the same PCV setup, so I'm thinking now that it's the PCV system or the turbo. I know quite some time ago Tim posted up his L6turbo PCV system, but those that have built a PCV system that flat out works, post it up! Aftermarket PCV valves are useless, has anyone found a check valve that they would recommend?

Yes.

I can tighten mine up to the point I can barely move the sunvisor... yours may well be stripped.

I've got a buddy running 9psi boost on an 11.2:1 K20... Awesome street car. Not to be tried on an L-series...

Sunvisor tension can be adjusted with the screws that are near the hinge section.

I like that idea.

If you want the best: Alpinestars racewear. I'm an authorized dealer too, might be able to drop ship directly to you and save some dough. Spend your money on a high level driving school after you take care of the safety gear.

Just to clarify, the 7MGTE was the 3.0L 6 turbo in the Mark III supras.... right?