kenny_b

Amen!

The car pictured WAS a 73 240Z. I have the title. Matching vin on car. I'm currently taking it apart and have sold a few things already. However, note the 73-ish remark in the title of the thread. Almost nothing was left original as all I cared for was racing it. And I bought it as roller, which means someone else had at it before me... Some parts off it were even '78s. But the vin still suggests a 73. Anyway, moot point now... I've taken the new race car (2010 nismo 370z LS3 V8) out a couple of times and there's no going back Sure glad some people know better what car it is than me though. Almost believed I could compare numbers and letters HAHA. What vin should I find after converting to 5 lug wheels? Would that make the frame at least a 300ZX?

Thanks

I am selling my 1973 Datsun 240Z. Bought as roller without engine/trans in 2011/2012. Previous owner/s have changed the roof and various parts, so some of the stuff i pulled out was off a 260z/ 280z and there might still be some mixed parts on it. That and all the modifications pretty much eliminate this as a show car. Do not buy this thinking it can be restored to show car quality. It would take far more than would make economic sense. This is purely made to run quick/fast, not to look pretty. It's raw and needs muscle to be driven. It has manual brakes without booster and manual steering without power assistance. You need to be strong like bull. But it is rewarding! If you dare you can get 0-60 in just over 4 seconds, while carrying a passenger. I've never felt the need to put effort into it, but I am certain it'll crack the 4 second mark if you just lower the tire pressure... This is a great handling, light weight car with balls! Once you get used to its noise and raw roughness or like me, fall in love with it, this car is AWESOME! Took it to tracks and autocross events and thoroughly enjoyed the @#$% out of it every time i drove it, but I am almost done building me next racecar and I need the funds to focus and finish it up... Now to the great things about this car. I'm just going to list as much as I can and I'll save some details for when you come to see it: SOLID 1997 Pontiac Trans Am LT1 V8 with 310 hp at around 5250 rpm and a torque curve that starts well above 320 ft. lbs. from the word go all the way into the rev limiter. Max torque 340 ft. lbs. Stand-alone engine harness and Howell Engineering computer, tune-able, obviously T56 manual 6-speed transmission out of the same 1997 Pontiac Trans Am S1 Sequential Shifter that translates forward/ backward motion into the H-pattern - yeah, it's awesome! R200 rear diff with a fantastic Quaife ATB torque biased helical limited slip differential upgrade and 3.545 final drive ratio Nissan Armada CV jointed half shafts LED sealed beam replacement headlights with aero covers Both, front and back bumpers lightened (not good for crash resistance, so be aware) Fiberglass bumper covers, front and back, front with lower air dam Fiberglass fenders Fiberglass hood with vents and secured by lockable aerocatch latches Fiberglass cowl Fiberglass flares Wilwood brakes (almost 13" all around) with 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears - high temp fluid, track disks, track pads, biasing valve installed Complete Arizona Z car suspension kit with billet control arms etc pp, which keeps the rear control arms straight while the vehicle is lowered! 5-lug Rota wheels 17x9 front and 17x9.5 rear with Nitto NT01s in 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears Autopower bolt in 10 point roll cage NRG hub and deep dish steering wheel with quick disconnect and lockable cover Custom light weight polycarbonate dash board Dakota Digital gauge cluster with 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer and couple neat functions Ignition activated dash cam with GPS Corbeau racing seats on sliders, forth and back adjustable! Schroth ASM harness belts Fuel-Safe bladder fuel tank with functioning level sensor and external high flow filter and Mallory pump Fiberglass deck lid spoiler American Autowire chassis harness Clean California title Made in 1973, this car is PRE-smog and does not have to go to smog inspection! Current registration Asking price $12,500.00 Located in San Diego

http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s30/?4:b:1

oh. just looked at it. don't have one that looks like that, sorry...

That was me mentioning the different color... Glad you didn't take it! Good luck with your search... And your grad and finding a job and...

Oh, and since you're doing this, I found a battery distribution block to be a very neat thing to have. In case you are putting your battery in the trunk or so that is...

I used a VERY thick wire (4 gauge I believe) and crimped some battery-terminal ends from my auto parts store on it. Works great. For trouble free longevity though, I'd have to agree with dr_hunt; nothing beats soldered connections, even though you could just crimp it and look at it in one year or so and see, if anything is wrong with it. Leave a little extra slack on it, just in case it does go bad and you need to cut a fresh end...

It has a few nice things like the msa body kit or the rims (if you like 'em), but the drivers side floor pan is bad. Usually rust doesn't just appear in one spot, so make sure you poke other spots from underneath. Generally, a car with a shot interior and not run for over a year would not be worth 2000 to me. The oil pan looks like oil did leak, running down on it. The different paint color inside the trunk could mean it had a rear end collision at some point, and the fact that the guy has two transmissions leads me to believe there was something wrong with the original transmission, I'd assume the one installed, since the automatic shift lever looks original. Now, not seeing the car I don't want to discourage you, but I do strongly recommend to take it to a car shop and have it thoroughly inspected. Rather lose 100 bucks on that than waste 2000 on a car that may or may not only be worth 500, if that. Either way, good luck with this or any other car you will get! Kenny

do you have a picture of what you are looking for? I have 2 rims that size off of a Z, but no clue what they are...

ANPlumbing.com has 'em all, but as stated below, get the AN-3 fittings that connect directly to master and slave cylinders - more fittings = more trouble sources... Bleeding an OEM slave cylinder is a @#$%^. For the 1993 - 1997 Camaro/ Firebird (external slave, not hydraulic throw-out) you have to take the slave off, hang it lower than the master (in Z-cars they usually are lower), open the reservoir, push the slave in about 3/4 to 7/8 and hold, close the reservoir and then pump the slave in and out until no more bubbles rise. This is especially hard if you have a non-transparent reservoir, since you can't see whether there are bubbles or not. I had fun and I have no idea if it even worked. Will see when the driveshaft goes in and I can test-run the engine... Cheers, Kenny

Yeah, but this wasn't your thread, 1badzx - I still do need the hubs! However, I was offered the calipers (see below) and bought them. Hubs, anyone?? Thank you!

Cool! My email is kenny_b at web.de

$50 sounds very good! Can you shoot me a picture or two?