luseboy

That looks really good, any idea what size spacers they're running? I want these wheels but i'm flared and I don't want to run massive spacers

Do you own a measuring tape? A little time spent thinking and a measuring tape will answer these questions for you

Interesting. I guess my comment of "fairly new" was un-educated. How long did you run that flywheel? And how much power were you making then? I'm probably going to be making around 150 (stock zx L28 (P79, f54 w/ flat tops), 4bbl carb, typical header, exhaust, pertronix ignition), so i'm not too worried about it. I know people always worry about flywheels or pressure plates coming off with these cars due to the placement of them in correlation to the driver, but has anyone acctually heard of one flying off, cutting through the bell housing and chassis, and injuring the driver? I bought new nissan flywheel bolts to be safe, and will be using grade 12.9 M8 bolts to hold the pressure plate on, but would it be a good idea for me to make a scatter shield? if so, any pics of a good example of one?

No bubble bursted, most of the parts on my car will be replica parts (college kid ). That said, the azc flywheel is fairly new and not all that widely known, right? I found this clutch through a different retailer (it's made by a pretty big company, not sure if you've heard of them), for like 300, but then found the same flywheel on ebay for 275 shipped. It seems like a really nice flywheel, and if it's a replica of the azc flywheel, that's fine with me haha. but what i'm trying to get at is whether or not it's the same flywheel, as it seems to be to me.

My pressure plate is able to bolt on with 9 8x1.25 bolts, and 3 little studs. The pressure plate only has 9 bolt holes but the flywheel has a number of them, I would think to facilitate a 225mm pressure plate? I'm glad to hear that you like it! I was sold on the azc set up, but started running out of budget for my resto, and the comp clutch flywheel looked exactly the same, had the same specs, and is a reputable company so I figured I'd save a hundred bucks and go with that one. I'm pretty happy I did as I'm pretty convinced now that they're the same exact flywheel.

So I bought a competition clutch flywheel off ebay. It's a 12lb CNC machined steel flywheel, similar to the AZC flywheel. Works for any Z clutch (225 or 240mm). In fact, looking on the AZC site, the flywheel looks EXACTLY the same. Now the only difference i see here: AZC charges 369 plus shipping for their flywheel. I bought this comp clutch flywheel for 275 shipped (no tax either) off ebay, brand new in box, from a big retailer on there. Retail price is pretty close, $295 or something. Now I don't want to point fingers, but the AZC pressure plate looks exactly like a 280zx pressure plate from comp clutch as well. Anyone know if azc just re-sells competition clutch stuff? I know they're a reputable company but the price difference is kinda much. Anyways bottom line, just wondering if anyone's using one of these or not. I tested my clutch set up-comp clutch flywheel, xtr racing stage 2 (aka ebay crap) clutch disk and pressure plate on my bathroom scale, and it came out to 30 lbs even. I also measured and the comp clutch flywheel's mounting surface is the same thickness as that of a stock flywheel. Also there are little drill marks on the back where I can see they balanced the flywheel so I would imagine it won't have any hop or anything (can't say I can trust the pressure plate to be of the same quality). But anyways this flywheel seems great and I'm pretty happy I bought it, it's the cheapest lightweight flywheel I could find too, and I trust it more being steel. Who's got some insight on this?

There's a video on youtube of a 280z with an edelbrock 500. I read up on it a bit and will be running one of the edelbrock 500 1801's, which has the air valve secondaries. It'll take some tuning and most likely jetting, so it won't be like the holley 390 where it just needs a quick tune out of the box, but it will hopefully work well. This will be on my arizona manifold that i bought slightly used off a wrecked 260z for a good price

You didn't know that porsche is the only company capable of making a performance oriented flat 4? It's literaly impossible for any other company to!

My vote goes with a porsche sticker on the strut. Who's gonna be "interested in buying this car" and talk to them about the front end?

I wish I had seen this trick before I went at my insulation. I used a heat gun and a chisel. It all came off but not very cleanly, and I spent a lot more time on it than I would have. That was a year ago now, still working on rust repairs

if it's the very common door gaurds up and down the side of the car, they are held on multiple different ways. On my '73, they were riveted on in about 10 different places on each side of the car.

Interested in this as well. I decided to go the custom route, but have yet to really get them drawn up or welded in/cut to size/shape. I will be welding in a custom rear strut brace, and making a custom front one as well. I will also be using a kirk racing bolt in roll bar, but aside from the custom frame rails, have not decided what other frame reinforcing will happen.

There is no engine management system in a 240 or 260z, and the one in the 280 is pretty crude compared to a more modern obd2 system. Sounds like you should buy an iphone and a mount for it

I want to say the RIPS Z has a ford 9", but not positive. I know someone in australia has it, saw a pic somewhere. Maybe check auszcar?

Yes I got them on ebay, but from a user called "Jendosa1" who apprently isn't selling anything anymore. Anyways I wouldn't be surprised if they're the same ones your referring to. I'm not sure what the deal is, I ordered a G nose from Justin and it was here (northern california) less than 2 weeks later. He is bad with communication, it's his second job. Anyways I'm very happy with my flares, I wasn't expecting all that much out of them but they seem to be great!

Sorry for the instagay picture and link (on my iphone) but here's a test fit of mine. I recently finished that quarter panel, i gotta order some longer bolts for it, but i'll post some good pictures soon. These are ebay flares, and I will not be using welting of any kind, they don't need it. The only problem i've had is that I cracked one of them, i might add another layer of glass to them to reinforce them, haven't done any glass work before so i'll have to learn how to do that. Overall i'm really happy with them.

Is money an object? These kind of things tend to get very expensive very fast. I bought a ground control kit from techno toy and made my own with illumina shocks. The car isn't done yet, and I haven't driven on them, but the quality is very good. Allows for stock hats/camber plates as you want, and isn't super expensive (i'm a college kid on a budget). I'd steer you in that direction.

The resevoirs are removeable. You could switch them if you want. I'd think it'd be better to leave it as it is, as the front brakes are vastly more important than the rears. But someone more knowledgable should be able to tell you for sure.

As far as I'm aware, the 240z through 280z used the same master cylinder. You might be confusing the 280zx 15/16th's master for the 280z 7/8th's master. Unless you're confusing the brake booster for the master cylinder? Some people use a 7/8th's master even with a rear disk package. It is, however, reccomended to use a 15/16th's master out of a 280zx. Personally, I plan to use a wilwood 1 inch unit as I am upgrading the front and rear brakes to a much better system. I'd say try them as they are and see how it is.

I can tell you that I ordered some off ebay (from the linked seller) for $120, and I am very happy with the quality. They are so nice that I won't even need to use rubber welting. I did crack one installing it but that was because I installed the riv nut in the wrong place and I was getting angry and not paying attention. It will fix right up with some fiberglass resin. The ebay ones are somehow very nice. Classic Datsun ones are supposed to be awesome too, idk if they make carbon ones or not.

I like the looks of these, I might go for them. Are you running spacers, or is that how they fit without spacers?

Interested in your fuel cell set up. I am planning on using that same fuel cell. How are you gonna mount the filler neck? Also I believe you have the fuel cell mounted backwards, you want the sump at the back so when you're driving uphill, the fuel will get picked up. I could be wrong but that was the impression I got. Anyways if you have the welding skills to make that frame, the floor pans are a piece of cake. Are you gonna have to completely replace them? Or just patch them up? Car looks great overall.

Interested in this as well. I have decided to go the fuel cell route (acctually the exact one you linked) but it would be nice to be able to use the stock filler location. It isn't a deal breaker if I have to open the hatch to fill up, but I'd prefer to use the stock location if possible. Anyone?

I'd say get the car into a good alignment shop. Doesn't look like your car is driveable, but when it is, try and get it as close as possible, and drive to whatever good one you know, first thing. I plan to take my car to Dependable Tire & Brake in San Rafael when I get it up and running, heard great things from a few guys I know.

Mark, you've got an email.