Clifton

I think they are a bit softer. I couldn't find any info on the Yokos as far as compound options though and mine are were way to old and hard to use a durometer on. These Goodyears are FA fronts too and are the softest available, E070 compound. I haven't had it on a road coarse yet and this is my first autoX with this car ever so I can't give a real good comparison but they seem to stick pretty good.

Goodyear 23x9.5x15. They are on 15x10's No BOV. Exhaust is 3" with a 3" Dynomax ultraflo 6" race muffler (3.5" internal diameter). I wouldn't run just that on a street car. Can't tell here but it isn't much quiter than straight pipe. It is about three times as loud as my other car.

I had a bad ground or connection somewhere on one of the ecu plugs. It was showing hieroglyphics on the programmer at times. The car sat for a few years and I guess the moisture got to one of the connections. I unplugged everything and wiggled and plugged them back in and it was good.

Ya, that was Bryan. ZDrifter was out there too but he ran later. I don't remember that exact time but my first 3 were in the mid 37's. Last run was a 36.7 (softend the rear a little)

Had to share. After almost 4 years I finally have a place to work on and store my other Z that has been sitting uner a tarp in the weather. I threw it together in 3 weeks to make this event, head was warped, tires cracked, needed a surge tank, fuel pump, LSD installed, brake master, turbo, exhaust work, ect. I drove it on the street real quick the morning before to make sure it would still run right. It wouldn't rev over 6000 (I have fixed since) but atleast it ran. I latter found it was a little loose too but still quite a bit quicker than my 73'. I know autoX vids aren't the greatest to watch but here's the first run. Click here to watch 1021autoxrun1

I wouldn't want a little toe out (street 1/16" out or 0) on that. atleast 1/16" in. Don't need camber either. More caster would be good.

Your ride height would depend on wheel diameter/tire diameter. What diameter are your basing them on?.

I like the it (plane scheme with green with red zero). I painted mine about 10-12 years ago and haven't had anyone say anything negative to me. It is about the country of origin, not politics.

I'm pretty sure coyotegary on here has. I don't know what cam he had in it but it was not stock.

If you ever plan to do alot of mods you might want to just go standalone now, especially if you need a AFM and ecu. Above 12 psi on the stock ecu you will need to start piggy backing with atleast an fcd or larger AFM. If you get a stock harness make sure the insulaltion on the wires going into the connectors is still soft. I had to fix the O2, and temp sensor plugs and one knock plug on mine.

Your front mount is backwords.

I just have SDS EM4-F in the window. It would scroll to the pregrams but not gauge modes and now it won't scroll at all. Have spark, just no fuel. Everything worked great last time it ran 3 years ago. Anyone else have this happen?

I can't speak for the 280 a/c as I have a 240 but if it is anything similar I would get R12. R134 would not cut it on mine out here, R12 doesn't over 105* for very long. It is still easy to find, around $20-30 a can. 3 cans is more than enough. 2 did my 240. You can get just compressor seal, they are easy to replace if yours was leaking. I did mine. I would changed the dryer and any O rings in the system, if 280's use them.

I stopped by Bryans shop today and got a ride in it. It is pretty fast for only 10psi. Easily felt like my 7M Z did at 17-18 psi. Seemed to spool pretty quick too, quicker than I would have thought. Can't wait to see what 20 psi does for it.

I run a stock prop valve with rear disks and have no problems locking the rears up first if I want.

Boost or HP doesn't matter, just looking for a torque curve. A 69 trim turbine with either a .58 or .68 hotside would be great too.

IIRC T3 turbines are around $170. I don't what what you have in mind for power goals in the future but by the time you are down replacing the turbine, compressor wheel and bearings, you are aren't far from a turbo that will support a bit more power. If you do rebuild it place the piston ring with the end gap pointing up.

I also add timing after peak torque as the revs increase but am a little more conservative at peak torque (full boost) to be safe. You could also add another 5-6* up to 0 psi and a little more into boost. With your low CR you should have a problem. Isn't it hard to decipher what psi and vac is in %?

I would do this too. The 15/16 MC's I've seen have a different insert were the push rod hits it. On my 71' I had to lengthen the rod quite a bit. Also The factory prop valve is not your problem as far as a soft pedal.

Do you have a .007" bend in the shaft or .007" play? If it was touching due to worn bearings that's one thing. If the turbine shaft is bent I would toss it.

I don't know the PN, but yuo might find something here. I had other links but lost them. http://witchhunter.com/injectordata1.php4

When the wheels are balanced they remove material from where yours is missing, the back side along the edge and around the center where the nut is.

I guess it would depend on the fuel pressure. Either could be right.

That's not a turbine wheel and those aren't chips. If the wear on the inducer isn't too bad you can run it or get an new one. They are cheap. $30-40. Minimum, you want bearings and a piston ring, around $20-30 or if the thrust bearing is gone (fore and aft play) you may as well just replace everything and buy all the parts. It would still be have the cost of a new Ebay turbo that isn't going to bolt up. I would go with a used Holset first.

Titan engine