Clifton

I would figure ou thow much boost you want to run. Lets say it's 15-17 psi. With a stock T3 or T3/4 with a stock T3 turbine you will be making a little over 250 rwhp. With a larger T3/4 or full T4 you can be making 350rwhp.

I only have rub issues with MT DR's on big dips. With the V700's or 555R's it's ok. To get a regular 275 on a 9 to fit isn't hard but the offset has to be within 3mm of perfect. I think people are having problems because they are off 5-10mm one way or the other.

If I can get a 17x9 to work, I think you can get a 18x9.5 to work, just not with that spacer. You just need to pull it in.

R31 Skylines used longnosed R200's and bolt in. R32 and up are shortnosed. I assume the RB25 came in the R32+

Those are nice looking wheels, good price too. Where did you get them? I think you are going to rub though, actually I know you will. You are about flush with the outer lip now. That is one rub point, the other is about 1.5" above it on the inside of the fender were it starts to taper in. I would see if you can get those adapter cut down or try them without the spacer. It looks like you have about .75" between the wheel and coil sleeve. I have about 1/8" clearance between my sleeve and wheel and that's after I ground a flat spot on the sleeve and still rub on the fender/body somtimes.

There are atleast two different compressor seals. I don't know which one you need by looking at that kit but if there is a local turbo (diesel) shop near you you can get what you need for less. You don't need some of what is included in that kit.

Ya, a light tap is all it should take to get it out. When you go to stick it back in with a new ring, get the piston ring seated down in as far as you can and give it a tap to get it back in. Put the gap facing up. Don't forget the heat sheil too.

From there website 24"x12"x4"(inch) 600x300x100(mm) ( Bar & Plate Design) FMIC [iC-GY100 $177.37

That's the same one I run. That's pretty cheap. It didn't add any noticable amount of lag.

Do a search for reaction disk. Sounds like that might be it.

Pretty cool. let us know how it does. Is that the wastegate poking up out of the intake manifold? If so You might want to route the dump back down.

You can also modify the stock tank to intank pump with baffle. Just need a donor tank.

Did you clapm it in a vise and tap it with a hammer ?I would try some heat on it. If it's propane it will take a while. A torch would be better.

That's great you figured it out and got it running good again. Nothing is worse than trouble shooting.

That's pretty cool. I used an old aftermarket hitch on mine and made a bar similar to yours that mounted behind the stock bumper to support the hitch and the other end bolted to the spare tire well. I towed a small trailer everyday for work for over a year until I painted the car and got something else for work.

Ferrari 288 GTO has a 2.9l V8

If you can weld I would do the technotoy style ones. It is much easier for quick adjustment, espcially at autoX between runs. You can change the camber on the weld in style on all 4 corners in less time than you can do one of the msa style ones. May not sound like a big deal but if you drive to the track/corse, have to put your camber in, run the car and then put your street camber back in, you'll see the benifit. http://www.technotoytuning.com/productlist.php?vehicleid=11

I wouldn't go by what most people do for timing on this board. I've seen some of the worst timing maps on here. Scottie-GNZ's on your list link is a pretty good general safe one though. nosebleedZ, does it occur under cruise and load or just quick throttle openings?

Sorry but that's the worst idea I've heard of for setting timing on a turbo engine. nosebleedZ. Does it miss at cruise, light load, and WOT at those revs? You said it was a little better with an n/a afm and it seems to be lean by your narrow band O2. I would try using one of your spare afm's and soften the spring up some. Just mark it before you start messing with the spring tension. You could also connect a voltmeter to the afm and measure the 0-5 v signal while driving. An analog one would be easier to read with the sweep.

I don't know what wheel it is but it's not a T4. You can measure the wheel to be sure. Without knowing what wheel is in it you don't know the flow capabilty of it. Could be smaller than the stock Z wheel. Even if it were a T3/4, there is more to it than that.

Still don't know why people want full boost at low rpms. It's not a diesel. The answer you aren't going to want to here is that your turbo is poorly matched. You would be better off with a stock turbo for your driving style. Your compressor is too large compared to the turbine side. Having a compressor that flows 500hp but a hotside that's barely good for 300hp is a poor match. Low rpm surge is the result. You can increase the hotsdie a/r, increase the turbine wheel or both. Yes it will add lag but it will also add HP and get you out of the surge area. Then you can floor it at 2k with out having surge. Another option would be a roots type supercharger. Full boost off idle.

Ha, ha, that would be a long drive just for a BBQ. Ya, the rest should go alot faster. I haven't decided on the stucco yet. I may pay someone for that. It would be alot easier thatn dragging around my scaffolding. The door is 16x8.

What was your high side pressure? As the revs increase the high side will go up some and will go up some more if it's hotter out.

I set the last block today. I didn't think I would ever finish the block. Trusses are coming next. I'll post more pics when I get more done.

You don't need a stiff spring for high boost. I wouldn't try making it too complicated.