Clifton

An anti surge housing will move the surge line farther to the left. It also will add a little to the time it take to make boost. There was a few threads on Supraforums about a year ago with dynos that showed the difference, Wasn't alot but was noticable.

It has more to do with gap than plug brand. What's your plug gap? The more boost the tighter. On mine anything over .023" misses, I run .020".

It's not a bad idea to weld the spiders to the carrier too. Lemans cars don't have too many tighr turns. That's were a welded diff is the worst. Every track in Az has atleast one turn that would kill me.

I would get the engine in first and see what kind of room you really have.

Looks great Gary, you guys do awsome work.

The lack of thickness won't be a problem. I used aluminum tube to hold the threaded sleeve up on my 71' after I ground off the weld bead. I spaced it up off the bottom at the knuckle. Haven't had any problems.

5zigen F 17x8 235's R 17x9 275's

Not so. I know what they are and I think he posted what they are.

I ran a welded diff in my truck for about a year before buying a locker. No problems in the rain. Maybe if I was 80 and decreped it would have been too much. I run one in my 71' 240 but it is coming out for a lsd. It does clunk on tight parking lot type turns but when rolling is fine other than a little extra push.

Yes you can run a gt42 on a 2l or a 2.8 liter engine but running a turbo that can flow enough air for 800 hp also has to exit enough air for 800 hp. The mods you've listed are good for 400-450. Why run such a large turbo if you don't need it for your power level? 2" thick IC and 42lb/hr inj are on the small side, Lt-8 is Microtec not Electromotive. Why run an MSD BTM with standalone? I would research a little more. Beadblasting your manifold wouldn't even be on my list. I'm not trying to flame just don't understand. A turbo that can make 800 won't make it unless the boost is there. For you to get out of it what it can do you'll need race gas and boost and expect a not so street friendly powermand. I would look at a gt4088. You can get smaller hotssides from limit engineering. Alot of 3l guys run these and they come on alot faster than 42's.

Ya, no way you will have full boost by 3800. You'll be lucky to get 1 psi by then. Doesn't matter what hotside a/r you put on it. That's a huge jump from a T3/4. Running a turbo that large really is wasted on a small engine unless you are looking to run 30+ psi and have it come on way up top. Not saying it won't work but you won't really gain anything from such a large turbo with low boost other than lag.

The BBB and shipper won't get anything done, assuming he is even a member of the BBB and most small companies aren't especially ones that would send someone a part in that condition.

I feel you anger. I would call your credit card company, or debit card if it backed by Visa or MC. They are much easier to deal with. I've had to do it twice due to businesses that had a hard time crediting me back and another that just couldn't ship and wouldn't refund me. The credit card company will side with you, especially if you have pics. They'll ask for dates on when you talked to them and sent them mail so have that ready. Don't let it go past 90 days either or you'll be out of luck.

Look at what size tires you want to run before getting the wheels. If you want a 315 in the rear, a 10.5 would be the minimum. 335 would need more.

I had this happen on an L28. I wasn't running a damped pulley though. It trashed the crank and flywheel. I had it happen on my 7m too. On this the crank pulley also came loose and I think that led to the flywheel problem. I was revving it 1k higher than stock (7600), might be the reason?. It ruined the crank, flywheel, and crank pulley. When I removed the flywheel, the bolts were tight but the flywheel wobbled on there enough to create high and low spots, from the heat. I always use locktight red too. I had used an impact on these to install. When I put it back together I checked to see what I was really torquing them to. Around 30lbs tighter than they should be, so they were definitely tight enough. I droped my rev limiter to 7200, I hope it solve my problems.

They are wheels, not rims. Prime used to make some wide 15" diameter wheels that fit Z's. Look just like those.

For a sump on the tank to work good it needs to have the fuel return line emptying into it to keep it full on turns. The sump also needs higher sides to keep the fuel from sloshing out and a an inlet that traps it, one that starts on say the right and snakes around to the left.

I don't know how he did his but I tacked everything and then after I welded one side of the tab I would dunk it, dry it and do the next.

Are you running adapters or spacers? The wheels have a dual patern. Is the other patern 4x114.3? If so, you can get pretty long studs from napa that will fit so you can just run a regular spacer. Looks like you can move it in another 1/2". The spring collar with an 8" should be above the high spot on the tire so the clearance issue is just the strut tube, atleast for me it is.

I have some 8" Eibachs. I'll pm you.

If the boost are not torn and there is no play, why change them?

For the last two reasons you put. It's not much larger, cc wise than an L, They don't make much power for there displacement, they don't rev, and they are heavy. Perfect for a Jeep though. Torque come from displacement, or boost. For n/a, you would be better off with an LS1 or even an regular 350.

It's a horrible idea for a Z.

That's the same exact thing that happend on two R154's on me. How long did it take them to get that way?

A 245 is kinda wide on a 7.5". Haven't seen a 245-50, just 40 and 45's. You should really look for an 8 for that width.