Clifton

On my 73's, originaly no. I do know though. I don't run one on my 71'(road race car. They don't dump intake manifold pressure, that's what the throttle does. Just gives the turbo somewere to move the air so it doesn't surge when the volume isn't used my the engine. Low cfm and high pressure = surge. They are not designed to prevent stall, they aren't postive displacement. Infact on my truck the turbo is pretty loud when spooled, not exhasut, just from the compressor. I don't run a bov and have stalled the truck a few times at the dunes under full load, boost dropping as the revs drop, a downshift just kills it on a steep hill. With the engine stalled, you can still hear it whisstle for a few seconds, throttle closed and no rpms. It won't just stall with froma a shut throttle.

I promise, it's not noticable. I have no problems autoXing, going from 26 psi to closed throttle, to part throttle, back to full boost at the limit of lateral traction. If the throttle plate was at the turbo inlet instead of the manifold I think it would be completely different. I can say that when I ran a afm just before the turbo, it wasn't quite as smooth with throttle transitions with the length between the throttle and afm being so far. With a map sensor at the plenum, it's perfect.

I ran a Nitto DR's before the V700. I think the V700 hooked up slightly better cold on a 3rd gear roll. I'm not a drag racer so I couldn't compare them on a hot tire launch to a Nitto DR. I do know they don't compare to a MT DR in straight line traction, if that is the only concern.

Here's a better site http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/

Your MPG will drop a little, very little with a shorter diff but with the 5 spd it will put your cruise about the same as with a 3.36 a 4 spd. Most performance mods won't increase mileage, except maybe hearder and exhaust. Here's some info. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html You can find a S30/S130 3.54 or 3.9 at a pick and pull for around $50 all day long. You could even get a Z31 3.7, just have to change the pinion flange. Your 3.36 R200 is pretty rare. Depending on what someone is willing to pay at the time I would guess an easy $200+.

260 2+2's came with 3.36 R200's, unless you already swapped it. If you already have a 5spd, the cheapest way to get some pep would be to swap in a 3.90 R200. Alot of people are after your 3.36 diff so you could easily end up making a few bucks in the end. I have to disagree about the carbs. Although not the best, they aren't that bad. I had them with an L26 and had no problems hanging with a friends good running L28 240 with SU's. Check timing though.

That was done with a $200 HF tig? Wow. That's pretty cool. Turned out nice.

No. I wouldn't shave a dual purpose tire. It would just kill your mileage. If you are looking for that last tenth of a second then shaving would be a good idea, or just run them until the tread get down there. They will heat cycle the first time on the track.

Ecsta MX and Ecsta V700 is a HUGE difference. MX's are family car tires.

I have RA1's on the front and V700 ecsta's on the rear (MT DR's for the winter). They won't last quite as long as the ra1's as they have 6/32 tread comparred to 8/32, but they still last. I have quite a few AX's on them, tons of local miles and 2 trips from Az to Ca, about 900 mile each trip and there is still quite a bit of tread. Cop didn't even notice the depth last month when he pulled me over. I wouldn't run them on a car that get's driven daily 100+ miles a week but they are perfect for weekend Z's that would other wise dry rot a set of harder tires before wearing them out. If you are going for a fast tire I would get the V710 though. The V700, IMO is about the same as the ra1 as far as compound.

These make great street tires too. I'll be watching for the 245-17" size to go on sale.

Maybe 2 GT30's. It goes back to how much boost/HP you want. A GT4082 would work fine at say 5-7 psi but if you wanted to run 14 psi, maybe a GT4088, More than 15-18 psi maybe a GT4294. 22 psi GT4202. GT45's are large framed and don't use a T4 flange. I don't think GT42's do either but can be had with them.

The extra length doesn't add anything noticable in lag. I have probably another foot of tubing on mine compared to KTM's, 2.5 in, 2.75 out, 4" IC and that is up from the 2" tube and a shorter run with a different 2" IC that I originally had on it. It wasn't noticable at all.

The sooner you get boost the sooner you'll make torque. If full boost can be reached before peak torque then you will have quite a bit of torque at peak torque compared to having it come on later or after peak torque. I guess I'm trying to say that if you will have alot more torque if it spools around 2k rather than later. Once you get used to that much power it's fairly easy to control with the right foot. I know you don't have an LS motor but discplacement is about the same. Look here under forced induction http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/index.php? and see what everyone is using, look at the dyno's. It will give you a good idea when the turbo comes on based on the torque curve. As for diesel turbos, most are. Even the new GT series are used on diesels. I would look at spending a little more for something that will support the airflow you need and have more in it if you want to push it later. There's alot of cheap stuff out there. Usually it is for a reason. Z-gad on here had a turbo ( 76 gts) for sale that would suit your engine and definitely have enough air in it.

That book does have alot of info but it won't really help you with sizing all that much. Look and see what turbos similar sized engines are running at the boost you have in mind. I can tell you it won't take very much much boost for a 383ci engine to max out a 60 trim (E, I'm assuming) T4.

F1 doesn't used on board jacks. I know what you are talking about though. Truechoice or Pegausus used to sell air jacks. They had 2 models for different weight capacity.

It frays pretty easy. They say to tape it before cutting. I use a hose clamp and cut it with a cut of wheel right up to the clamp.

In your previous post everyone said they wouldn't cut it. Some even offered suggestions. I did my first track day with Autozone pads (pre internet). It is scary haveing brake fad at the end of a long straight. I ran Repco (now Axxis) Metal Masters until going with bigger brakes. I owuld get sucked into the larger caliper, stock rotor thing. If you go the Toy route go with a vented rotor.

If you even thought about a compound turbo on a gas engine, you haven't done much research. How much boost are you willing to run and you need a realistic HP goal first. Pump gas, race gas?

I knew you had them, but not the Rebello one. I'll call you.

I was originally leaning torward that one as it's definatly cheaper but a few people had problems getting it on the crank. I am assuming, but the bhj one looks to have more mass, maybe a little heavier and a little better at damping, I don't know. I know they are well known. I just don't want more flywheel bolt issues.

Oh, so the one BHJ sells is two grooves? Looks like I just need the one from Rebello then.

I know Rebello's damper is made by BHJ. Does anyone know if his design is any better for whatever reason? Larger, heavier, belt pulley smaller. He must of had a reason to have them make one to his specs.

Doesn't transmit harshness, just alot of noise. If you have obnoxiously loud exhaust you probably won't notice. If it is on the more quite side it will get old hearing the hum.

Looks good. I'm glad you went with the 275's. If you hadn't, you probably would have wished you did.