Clifton

Full kit, I don't know. You could use a stock ex man, stock turbo and oil lines, AZC or other 4bbl intake, your choice of carb, I would use a Holley and then find a pressure bonnet. I know twm made them for Webers. I'm sure a 4bbl one would be even easier to find.

Holly shite, I forgot to resize that one and it looks like you can't edit your posts now. Nice. Here's the smaller version of it if a mod wants to put it in there.

I finally got the inside done and moved my stuff from the front garage into this one. I left the compressor in the front garage and ran an underground line to this one. It will be nice not having to listen to that thing kick on and run. I still have to stucco the exterior but atleast I can use it now.

I know you could find someone at SEMA that would to it.

Usually the piston seals on them go first. Look at the turbine wheel. If it's oil, it's gone. Compressor seals go too, I just haven't had one go.

7mgte is not an easy swap. On the chance of sounding rude, which I'm not but it's hard not to sometimes on the net. If you have to ask for a parts list it might be beyond your ability right now. Sizing the turbo is easy, scrounging what is needed to do a carbed turbo setup is pretty easy too. You could have all the parts for a blow through set up in a day. Suck through might take a little longer and require a custom manifold .

If it is anything like the tank that was in my 73 when I got it, you will have to have it boiled, acid dipped or whatever caustic thing they do to make it like new. I wouldn't waste your time with the pour in treatments if it is bad. It doesn't take much to plug up a filter and you don't want it coming back on a trip. I was quoted around $75 for an acid dip. Get it out, remove the fuel sender and shine a light in there.

That Turbo Tom kit isn't available anymore. 320 rwhp on a stock L with a turbo is pretty easy, even on pump gas.

Speed doesn't cover WRC any longer but for thoise that heaven't heard. http://timesonline.co.uk/tol/sport/more_sport/article2461339.ece

I have about every pic in your gallery saved. Awesome car . Liked the Misfits too. 335's in the rear?

Sounds F1 ish once the revs come up. Very nice.

Are you using the stock shoulder bolts? I never had problems with mine coming loose ever. I think the impact on a small diameter bolt is looking for trouble. There are torque specs for a reason.

If you have a restriction, clog, or failing fuel pump, that 30 psi at idle will drop a huge amount when the revs come up with some load. Disconnect the vac line to it and see if it steady as the revs increase or better if you can see it while driving at WOT. If it stays pretty much at what it is at idle( assuming the vac line is off), it's the regulator.

It won't bolt to it without an adapter. You can get them at http://www.mazworx.com/store/?event=displayProduct&product=59 You can use a TT or n/a Z32 trans or I belive the V6 truck trans, it has the shifter on the trans instead of the remote exted mount. The n/a and tt are the same internally for sure, probably the truck too as it's the same trans model. Use a VG flywheel. VH's are pretty wide. Don't know how much width will fit in a Miata. I don't think you will benifit from a Z33 6 spd. IIRC,they are single overdrive, just alot more shifting. You'll have more torque with a 4.5. I would rather have the T56 if I wanted a 6 spd.

I bought two cars here. http://iaai.com/locations.aspx . Even after the yearly fee you can still get a Supra with trans, wiring, ect, cheaper than just an engine on ebay . Just watch weekly. I paid $600 ish for a low mile one with nice wheels and $300 for another.

I RUN THESE TIRES ON THE STREET. I ALSO RUN V700's ON THE REAR. I said as far as tread depth. I didn't come up with 8/32. Toyo did. Debate them on that. Based on the mileage the car will be driven they would last. Yes I know what they look like after 3 years of weekend street driving they are on my car right now. They get down to the wear bars. same as any other tire that get to the wear bars. They have the same tread depth. Just RA1's have less voids. Do as EVERYONE does with street tires at the wear bars. REPLACE THEM. With RA1's they are still useable and can easily be sold though as track poeple don't mind them and like them worn this much.

They have 8/32 tread depth, same as any other high performance street tire. Unshaven, they are more than fine in the rain on the street if you drive sensibly.

No, there's a local place to me that has them for the same price, so I got mine there.

If it's a weekend only car the tires you mentioned will last 8 + years and become hard before you wear them out. The last 3 years the tire is so hard you'll want to replace it. The tread wear will give you a good idea of how hard it is. Those es100's are fairly hard. I had them on a Z31. Great if you want to get 60k+ out of a tire. I would run an R compound tire. You really don't drive enough to wear out a regular set of tires. This would be my first choice as it has good tread depth for an R comp tire. I run these, my favorite street tire. It will easily last 3-4 years on a weekend car that isn't tracked. May cost a little more but if you want to stick this is it. This will have twice the grip of the two you listed. Life will be shorter but you'll enjoy them much more. http://www.bmwwheels.com/bmwwheels_toyo_tires.asp Another R comp, same tire Elises come with as a daily tire. Kinda pricey http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp?make=Yokohama&model=ADVAN+A048&tirePageLocQty= Another good tire would be the Nitto NT-01. http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findTireProductCategoryDetailBrnd.do?tpc=NITHZ8&tp=Competition&tc=NITHZ7 That Falken 512 is a granny tire, would be great on a Buick:biggrin:. I would atleast get a 615. They don't come in his size though.

You don't need to remove anything on the front. If you did want to, you would still need the carrier out first. Stick a pipe in were the stub axle goes and yank or pry under the carrier. The only thing holding it in after the caps are of is the carrier bearing preload. Some ring gears are on the carriers pretty tight. If yours is, after you get it off, the easiest way to get them back on is heat them up, oven works good or torch.

I've arced and miged them. Mig is alot easier to clean. Don't have to knock the slag off. If your welder has the amps, mig is fine. Heating it up isn't going to get your penetration any better if yuor welder lacks the amps.

Ya, you can't do it in the housing. Keep track of what side the shims come out of when you pull the carrier out and it will go right back in. Penetration doesn't look all that great either. You use a 220v or 110? If you have 110 I wouldn't try again.

What you do with your car would help in picking a tire. AutoX, drag, high HP street car, weekend car, daily high miles and wants something that lasts or 50 miles a week and wants something that will last a year or two but stick.

Yes, the carrier turns as it is bolted to the ring gear. Welding the spider to the carrier is the strongest way to do it. I've done quite a few the same way.

[quote name=Tony D;802642 Driving a non-BOV equipped car that runs high boost will reveal some really strange things' date=' like 3-4psi at small throttle openings, going instantly to say 20 psi at WOT. It modulates just like the power delivery of an N/A car when driven like a hot-cammed N/A car. [/quote] BOV should be closed under boost. Difference between the bov and non at 4 psi and 20 psi would be the same.