Clifton

I was just out at there last Sat. If you do go, post on here. I'd like to check your car out.

I wouldn't mind seeing a dyno pull or sheet if that's what you have. I could care less how quick it is or it's 60', just how fast it is. I know there are alot of Z's on here that are capable of a fast mph but the owners aren't 1/4 mile guys or would rather the 1/4 mile lead to turn 1. Putfile.com will host vids and is easy.

Mines a street car first. For me, I'm fairly happy with my power but 3 liters off boost is still just 3 liters. The turbo needed to make 600 rwhp has a lot of lag on a 3.0. Yes you can use n20 to spool it faster but it takes the fun out of a street car. It would be nice to run the same size turbo with more discplacement, have the same over all power but have it come on at 3k instead of 4500. If I wasn't partial to 4 valve V8's I would go turbo LS1 or LS6 in a second. The torque curve would be insane. If yours is mainly a street car, look at some dynos of similar engine setups, not just peak HP or torque but the torque curve.

The AJP8 looks like it would be the best option for a swap. They claim 266 lbs for it, amazing. Anyone in the UK know were to find one with a 5 spd?

I wouldn't say it's not wrong. More of a design issue. 7M's, 3VZ, early 5VZ, alot of 1FZ's all have head gasket problems, maybe some others I don't know about too. A higher torque will help but it they will leak again just as they do on 3VZ's even after Toyota replaced the head gaskets. All the 7M failures I've seen pics of and have had were all on the exhaust side too.

You couldn't of said it beter. Everytime Toyota improves on an engine the number goes up. The 7m was that last of the M's and the best of that series and same goes with the 2jz. L28 is also more desireable than an L24, RB26 over RB25.

Search a little. A stock L28T will make 250 with a little more boost. An RB20, IIRC only makes 200 hp stock. You would be better of with an SR and save weight.

When ever I have a fuel issue, I Tee in a cheapo pressure gauge between the regulator and fuel pump and run it up to the wiper blade to hold it. Just leave the hood on the second latch and see what it does when driving.

I have atleast as much torque as you with plenty of traction and haven't had any problems. IMO the R200 would be fine, especially if you don't plan to drag race it, can't really launch hard doing solo on semi warm tires. I would run 1310 driveshaft u-joints though. You are going to need some drag radials or some type of R compound autoX tires if you want to get the power down. If not you'll be roasting them at 70mph, fun at first but it gets old.

You could probably run a banjo fitting of the drain plug. Pulling fuel from the bottom compared to the top won't gain you anything though. I rinse them real good, fill it with water a few times and drain then run a shop vac blowing through the filler inlet and out the sender hole for a good half hour. You don't want any vapor in there. I've welded on 4 tanks and haven't had any problems yet.

I would look at timing first. I don't know what your timing should be at at idle but have you checked that yet? Even if you were a little lean it won't cause knock unless you are really close to the edge, which you should'nt be running under 7 psi. You running atleast 91 octane?

Sent you a pm

The LC1 is pretty cheap ($200) and cheaper than the lm1 and some others but doesn't include a gauge. You can read it of MS though and that would save some money. If you ever want to add a gauge you can for another $100. I'm not familiar with MS1, only II. I know the latest ms2 code has an autotune. You need a wideband for it. A wideband also makes tunning easier when you datalog. Just go back and look at everything after a drive and it's there. I can send you a shiort log in excel so you could see the benifit. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTS.php, check out ebay too, there's a NTK one pretty cheap that has a 0-5v output for ecu's.

I would skip on the simulator too. It should be tested by the builder. You can use a narrow band to tune but they are not that accurate anywhere other than stoich.

I've seen the orifice on those. It was a little larger than my 7M one but still on the small side. A regulator not returning enough fuel will just cause the pressure to rise though. If your pressure is good, it's good. I would try another pressure gauge to check your fuel pressure if you question it. You do have it hooked up right, right?

V10

That's tight, .020 is good for 30+psi on mine. Any kind of boost would be 15+. A 9 psi srping only got me to 18 psi before I started loosing boost in the upper rpms. Hope he gets the miss worked out.

He has a link with more pics on there.

I know this is getting off topic but Jeff, what plug gap are you running at the miss? Also a 5 psi wg spring is REALLY soft for any kind of boost even with a boost controller.

Don't know if this really needs a sticky There are alot of compressor maps out there and posts on here. S130 and Z31's up to 87'. Compressor wheel is a T3 60 trim. Standard T3 turbine wheel. Compressor flows 34 lbs/min. If you want more power, finish rebuilding it and sell it. You could go with a T4 compressor on it that will move more air but the turbine will limit power just as much. I didn't see a pic with the turbine wheel out of the housing. Don't forget to replace the piston ring on it.

Maybe I missed it in here, but what fuel pressure are you running? I assume you are running an after market FPR with that fuel rail. Also for the future. A leaking BOV won't effect the signal on a map based system and a vacuum leak would just bump up your idle speed.

Also, are your sure you have dsm 450's?

Ya, I like it alot and it does make alot of power but I don't want to mislead people and tell them it is the best swap or best motor. I bought a complete wrecked Supra for $400. If I had to spend $2k on a 7M drivetrain I would never have considered it. For what I initially spent I couldn't have done what I did as I didn't even have a good L motor in the car. On the street I couldn't use much more power but it would be nice to have a broader power band along with the same or a little more power but I need more CC's for that (turbo V8)

I'm not one for going smaller. Discplacemnt = torque, so I wouldn't consider a 1jz when 2jz are just a little more. You aren't on boost all the time. Actually 2jz's really aren't that much considering how much more power they can make over a 7M or even an RB26. If you are looking for mileage and power I don't think you can beat an LS1 with a T56. Even n/a it would be fast with just bolt ons. C5's get in the 30's on the highway too. Don't know if the JZ Getrag 6 speeds are double over drives but they are pricey. If you went 2J you could do an R154 to save money but they aren't as strong. If you want to stay import, vh45, vk45,vk56,vq35,1uz, 3uz, All would need to be turboed for me.

It's the rod bearings that are a problem for some. The car I got my engine from had 185k on it. By the looks of it it was original. I rebuilt it probably around 195-200k are the bearings were'nt too bad. I have read of others rebuilding and shorthly after getting rod knock. I know the oil level in the pan is alot lower than it should be. I run an extra quart. It's still a mile from the crank but alot higher on the pick up which I think it the problem. Yes they are alot cheaper than 2jz's but won't make near he power. Having done one I can say, unless you can get a 7M with trans (parts car) REALLY cheap I wouldn't do it. There are better swaps that will make more power with the same mods..