Clifton

-89' http://www.supra.co.nz/87tsrm/index.htm 89'+ http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_116.html

Is it a boost stumble or tunning that causes a stumble? Will it hold boost setady top redline? If the spring isn't stiff enough even with a controller the boost will drop off in the higher revs. It doesn't sound like a spring problem.

The spring setting is the lowest boost you can run. 23 psi shouldn't be a problem with a 14 psi spring. I did it ow ith an 8lb spring. Does your controller send pressure to the top of the WG or just control the signal line to the bottom?

Thanks. 5zigen 17x8, 17x9, 235-45, 275-40. They are 5 lug though. Those 17x8 Konigs are nice. I didn't know they made something in an 8 that was 4 lug.

You can find wider than 7's if you go 5 lug or spend more for high end 4 lug wheels. 225's fit nice on 7's. I ran 225-45-17's on them. I did run a 245-40 on an 8 in the front. It wasn't noticably harder to turn. Those Advans seem like a pretty good deal.

. No answer for you though.

Hmm, the 2 Nissan/Garrett T3's I have are.

No different than hose clamping a fuel line .

I've seen atleast one turbo shop that had a tool that held the turbine wheel by the blades. I had one I couldn't get loose as the nut was trimmed alot from balancing. I wrapped a rag around the turbine blades and held that and had someone else break the nut loose on the other end.

The same thing happens on mine, 4" intercooler with big condensor. AZC radiator with a/c in 110* it will climb to usually 195* (3/4 on the stock gauge). Turn the a/c off and it will slowly drop 15*. Are you using the stock gauge? I may try the Taurus fan on the next swap.

Anytime I'm in the left (fast lane) and see a car approching regardless of how much over the limit I am I move over before they have to slow. Common courtesy. I do everything I can to avoid pissing someone off as I know there are others that loose it faster than me. If this would have happened to me and I was not in the fast lane and I was in the roachy Z31 that can take a hit and be disposed of. I would have dropped it into second regardless if I was going 50 and let the S fly.

Nice manifolds. Do you have any pics without the heat wrap? I don't know how much motor mount movement you have but engine torque might put your silcone turbo outlet hose into that sharp looking hole that it runs through. Maybe it just looks close in the pic though.

Have you got the compressor nut of yet? The turbine side is part of the wheel/shaft. Only the compresser side is removable. It is standard rotation thread.

They can be tight. If you twist too much without prgress it will gall up and you'll have a real hard time getting it off without destroying it. If it's being replaced it might not matter though. I would try some heat on the wheel, propane.

I haven't had a camber plate slip and I only run 2 of the 4 bolts per side. They make quick adjustments so much easier if you weekend autoX. I couldn't imaging running the camber I do for autoX on the street.

Wow. I saw an article on a Civic, forgot about the S2000. Torque comes from boost or displacement. They make what they should given there size. It is high up in the revs though as that's what it takes to make power n/a. Not trying to take away from the FJ, they are great motors too.

2fiddy on here used some fuel line and clamped it to the knob and left the end sticking out of the bottom of the strut little. Works pretty good. Just an idea.

I have 9's in the rear with 275's.

Ball bearing.

I bought a set here. http://www.truckn-store.com/product_category.asp?id=513. You can choose the thickness so they will flush out nicely.

He used to have some intsall pics on his site. Looks like he took them down though. I cut the whole top out and mounted them flush. I had to notch my hood some too. Luckily a friend sugested I check before I paint. This is the only pic I have of mine http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104662. I used a straight edge to mark the strut center so after I cut the tops out I would know were the strut was when installing the new plates. I don't know if you have them yet but unless you get his struts too the strut sleeve is not included. This will be a problem for 99% of the people unless they have a lathe. Technotoy http://www.technotoytuning.com/ includes the sleeve.

I've seen first hand boost creep with a 38mm WG at 10 psi pushing up to 12 at redline were at 18 psi it was dead steady. The car made 320 rwhp at 10-12 psi. The higher the boost the higher turbine pressure will be. To get the higher pressure you don't need to bleed off as much exhaust. At 25 psi I was around 35 psi pre turbo with a P trim. It was almost 10psi higher with an O trim.