Clifton

Blue top DSM injectors are the same size and you don't need to swap connectors. IMO 440's are still too small unless you are keeping the stock turbo and low boost. I'm with Quin. 20 psi on a stock turbo 20 psi isn't the same as a GT40 or similar sized turbo. For what it's worth. The factory 7mgte ecu ran mine to 96% duty cycle at the rev limiter. That was with an FCD and going past what the stock fuel cut would have been at (12psi). Many people with 7M's have no problem getting 400rwhp with 440's.

It has been a while since I read it ( 4 yrs ? )but I remember someone using, I think a Maxima 4spd auto and someone using a Mitsu or Isuzu 4spd auto, just different bellhousing. They were older 4spds, not ecu controlled.

For the money and time it will take to re-tune for the 240's, I would just add another injector to the meth side and run the 72lbers. Then you can run run even higher boost. My idle pulse width is good with 700 cc/hr on a 3 liter and that's really the only thing to worry about. Going from Az to Ca. I got 1 mpg worse than a friend with the exact same set up Z with the exact same engine but he's running factory 440's on the stock ecu were I had 700's/MSII and lower CR. I have since bumped up my cruise timing so I'm probably as good or better now.

Without going back through 21 pages to see if has been brought up. I found that Lotus used a flat plane crank in the LT5 they used in there GT1 Elise. I remember it being mentioned that an LS might be too large for a flat plane but the LT5 is similar is size.

You are joking right? There is nothing exotic about the sound Harleys make. My lawn mower without a muffler sounds about the same, it actually might sound better as it can rev higher and make more hp/L. Single plane sounds more like a I4 sport bike at 10k (nice)

I called one local transmission guy looking for syncros. He said he had some that were "good". Because he said "good", I asked if they were used and he said yes but they were in good shape. He wanted $20-25 each. Based on him I would say that some trans guys are not competent. I picked up a set of new syncros from drivetrain.com for $90 and it shifts perfect now. 5th gear is the weakest. Increase torque and things will break.

Have you checked the break away torque? It sounds like it's pretty high. When I ran a welded diff it was as you described.

Late L28 gasket.

I think I'm around 20 or 22* at 22 psi ( haven't looked in a while). Always on 100+ octane though. I was just curious what others run for timing on turbo L's.

the torque scale starts at 100 and ensat 400. The HP sacle starts at 0 and ebds at 400. They don't cross on the graph but they still are the same at 5250 and would cross if the scale started at the same. ktm, what your timing at peak torque and HP?

Who told you that? They are wrong.

Someone already did (non siamesed). That's were I got the 250 cfm at 28". Most Hondas have a longer stroke than a VK/VH45 and have no problems revving on steel rods. You might not need or might not make power to 9k anyway.

The MLS gaskets are steel. I believe stainless. You have to O-ring the block to run a copper gasket.

Yes but he won't know what fits. His front hubs are .500 wider per side than stock S30. His standard 4 lug rear is .100" thicker. I think the 5 lug is 1.000" thick but can't remeber. I would ask him. I do know for a fact a 17x9" rear with 43mm offset will work on the rear with a 275 tire. You can run more offset with an 18" wheel. If you are going to run a 275 I wouldn't go below 38mm on the rear. On the front I run a 17x8 25mm offset with his 5 lug hub. I moved my LCA out 10mm so it is essentially 15mm. You could go down to a 10mm but I wouldn't do less than that. On a 9" wheel on the front it would be 35mm for flush or 40mm to be safe.

If 's a street car I would just drive it as is. Even if you can get another 5% out of the rears, will you ever really need it or use it, doubtful. If it was a track car I would run something larger in the rear, AZC or MM. A dual MC would be great but I would rather run a larger rear instead.

That's a work of art compared to mine. In-tank or surge tank is the only way to go. Sumps on the bottom don't work so great.

A cam, ported head. I think you'll want to rev it over 6k;-) Kameari sells adj., around $200. I know you can buy the 8 hole one for less but they aren't easy to adj at a dyno. If it were me I would buy a mag base and dial indicater from HF (cheap) and set it to the cam card. I managed to get mine within 1* of what the card said. I wouldn't worry about the dyno until you get your AFR's set.

I am thinking this too. I would put it in straight up for now if you can't degree it and look at the fuel for the stumble. You have a wideband?

I like it a little quiter but it is fast, n/a too ( I need a V8). How much boost is that Dodge running?

hHving a friend push the brakes and trying to spin the wheel? Even if one had half the force, you wouldn't be able to turn it. Did you bleed both fronts? Are the pads wearing evenly?

Did it stumble and miss before the cam and was the cam the only thing done before the miss? You can set the timing to stock but without degreeing it and having the cam card to go by, you could still be off 4*. Maybe more, maybe less.

To add to what jerminator said. Head flow is what makes the power. I don't know what the VK45's flow but I know the VH45's flow a tad over 250 at 28". The VK's have smaller valves too so I can't see them being any better. I also wouldn't bother increasing the stroke such a small amount. The gains per $ wouldn't get you much, atleast compared to say a cam(s) swap. I don't know if anyone makes them for the VK but they are available from a few people for the VH's. If customs it will get expensive. HP per dollar, this sounds like an expensive engine. You could probably find a VRL or used Judd, ect indy engine for about the same. I know you weren't asking but VH's use a pretty big rod compared the the VK's and the valves are larger, saving money on both. NZ guys make 500hp with the VH41 w/ a 10:1 CR and a carb. Unless money is no object I would rethink how much you want to spend to get 600hp Don't get me wrong, I like VK's but I also like spending as little as I can to make HP. Don't get caught up in Ti con rods, billet cranks, ect if it's a street car. If it's an all out class race motor, that's different.

I don't know what you did with this but running it a little low on the pressures won't slow a leak much. The volume is small and the pressures so high to begin with that dropping it 10-30 psi won't get you much other than warmer air and maybe an extra day before you run out. I gave up paying/trusting a/c guys along time ago. If I were you I would atleast buy some gauges. Then you can check and add some too if you want. You can get electric vac pumps fairly cheap too if you want to do it all. I wouldn't bother with the venturi vac ones. You can replace the shafts seal too but unless you vac and refill yourself it might not be worth doing, if it leaks the money you saved will be more than spent paying some guy to vac and fill.

I got a pair of FG doors from azc about 12 years ago. The are really light. I know he sold all of his molds but I don't know if the guy that bought them a few years ago has them or not. I know azc doesn't have them anymore though.

It's the 87+ turbo's that used the slip on 5 lug, not the bolt on.