Clifton

Thanks. I'm pretty sure it was .5 on his 5 lug. It has been a while since I put them on.It was less than the Z31 though. I think Z31's n/a are .75" or around there. I know the Z31T hubs use a slip on rotor were the n/a bolts on the back. I recall him selling a kit to someone with a Z31t hub like yours so he might have what you need. I don't know if you are buying a kit from him and then designing bracket because you have to or designing it because you want to.

The AZC 5 lug moves the front about .500". I know he was messing with a Z31 kit. Are you using Z31 hubs? They look like Z31T hubs from the pic.

Thanks, Yours look great, look wider than mine. The fit looks better too. I had to cut off about 8" on the rear of one and 4" off the other. It's the only ones I could find. I'll have to keep an eye out for your posts when you finish it.

Great idea.

In everyone else's book that's choke. I'm not an airologist, but surge is basically when the air is moving to slow for the pressure ratio and stalls. Once the air stalls it picks up velocity until it happens again. I don't remember why it stalls though. Run a turbo into surge (easy with a larger compressor at low revs in 5th). You can watch the boost gauge bounce all over and never make full boost. makes evil noises too.

Ok, so buy a Camaro, have a kinda fast car heavy car and put the HF engine/trans in the Z and have a hypermiler too. You wanted to know why you have resistance, I was just letting you know why. Notice in my previous post I didn't suggest buying another car.

Swapping an LS1 into a light weight Z makes sense. It turns a sporty car into a super car without the super car price. Putting a 80 hp engine that will get 40 mpg into a Z, to people on a board like this, doen't make as much sense as it is costing more to get what's already available. Make it fwd and stick an HF engine in it.

I may be wrong but I believe Z-gad is running one.

As Jim said. In Az you don't have to test if it's collectable w/ the insurance. I haven't been in two years. When I did go they never even noticed that the engine was swapped and it lacked any emissions equipment (charcoal, eger, air pump, ect). I wouldn't worry, if you fail you get one free restes. To the quesion of can you just lean it. If you mean leaner than stoich, no. You will get incomplete combustion and it will fail worse. Setting round top SU's correctly isn't that hard and will pass. Make sure tthe timing is what it should be too.

Yes, 300 rwhp does pull hard, it's just that it can easliy be done with an L28 at 12 psi. 300 hp along with 300 ft/lbs would pull even harder though. 400 ft/lbs isn't hard to control if you have the tires for it. I hook up with 550 rwtq. Torque is good.

This is true. The 7M isn't really that great of an engine. I had one sitting there and a Z with out an engine. It's the only reason I did it. They are limited by the head ( power comes from airflow), not bottom end strength. If 900 rwhp is the goal a 2JZ will have a miserable powerband, 6000+RPM for boost and it's not happening with stock cams (expensive), pistons, or anything less than 110 octane. An LS1 with boost can make about that with good spool and on pump gas. You can make big power out of small motors but they will lack torque, need alot of boost, octane, and rpms to make the boost. Drive an n/a Corvette and an n/a Z with about the same power to weight and ask yourself, which power band you like more.

300 crank or rwhp? What is the torque? Probably much less than the HP? doing an engine swap for an engine that doesn't make more HP at a given boost than a L28 and makes less torque doesn't make sense to me.

Your timing is more than safe off boost, I run around that at 30 psi. I would ramp up to 38* by 3000-3500 at 100 kpa and under. You can run a little more at cruise if you want but anything more than what you have should wake it up a bunch. You have to be getting horrble mileage too.

You say afr is set at 13.2. It sounds like you are having MS control afr. I don't know what code you are running but on 2.36 it needs to have a small correction factor. On 2.67 it is termed different but it needs to pull small amount at each correction to keep the afr from jumping around. I would turn off the correction, set the idle bins to were it will idle at 13.2 and see how stable it is.

If the fuel pressure is constant, your afr should be too. So, not in your case. If it's too lean it will cause a misfire though. What is your idle afr? Your pic is too small to make it out.

Thye look like new. I wouldn't run those poly TC bushings on both sides. Alot of people break the rod using them. Use rubber on the back side.

The difference between a stock turbo and the right turbo can be 250 rwhp (if you are lucky) at 14 psi compared to 350 rwhp at 15 psi with something a little bigger. If you are going to run a set amount of boost you may as well make more power while doing it.

You've seen a 2J make 600 rwhp on pump? Maybe with a GT42 and 93 octane with boost coming on at 6k, great driveablity. No way a 1J or L28 can run that boost on pump and not with a turbo I would even call close to streetable (enjoyable). Having a high power small discplacment engine (3l), I wouldn't do it again. If someone wants big power on pump and they were given a blind fold test (not literaly) of a 2l, 3l and 6l turbo Z making the same power, they would pick the 6l enigne. Torque is fun and having it with out having to go to 4500rpm and 25 psi is even better.

On my street car I've run RA1's and V700's for autoX, not on track. I picked the tire with the most tread depth and didn't shave them as I wanted mileage and fun. Nitto has the NT-01 too that has decent tread. If you need the last 10% and want to shave, I would just get a two grooved DOT tire. Look at the tread wear ratings, it's a good indicator of the how hard they are and how long they'll last.

What PP are you running? I'm running a Supra ACT Xtreme PP with the stock master cylinder and have no problems other than a tired leg. Did you put a step on the flywheel wheel?

If the rod ID and crank OD hasn't changed, my cheap a$$ would just replace the bearings and run it. Towing 13k lbs from Az to Ca first thing out would concern me though.

http://www.kinsler.com/manifolds2/manifoldsnissan.htm

Where did you get them? From what I can see, the fit looks alot better than mine. How did they fit at the rear? Any more pics?

Reliability isn't that hard but only one of those motors will make 600 rwhp all day long on pump gas and have a broad power band . 300hp isn't worth a swap, IMO.

I was kidding about he 13B.