Clifton

I forgot about the first time I ran my own car on the dyno (most guys don't let you). I thought I had to stop the rear from turning, I didn't relize it was a 3000lb drum I was trying to stop:oops:. The rotors were blue and the pads were smoking but I didn't warp them.

Never. Must be a auto trans thing. Everyone I go with has Toy drivetrain except 2 and they are also manual. With over 120:1 gear reduction you don't use the brakes much. Maybe a light tap when cresting something so you don't drop hard. I've been to the drags before a few times. Never hot spotted my rears doing a burnout either.

14.7 + boost / 14.7 = PR

I run a 235 on an 8" and it fit's good. I would go with 225's on a 7".

If you are running a 1.8 PR (12 psi), draw a straight line across the map, then draw one verticaly up from 36 lbs. Were they intersect is were you'll be at 6500 rpms at 12 psi. You want to stay in the map. The higher the % the better (less heat).

An 2.8l motor at 6500 rpms at 12 psi will need 36.5 lbs/hr. 15psi would be 41lbs/hr. This is a stock T3 map. 12 psi is 1.8pr. 1 lb/hr is about 10 hp.

The only part that would of been machined would be for the turbine wheel to fit. The a/r would still be the same. I have a .70 for an O and P trim. The inlets on the housings are identical, only the trim differs.

I'd go with the .58 T4. The hole in a T3 .63 is pretty small. The RB would spool a little slower with less displacement. You'd make it up, up top though.

Let's say you need 40 lbs/min. No T3 compressor will supply that. In that case it's not just a heat issue but you are overspeeding it. You can run a turbo into a lower eff range but it will quickly go off the map if you try getting a little more out of it. Then there is the case of getting the air out. T3 turbine wheels are small and more restrictive. That's why even T3/4's don't make big power on L28's. You can run 20 psi on a stock T3, some do but they are way down on power comparred to boost.

The seal on the turbine side is metal. No fuel can possibly hurt it. You will have to run about twice the fuel if running meth comparred to gas.

400hp crank is nothing for an L28. You don't need forged. Get larger injectors though. if you already have the L28 and parts I would do that. If you were looking for 600 hp I would go the VG route.

I don't see how you can possibly hot spot a rotor doing a burn out. Maybe after a run and threshold braking to stop and then sitting there with the brakes applied till they cooled.

I've mig'd atleast 6 diffs. 2 for me and the rest for friends. Never preheated and everyone of them has held. I weld the side gears to the carrier and then fill between the spiders a little. We have broke axles and Birfields (CV's) These are all in dedicated rockcrawlers so they see alot of abuse.

The turbo cover is .5 lb heavier than the early (non 2400) 240Z cover.

If you decide you want it let me know. There is enough length of the tie rod ends to run eccentric bushings offset all the way out. I run them on my 71'. I have AZC control arm on my 73' and lengthend them 10mm over stock so I know there is atleast an extra 10mm in them if you go that route. If you can weld a few people have cut off the lca ends and welded a tube and used rod ends there. I think 240hoke did it too and had pics.

More caster will make turning harder. I am around 4.5* and will be taking a little out. You could run offest bushing on the LCA's instead of slotting your top strut mount to gain a little more camber. You would need to space the TC rod out to keep the caster the same. You could run a softer front bar. I have a 1" bar I would swap if you wanted. I would try adding or lower front tire pressure first though as it would cost nothing.

My fronts were out a bit too. Not as bad as yours though but still needed to be turned. In my case it was the rotors and not the aluminum hats on both sides. If you have a dial indicator and base stick it on the strut housing and check it.

Thanks for the help. After your last post I went back to there site and have been there since then reading. I found the page you were talking about. http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/EDIS.htm Very bottom of the page.

I'm going to run the EDIS ign mod into the Toy coil packs. Would it still be a 470 ohm resistor with EDIS? What do you mean by terminal of 2 of the coils? I will have to search somemore. There is so much info out there. It took a few hours searching to find how to run a 3 or 4 bar map.

Money is not an issue but you want to use a turbo from another Nissan model? A Z31 turbo isn't any bigger than what you have. 7 psi is stock. If you only want 9 psi don't bother swapping turbo, WG, BOV, because it's not needed with 9 psi. If you are serious run atleast 16 psi. 60-1 T4 or GT35r if you have the money and you'll make power. The GT35R is T3 flanged, would be easier to install but still require welding. Leave the T3/4's for the 4 cylinder guys.

What tach are you guys using in the S30's. My tach has the Supra guts in it to work with the stock 7M ECU and it's not that accurate so I'm better off getting another S30 tach if they work with MS.

Yokohama slicks.

They won't clear all 15's but do clear Keizers. I want to say I've heard they clear Panasports too, but not 100% on that. Samller rotor but same caliper as the new ones but doesn't use an offset bracket.