Clifton

Maybe I shouldn't haven't said steel as I don't 100% know that for sure. Ihave heard they are steel as are steering components. I know Toyota steering knuckles weld just as easy and read they were cast steel. I maybe wrong.

If you suspect your vac adv, put your timing light back on and disconnect it and see if it moves. You can also check total timing and see if your mech adv is working. Is it backfiring out the intake (lean or timing way off) or the exhasut on decel?

It sounds like you are throwing parts at it hoping you will get lucky and fix it. It will eventually work but it is expensive. Check your timing first. If you are asking if it could be vacuum advance, that tells me you haven't checked timing it yet.

Does anyone know the weight or have a KA 5 spd laying around they can weigh?

You can use the azc/nosm rear brace with the stock mustache bar. The mustache bar needs a slight trim to clear the sway bar mounts though, only takes a minute. I have a pic on here somewhere when I did mine.

Aim it to re spin the compressor? Not that much air is diverted and it would have to be dumped into a higher pressure turbine side, not the driven side. It's like dumping a big fart. Not much you can do with a small shot of hot air. They also aren't positive discplacement. The bov opening doesn't keep it spinning faster it lets the volume go somewere so the air doesn't stall. I shouldn't say doesn't keep it from spinning fast. If one could measure the rpms (Turbonetics has turbo tachs) it might show up there but that's it. The only way to keep it fully spun is keep load on it, flat shift. As for the filter. The amount of air coming in through a bov at idle or cruise is next to nothing, like having a vacuum line off. The majority is still coming in through the filter. I guess it's one of the hybridZ over kill things.

It always happens on here.

The flutter is surge. At light or szro boost and lower engine speeds is when mine does it if too soft. It doesn't have to be under boost. You should hear the evel a T72 makes when it flutters . Datman, that is a cool pic and nice car. I like the smoke stack in the background.

The Nissan manifold isn't cast iron, it's steel. Welds pretty nice.

The dsm ones are O ring but if you trim bout 1/8 of the plastic off, you can use them with a hose too. There is enough of as lip that it will NEVER come off. That's what I ran on my truck for years. I used the blue tops. They are low Z.

I don't know about the "proper way", but I mig welded a stainless WG outlet to my L and 7M manifold and welded mild turbo flanges to both and a 3VZ manifold. I put atleast 40K miles on the 3VZ, maybe 20K on the 7M. The L28 is just race miles. Not one crack on any of them. Didn't pre heat, just welded.

Supramania, Supraforums, or ebay. I would use turbo DSM (450cc) ones though. They use the same clips as Nissan.

Mine is just barely open at idle. If I set it tighter it is too stiff to avoid surge on throttle lift, with low or no boost, but close to boost. If it is above 10 psi I can run it stiff but I can't shift at 10 psi on every shift. I have seen other bov's that are slightly open at idle, enough to mess with the MAF.

It's a mini regulator. If you have a 14 psi spring, you add 6 psi to the top for 20 psi. On mine one turn equals about 4 psi. I can't remember what mine are without looking but you really only need it to adjust from 0-30. http://cgi.ebay.com/Norgren-Regulator-Units-1-8-NPT-R07-100-RGKA-Two_W0QQitemZ170213278405QQcmdZViewItem These only work with dual port wastegates though.

If you never run less than 14 psi go with the stiffer spring. As boost increases the back pressure does too and it pushes on the WG valve. With a 7 psi WG spring you are probably close to the limit before boost starts dropping at higher revs, unless you are on a large hot side, then maybe you can get a few more psi. I can hold 38 psi to redline with a 16 psi spring. With a 7 psi spring running 22psi, boost would start dropping around 6000 rpms and be 20 psi by 6500. I run a $15 regulator style controller (in both Z's) that runs pressure into the top of the WG, dead reliable. If it fails, then I'm at the WG spring setting.

Daves car isn't finished but is at his house. I just talked to Andy and he wasn't sure if he is coming back this weekend or next weekend, maybe he'll post up. There is a NASA event this weekend so I won't be at the Pavillions.

I have always welded the side spider to the carrier too.

It looks good. I like the shaved rear. Are you going to have the front bumper on for MSA? I'll have to see it when you get back.

I can't believe no one even tired to answer the first part of the question. RB30 would make the most torque to HP. It doesn't flow as well as a rb26 and is larger, More cc's= more torque, less airflow less HP. Obviously boost or displcement make torque. You run enough boost on any lower cc engine and it will make decent torque, although not with the power band of a turboed V8 or on pump gas. Soapbox. For 600 rw/tq on a 3l engine, expect to run 30+ psi and expect to spend $6.60/ gal to have that torque and a horrible steet car power band. If 600 rw/tq on 91-93 octane pump gas is your goal then run to the V8 section on here and don't look back, you'll thank me later

I would pull a few more degress of timing even if it isn't found to be knock. Especially without the intercooler. As far as afr and knock. Gas doesn't cool to well. Unless you are on the ragged edge, which you shouldn't be, the difference between 10.8:1 and 13.8:1 isn't much as far as knock resistance goes. This is just a wild guess, but could it be rod knock or piston slap?

OMG, I know this is an old post but did you go over and find out what happened? Did the guy steal the car?

I was feeling the rage one would have if they saw what I thought you were going to type and then, the let down. That was good man.

You are down an easy 60 HP. It's not the meth and I don't think it's afr if his tune is anything like this graph starting at 1653.58, looks like third or forth gear. 10.1 is as low as it goes on the graph. As the revs increase it leans quite a bit, atleast to mid 11's. His dyno would show power picking up, not dropping so much as the revs increase and it leans. Plus his peak toruqe is on par for the boost. I would look at cam timing. Maybe you degreed it since, but last I saw you had problems making power after a cam swap. I would print the paper wheel on hybrid and check it.

Jon, this is a great idea and even better that it is posted by a mod. It will be easier to quote this to the offender that coming across rude to them. As far as keeping info. I don't know how this will be POLICED. I usually post if I can to help with those that need it, often with a pic if it will help. My PM box is always full of questions. But there are a few things that I will keep to my self. I know of others that do it too, it's part of life. Doesn't mean we/they aren't more than helpful.

It's a full T4. T3 stuff is for 1.6l Hondas. There isn't a .63 or .82 for T4. I run a .68 with a P trim on my gray Z (3l). It's a little big for autoX but would work ok for track days.