Clifton

You aren't going to damage the turbo. They glow red under load. I had to wrap the turbo on my truck as it was really close to the plastic valve cover, brake master and plastic dashpot. It saw more load/heat than most turbo cars because of the weight if the truck and big a$$ tires. I never had a problem . I was on boost from every stop light and would often be under boost seconds before parking it and letting the turbo bake .

Ya, those 13b's are killer in RX7's, much faster than L28 or V8 Z's .

I wouldn't cut it .005" unless it needs it. On the turbo. yes you can upgrade just the compressor side, making it a T3/4. Upgrading just the compressor side won't get you anymore power at stock or near stock boost levels though. If you crank up the boost and flow more air to get into the better part of the map, the turbine side becomes the restriction. I would upgrade the hotsdie too or go the Holset route.

I ran a Delat gate but never below 12 psi. I had no problems. The less boost, the larger the wastegate you will need though. If it creeps, just turn the boost up a little.

Are you set on a MLS head gasket? If you are set on a mls I woud run a 1mm if they don't take much off. I would run a Felpro (or equivalent) though, especially if 300hp is all you want.

I only deck the block if it needs it (pitting, HG grooves, ect) and it's apart. When I get heads cut I tell them, it's a turbo motor and to take as little as possible. I measure the head thickness before and after too.

I wouldn't think twice about cutting that bar out to save weight. Anything is safer than a street bike . I had an extra pair of 71 doors though so I used them on my 73.

Disconnect your vacuum source and see if the fuel pressure goes back up to 30. I wouldn't run fuel pressure that low. You should be 10 psi higher. If you can drive the car it's not the fuel pump. If it can't keep up at idle, no way it will at load.

The injectors are also a problem on Z32's. Usually starts with a rough idle that clears up with in a few seconds or minutes, then one day it won't clear up.

Oops. I thought I was looking at a Pertronix pickup in pic two and stock mag pick up type in pic three. I would think, if the Pertronix can fire a coil same as points, you can use it on the white wire. I would use the wire coming off the dist that changes on a ohm meter when spun. You can't use them all on the msd (mag and point input) I have called MSD in the past and they have pretty gfood tech guys.

With sds I use the white. When I was running off the stock elc dist, I used the purple/green wire on msd. My dist had two pickups. If you have 4 wires, it sounds like you have two pickups also. You only need two wires from one of them. Make sure you don't use one wire from each or it won't work.

This is a street car right? You are worried that 17's look bad on a Z but you want to run a 295 or 275 50-15, OMG? IMO a 275-35-18 looks the best but 18's are more $$ than 17's. Over all height is the same as a 275-40-17 though. 15's are too dated, 16's have the classic 80's side wall look. Modernize.

I ground on my Superlights for clearance. I run a spacer also.

No on the n/a inj. You will run out of duty cycle real fast. I would get 380 cc/min for lower boost. You will come close to maxing a 450cc inj on pump gas with a decent turbo and 20 psi.

If you have classic/collectable insurance and the Z isn't your only car, you can register it as a collectable and not go thorugh emmsions. That's waht I did. Like X64v said. A straight through might me a little loud on n/a. I run a regular dynomax glass pack (drilled, not louvered) for a resonator and a straight through mufler at the back too. I don't know if they even stop people in Az for noise, plenty of obnoctious of straight piped HD's around here. I think 1 fast Z runs a Borla straight through w/ 3" on his n/a car, It didn't seem too loud.

Because they don't know any better. People run Flowmaster and ride Harleys too:sad:. I would only run a straight through muffler. Dynomax ultraflow, Magnaflow, or Hooker maxflow. There are a few comparisons of mufflers on the net and one Turbo mag did 12+ years ago. Straight through ones come out on top, Chambered (baffled) Flowdisaster on the bottom.

http://race-cars.com/engsales/other/1200038700/1200038700ss.htm

If money is an issue and if the swapped engine will be left pretty much stock, I would keep it L28. A stock internal L28 can handle the same boost a stock internal RB26 will take. Yes an rb will make more power at the same boost but. If you are set on swapping and going to keep a swapped engine stock, I would do an LS. No point in putting in an RB26 and running stock turbos, inj, boost, ect.

If you have camber plates you can crack it in at the track, if not 1* for both would be good without too much wear. I would do a street toe setting, toeing out for autoX helps but unless you are a front runner don't bother. If you are only running 1* in the front I would run more front pressure, especially if it has softer springs and sway bar. If they are anything like S30 Z's I would start at 42 psi min front, rear you can get away with less.

You don't need the resistor with the msd. I ran a 6al with just a stock elec dist and never had a problem. Maybe it's the allison ignitor thing?

Sounds like you aren't running a fully programmable efi yet. It's hard to get the timing set perfect so you set the trigger offset (with the efi software) so your timing on your map matches the pulley. For example, efi software says 10* but pulley says 15*, you remove 5* in the trigger offset so they match. From there you just type in the timing numbers you want.

It would not run rich with a restrictor plate just as limiting the throttle wouldn't make it run rich. Even compared to modern 4 cyl econo cars, Z's aren't that fast ( 0-60, 1/4 mi, top speed). Most mini vans or SUV's would beat one no problem. I would let him drive it as is.

Cruidin at 20:1 would probably get worse milage than 15:1 unless it was a lean burn engine ( Honda) designed to run at that. As for cruising at 20:1 and then hitting a slight hill and having catastrophic detonation, that's just not true. You don't get deto during light load. Regardless, the hill would add some load. You would come out of the cruise bins and fuel would be added, if anyone one with half a brain tuned it right. No difference than cruising at 15:1 ( or whatever) and 42* timing at 60mph and then hammering it with 30 psi.

Did you get it worked out?

What do you mean custom? Are you doing it yourself? Are you autoXing or tracking it? If it's a street car I would put a street car alignment on it and be happy. IMO, an alignment to get the extra 10% of handling out of it that you will never notice on the street as you can't push it 100% on the street will make the car 50% worse to drive the street. Wandering, wearing tires unevenly, ect.