zcarnut

The earliest USA 240Zs were built like that as well. I have number 1841 and it even lacks the inside expansion tank above the filler tube. No vent tube down the transmission tunnel was used and no vent valve (next to the carbs). Even the back of the air filter housing is different.

Fairly common to have a vacuum leak which "squeals". At the engineering lab where I work the techs find vacuum leaks with an ultrasonic detector: http://www.uesystems.com/why_up_apps_leak_detection.asp

No it's not. The Datsun 810 (1977-80) N47 head is similar to the one found on the later 280Z except for the smaller exhaust valve. The Maxima (1981-84) N47 head was redesigned and Nissan changed the combustion chamber from a dome-wedge shape to a wedge shape with a better quelch volume.

http://www.professional-products.com/dampersProductNissan.php

A few years ago one of the automotive paint and body trade magazines BodyShop Business did an in depth evaluation of weld through primers including long term rust protection. I’ll look for the exact article but, in a nutshell their results were that none of the available weld through primers were as effective as [good old] epoxy primer. So, I’m not surprised by the Damlier-Chrysler statement...

Only the Datsun 810 (1977-80) front crossmember will bolt into your 280ZX. The first gen Maxima (1981-84) used a different crossmember. A problem with the 810 crossmember is that it lacks the brackets to hold the rack-and-pinion steering rack. The 810’s all used the re-circulating ball type of steering box. However, you can cut these brackets off a ZX doner crossmember and weld them on to the 810 one (as I have done on my 810). You can get an 810 crossmember from the Z Barn. Roger has several.

Here's what I have measured: 240Z and 280ZX stub axle: 25 splines spline outside diameter = 25.8mm 280Z stub axle: 27 splines spline outside diameter = 27.8mm Z31 stub axle: 26 splines spline outside diameter = 27.5mm So, in my opinion, the answer to your question is no.

Because of the heavier weight of the 2+2 260Z, Nissan beefed up the rear lower control arms and made other chassis modifications. Nissan applied these changes to the two-seater as well. The later lower control arms will work on the 240Z’s. On 280Z Nissan also changed the rear strut tube dimension slightly; the insulator on top of spring was modified and the spring perch on the strut tube was repositioned.

Yes. But that’s pretty much what Nissan does already. Since the intake manifold vacuum level is a function of engine load and throttle position, a vacuum bottle and a check valve provides a reservoir of fairly constant vacuum despite the intake manifold fluctuations. On the ZX the vacuum bottle is a black plastic container about the size of a quart bottle. The check valve is built into the bottle. It’s sounds like your check valve is bad (common problem).

The 280ZX cruise control “sensor†is nothing more than a reed switch. A reed switch contains two metal contacts (the “reedsâ€) which are sealed in opposite ends of a small glass tube. A magnetic field in close proximity will cause the contacts to pull together to complete the electrical circuit. The stiffness of the reeds causes them to separate to open the circuit when the magnetic field ceases: http://www.reed-sensor.com/Notes/Magnet_Applications.htm The reed switch uses the magnetic field generated by the spinning permanent magnet that is already in the speedometer. This magnet is spun by the speedo cable and induces a voltage in the meter movement of the speedometer. [The faster the magnet turns, the higher the induced voltage, Faraday's law of induction, and the more the speedometer needle moves.] So, the only difference with the ZX “cruise control†speedo is that it has the reed switch. When I transplanted a 280ZX cruise control system into my Datsun 810 I mounted a ZX reed switch in the 810’s speedometer with epoxy. I got the reed switch from a junk ZX speedo. You may be able to accomplish the similar feat with an aftermarket speedometer, but is has to have the spinning magnet (analog meter movement). If the new speedometer is “digital†(more common nowadays) then you can’t use a reed switch with it.

All the Nissan Parts dealers now use a CD based Parts Manual. Before that they used the microfiche film cards (slides). You used to be able to order the cards from Nissan (they were only a few bucks a set) but nowadays you have to wait for them to show up on eBay. The problem with the cards is that you must have a fiche reader to view them. They used to be expensive, but with everyone going digital, you can get a used reader for very cheap. They even make fiche readers that will make paper copies. I used one made by Canon for years. There were actual books that had the fiche printed out on paper. Since these were the source of the microfiche slides they were the most legible. I have seen two of these (for the S30 series) sell on eBay for well over $100 as they are somewhat rare. There is the web site mentioned by Warren. However, the quality of their scans is mediocre so it is difficult to tell exactly what some part numbers are. But, I guess you get what you pay for

I’ve used the 3M spray adhesive products with great results. They are widely used in upholstery repair shops. Just make sure you use the correct 3M product. They make an almost bewildering array of spray adhesives: 08074 Spray Trim Adhesive. Use on lightweight materials only or with materials that the adhesive will soak through. Designed for attaching upholstery cloth, trunk liners and for assisting with positioning applications where mechanical fasteners will be holding the material in place. Do not use for bonding heavy materials like automotive headliners. Safe to use on styrofoam. 08080 General Trim Adhesive. For lightweight headliners or other lightweight materials including adequately supported flexible vinyl, foams, insulation, and fabrics. Low soak through. You can reposition the materials during assembly (very handy feature). 08090 3M Super Trim Adhesive. High strength. For use on heavy materials like headliners and thick vinyl. Stronger than 08080. Safe to use on foam padding. Not recommended for styrofoam. Will soak through lightweight materials and cloth. 08091 3M Super Trim Adhesive. Stronger than 08090. Designed for use with exterior materials like vinyl tops and hood silencer pads where high strength and heat resistance are required. Remember to always follow the exact instructions on the can label. In general, all above are contact adhesives which means that you spray both materials you are joining, wait the appropriate time (5 min or so) and then join the materials. Better results are obtained with new materials (don’t ever reuse old foam padding). My recommendations are to use 08080 on lightweight upholstery cloth that the adhesive will soak through, 08090 on headliners and door panels, and 08091 on hood silencer pads. Do not use 08074 at all. Remember, the stronger the adhesive the more likelihood of damaging the materials to be joined and the price goes up as well.

Good luck….I tried to get a new set of ZX manual rack bushings last year. No one had them, not even the dealer. I ended up re-using the old ones.

The “secret†is to use two large screwdrivers and pry on opposite sides. Using only one creates enough side force to jam up the stub axle.

Larger [diameter] rotors increase brake torque by increasing the distance from the wheel centerline to the pads. This effect also improves the operation of the parking brake. A larger rotor also has more surface area to better dissipate heat. And another feature is that the larger rotor will allow for more axle-to-caliper clearance when I change over to CV axles. Yes they were. I just can’t leave anything alone I’m presently using a 280ZX one that I have modified. It could use some more “tweaking†as the bias is still very slightly towards the rear. I’m investigating using a Z32 master cylinder which has a built-in proportioning valve.

I’m curious. I’ve disassembled over thirty S30 rear struts and I have never seen an “A†or “C†distance spacer. They were all stamped "B". What about anyone else?

Yes, I do (well, I used to ): http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=578333#post578333 I have since "upgraded" the 280ZX rear rotor to a modified 1984 Z31 rear rotor: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=578445#post578445

You need to read the posts more closely…The 280ZX (S130) steering rack is positioned behind the front axles whereas the S30 rack is in front of the axle. So, the rack movement in reponse to a steering wheel rotation is opposite. What the guy did to use a 280ZX rack was to get one off a right-hand-drive (RHD) car and flip it over to use it on a S30. RHD S130’s are very rare in the USA.

Over the last few years I have taken several gas tanks down to a radiator shop for “boiling†out. Never paid more than $75 per tank, so I wonder what you are getting for $225? I had one of the gas tank sealers/liners come off and it clogged the fuel feed line, ruining a perfectly good tank. Because of this, I would only recommend using a liner if you have to seal up any small rust pin holes.

You will also need the 280ZXT distributor/oil pump drive shaft. It's unique to the 280ZXT distributor. It's NLA from Nissan, so just be sure to get a good used one (along with the turbo distributor).

I got the gaskets, input shaft seal, output shaft seal, the o-rings and the reverse switch from the Nissan dealer. I'm glad they were still available.

Pertronix Ignitor number 1761. http://pertronix.com/ptx2007_cat/ptx07_auto.pdf

(My age is showing) “Highway Star†- Deep Purple (appropriately from the album entitled “Machine Headâ€). Great guitar and organ solo's. “Vehicle†- The Ides of March . It seemed like every school dance I went to, the band would always play it.

The 200SX calipers require using the Maxima (44155-04S10) brackets. The 200SX caliper is very similar to the later 280ZX rear caliper (same offset and same pads) but the piston area is smaller and the parking brake lever is at a different angle.

I glass bead them which really cleans them up and softens the rubber as well. Follow with a healthy application of Armor-All or equivalent.