zcarnut

I remember buying a bench vise from Harbor Freight. The first time I used it, a blow from my ball-peen hammer cracked the vise into pieces. It was hollow and they had even stuffed Chinese newspaper into the void so it would not resonant! Still, I’ve bought several items from them and their $159 twenty-ton press was a bargain and has worked well (and I have used it a lot).

The sheet metal grease cover used on the Z31 300ZX CV (non-turbo) axle has the smaller endcap than the 280ZX Turbo CV axle.

Outrageous! http://jet-man.com/playervideo.swf?video=jetman2007.flv (not dial-up friendly)

If it's a Hitachi alternator it will have "LT160" stamped on it.

I’m still looking. Since the “big move†finding stuff has become a challenge.

If I still lived in Knoxville, I 'd be up there to assist in a minute. If you can't get a hold of Roger (at the Z Barn) then give me a PM. I know lots of Z car enthusiasts up there!

Using the Z31 hubs on a S130 strut will result in the brake rotor being in a different position (the rotor offset is different). I also recall that the Z31 inner wheel bearing seal won't fit.

You will have to use the upper ZX thermostat housing as well. It uses three bolts to secure it, whereas the earlier Z cars used only two.

The common solution to the stress problem created when switching inductive loads is to put what is known as a flyback diode in the reverse direction across the inductive load. Place the diode so that the voltage spike at switch off will forward bias the diode creating a return path for the current: http://zone.ni.com/devzone/cda/tut/p/id/4197 Scroll down to the section “Switching Inductive Loads†I have also used a capacitor across the switch (either a mechanical relay or a solid-state one) to absorb the switching energy. Lots of other info out there: http://www.acroname.com/robotics/info/articles/drivers/drivers.html http://www.4qdtec.com/catch.html

I installed a non-turbo 1987 Z31 ECU with it’s mass flow sensor to replace the AFM in a 1979 ZX. This was a few years ago, but I wrote down notes somewhere. I’ll look for them. I used the Z31 fuel injection wiring harness (modified to fit) so I wouldn’t have to cut up the ZX harness. I thought the procedure (the sticky) written up by Afshin (for using the turbo Z31 ECU) was pretty informative and helped get me started on this project. I used the 280ZXT distributor with the Z31 trigger (sensor) wheel. I also used the Z31 O2 sensor by welding a bung (that was drilled and tapped) on the aftermarket ZX header collector pipe. I did not wish to rewire the ZX fuel pump to use the Z31 ECU directly, so I came up with an interface circuit (using a power transistor) between the ECU and the fuel pump and installed it in the fuel pump relay housing.

Electrical Engineer here. Spent twenty years with Philips Consumer Electronics (Magnavox) designing deflection and high voltage circuits for television sets. Before that I was an electronics technician. After my Philips tenure, I went back to school to finish my Master’s and then spent a year doing R&D in Oak Ridge,TN at a company that designed electric motors for hybrid cars. They were hoping to get a contract from Ford (never did, so..). Presently designing power supplies for Adtran, a telecommunications company. Looking forward to an early retirement. I hold four patents (3 US and one international). I enjoy tinkering with cars and it’s a nice diversion from all the electronics I have to deal with.

One of the members in my Z car club retro-fitted the AC system from a first generation (1981-84) Maxima into his 1972 240Z. This Maxima used the L6 engine so the AC compressor and it's mount bolts right up. He hacked together a box for the evaporator and was able to mount it in between the stock 240Z blower fan and heater box. It’s not pretty, but it does seem to function. I don’t recall how he handled the temperature adjustment controls. He used rubber hoses instead of the hard lines which made the installation easier.

Per the Nissan TSB’s, it’s a radiator bypass valve. On the later L6's (ZX’s and first gen Maxima’s) Nissan used a bypass hose from the rear head outlet (a special dual outlet fitting which still fed the heater core) to a T-fitting on the heater return line hose. The key to making it work is that the T-fitting has a pressure relief valve on the bypass line. When the thermostat at the front of the engine is closed the water pressure in the head is higher than normal and the relief valve in the T-fitting opens allowing water circulation. This flows through the bypass hose to the water pump inlet during engine warm up. This circulation prevents “hot spots†from developing in the cylinder block and head. As the thermostat opens the water pressure drops and the relief valve closes, otherwise you would be bypassing the radiator with the heated water. It's a good idea, if you ask me.

First, get a 14mm spark plug chaser, not a tap. A chaser will not remove metal (like a tap). Spark plug threads tend to collect carbon over time and the chaser will cut through it. You might get lucky. If the treads are really stripped then you can install a “spark plug insert kit”. It’s like a Heli-coil but you get a special tap in the kit that you run down the old plug hole. This tap enlarges the hole and puts threads in for the insert. The insert then screws into the hole and it is threaded for a 14mm spark plug. Yes, you can you this without pulling the head. It’s a pain on the Z31 because of the location of the spark plug, but it can be done. Just first cram an oil soaked rag into the cylinder through the spark plug hole to collect all the metal shavings. Tip: Do not use the crappy glue that comes with the kit. Use JB Weld instead. Otherwise, the insert will back out.

Here’s what I did to fit the 5-lug Z31 stub axle into a S30 strut housing: In order to use standard size bearings I bored the strut housing where the bearings fit from a 70 mm ID to 72mm. My machinist was able to do this on a lathe to ensure a precise cut. I used a 6306 type bearing for the inner bearing and a type 6207 for the outer bearing. Be sure to use a sealed bearing for the outer one. For the inner bearing oil seal I obtained a CR 15857 seal (40mm x 72mm x7mm). I reused the S30 bearing spacer after it was modified by increasing the inside diameter so it could fit on the tapered Z31 stub axle. Another option is to reduce the height of the Z31 bearing spacer to match the S30 one. I used the Z31 non turbo companion flange along with the 280ZX turbo CV axles to complete the swap. A 1986 non-vented rear rotor was used along with 200SX calipers and the Maxima rear caliper brackets. The Z31 stub axle flange where the wheel mounts is thicker than the S30 one. As a result the track is increased by 3mm on each side. I just shimmed the Maxima rear caliper brackets out with washers and everything lined up. This mod is not cheap. The machine work alone was over $200. Add the bearings, calipers, brackets, CV axles and misc items and the total cost is around $500. Although you are replacing the S30 stub axle with the much beefier Z31 axle, the strut housing is weakened by the metal removal. Nissan beefed up the rear strut housing on the 260Z and the 280Z. These would be a better choice for modification rather than the 240Z strut.

I got it from East Tennessee Nissan (865-687-6111, ask for H.C. in Parts) in Knoxville. If I got the “last†one, it wouldn’t be the first time I got the last [NOS] part. I ordered two rear springs and only got one and the second spring was on backorder and then it was canceled. Likewise for two NOS horns. Only got one. All the above parts are going onto the restoration of my 1970 240Z so, I can’t really part with it. I have heard that the windshield gasket from Precision Products is pretty good.

DO NOT USE PAINT THINNER! The motor is wound with laminated (painted) wire. Anything strong like paint thinner or lacquer thinner will dissolve the wire coating and will create a big electrical short circuit. Fuel actually circulates through the motor windings to keep it cool.

You sure it's NLA through Nissan? I got a NOS one only two months ago. Cost me $196 (ouch!).

Based on your description, I don’t think the check valve is causing your problem. However, the check valve can fail so that it will allow fuel through it, but it will not block the fuel return. Nissan used a cheap plastic ball in the check valve and it doesn’t last forever. When the check valve fails in this manner the symptom is a hard restart of a hot engine. The check valve is supposed to maintain fuel rail pressure and thus prevent vapor lock. Getting back to your original problem, my guess is that there are still some varnish deposits in the pump. I would try running kerosene through the pump. Kerosene will more readily dissolve the varnish left in the pump.

The Nissan electric fuel pumps have a relief valve in them. What you are seeing is the action of this relief valve. If the pump is clogged then the relief valve opens and the pressured fuel is sent to the inlet connection. Since the pressured fuel is at a higher pressure than the fuel going into the pump, the result is that the fuel flows out of the pump! The most likely reason for a clogged pump is a defective check valve on the outlet of the pump. It is available separately and just screws into the pump body. If you can’t get one from Nissan, then search for “Bosch†and “check valveâ€. I got one from a Jaguar dealer once for less than $5.

This thread reminds me of a story… We had a new member join our Z car club recently and he was telling everyone that his 1978 280Z (which he bought new) came with a LSD. Skeptical, I questioned him more closely and it turns out he ordered a new 4.11 R190 LSD from Nissan Motorsports when he ordered the 280Z and had the Nissan mechanics make the swap. So, when he picked up his “new†car at the dealer it had a LSD (!). I think it’s human nature to stretch the truth sometimes…..

Anytime your agent suggests a change to your policy, be suspicious. Last time I added a vehicle to my policy, mine tried to get me to drop my uninsured motorist coverage and also to change my deductible from $500 to $1000. Said it would save _ME_ big bucks! Yeah, right!

There’s not many junkyard choices for a AC compressor that will fit your ZX, I’m afraid. The 280ZX AC compressors are different from the earlier (1974-78) Z car compressors and also the (1977-80) 810 and the (1981-84) Maxima compressors. The ZX compressors have a larger displacement, require less re-circulating oil and the inlet and outlet ports are reversed. BTW, there are two types of ZX compressors, an early one and the later one. Difference being the width of the pulley groove. Early ZX compressors use the wide belt like the 1974-78 compressors and the later ZX compressors changed over to a (more modern) narrow belt. The Z31 compressors changed from the compression fittings to o-ring for sealing of the input and output lines and also went to a serpentine belt so the pulley will be different.

The OD of the inner seal is 72mm, not 73mm. What you need is a 40 x 72 x 7 seal (again, a standard generic size):

In addition to the seal, the other difference between the inner and outer rear wheel bearings (on the S30's) is that the outer bearing has an extra “lip” on one side. This lip is on the outside of the bearing. It’s function is to position the outer wheel bearing correctly on the stub axle. The stub axle has an inside radius where the axle meets the flange piece that holds the lug nut studs for the wheel. The inside radius does not allow the bearing a definite “stop” location when it is being pressed on the axle shaft. The lip on the bearing makes contact with the axle flange piece and thus the bearing is positioned in the correct location. This lip changes the overall thickness dimension of the bearing so I would not reccomend using it in the inner bearing location. The inner rear wheel bearing is a standard bearing, available at any good bearing supply company.