MONZTER

I was waiting for someone to bring this up, Tony the trouble maker HAHAH. Now there is even more to think about...

the radiator is made by a company called Meziere http://www.meziere.com/index.php?pgName=rad Interesting idea about tapping only one of the cylinders above the exhaust port Tim. I will take some pictures tomorrow of a cross sectioned head at #5. Have you ever noticed that the cooling inlet size and hole positions on the head where it mates to the block has changed over the years. Some holes have been added and some omitted as well as there size. It would be interesting to check the differences between your N-42 and a P-90. I have both of those heads at work, I will check it out as well, maybe Nissan found the same thing out when they went to the P-90 head from the N-42. I was also thinking about the flow. You know how they say on an intercooler with the inlet and the outlet on the same side causes a recirculation of the air inside the intercooler, and that baffling helps this. I wonder if the water could be seeing this same type of effect. Here is a really bad illustration of what I am talking about. On the left is what it should probably work like and on the left is a possibility of what could be happening? Now if we only had a clear plastic head and block to watch the water flow:

I have a set of AZC front arms, and they did indeed bind when topped out. This was 5 years ago and I think there design has changed. I ended up cutting off the straight front tube, and adding a bent one to fix the angle. I then decided just to build my own.

When the car is on a jack and the front struts are fully extended, are you worried about the tie rod/ball joint binding? It looks like the center of the joint is perpendicular to the centerline of the arm. I wonder if the joint has as much rotation as the stock ball joint. Hopefully it's all good. Looks real nice, and easy to adjust. I had to put a small bend in the front tube on mine so that the heim joint was in the middle of its range at ride height. This made it so no binding under full extension or compression. You can see the bend and angle in the front view on the picture below:

The brakes on my car are AP aluminum 4 piston post mount in front with 13" AP cross drilled rotors. I designed the rotor hat and mounting bracket for the post mount setup myself. Everything is CNC machined from 7075 and hard anodized. I only made 1 set. The backs are AP 2 piston post mount (same as a lotus Elise front) The rear rotors are cross drilled Z-32 rotors and the backing plate is also custom designed to bolt on and use all of the parking brake hardware from the Z-32. Again only 1 set. Thanks Jeff

Thanks for the replies, I just did not know if I broke some un-said golden rule or not. I did pay for the work and I do own the head. Dave never even hinted at "Don’t show this or hide this" Like I said, he was super nice, prompt, professional, and on time. I just did not want to “burn any bridges†if there was some un-said rule I broke, I would defiantly like to use him again. Thanks Jeff

Do you really think that was bad of me to post those pics? I dont want to piss anyone off, Dave seems like a great guy, and I did not realize that he might not want that sort of thing shown. I'm feeling kinda stupid now:bonk:

I cut in half a bunch of heads lately to investigate various ideas. One idea is just what you mentioned. Directly above each exhaust port is a nice open area that you could pull the water out from. I believe the water first has to flow past all 6 pistons before moving up and across the head for #5 and #6. I am thinking about using a radiator bulkhead mounted water pump with 2 outlets. One outlet would go to the current front cover/front of the block. The second outlet would go around the block to the block drain lug under #6 so cooled water is going to the back as well as the front. Now if you tapped into the head above the exhaust ports and let the water flow out, it would eliminate the water having to pass over so many areas. Some of the problems I see are that you would have to block off the head bypass since the water is now being pushed instead of pulled. you will also have to block off the water pump opening. You would also have to plumb only cylinders #2-#6 leaving #1 as the current thermostat housing where the other 5 would collect and then go back to the radiator. #1 and the thermo housing is also a high point in the system so trapped air should not be a problem. Here are some pics of the water pump, old nissan designs, as well as a manifold design I am working on

It's a P-90