MONZTER

I know eyebrowing an L-24 block is necessary when running l-28 valves in the head, but what about eyebrowing a L-28 block that will be turbocharged? Will this improve the flow by helping to un-shroud the valves? My biggest concern is that it will expose the top ring more, will this cause the top ring to be overexposed. Does anybody have an opinion on this? Thanks

Ah yes I forgot about the ability to tune each cylinder That would be so nice, I guess you would need 6 wideband sensors in each header pipe, and then run it on a Dyno. Have you ever seen or done this on a datsun motor. I wonder if the ITB's discussed in this thread would make the engine much more consistant than a single throttle plenum, to the point where it would not be necassary to do this?

We aren’t saying Big injectors wont work unless it idles rich, but you must have a system capable of running the injectors in a sequential order, or some sort or rising rate fuel pressure regulator (not so precise). Seqential means the injector only fires on the intake stroke, basically making the injector off time longer. Most new stand-alone systems can do this with the addition of a cam sensor to let the computer know when the intake event is happening. Most older systems run in non-sequential or batch fire, meaning they inject fuel every revolution. So on the exhaust stroke fuel is sprayed on the back of the intake valve, some say help cooling it and improving the throttle response. My understanding is sequential is good for emissions and gas mileage, and non-sequential is for performance. Anybody have any opinion on this

I am currently running a Tec 3r it uses MAP, TPS, Coolant Temp, and air temp to calculate air flow, so no restriction from a air flow sensor. A cool feature of the Tec is that you can blend in TPS to your MAP reading to trick and engine with a low vacuum reading at idle, which is common with big cams and ITB's The Tec 3r runs great, my current L-24 with a welded up N-42 at 10.5:1 runs pump gas all day and did 210hp at the wheels at R & D Dyno Check out my pictures for a look at my current projects http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=19475

Since it will be a 1-off the machining doesnt scare me. As it is modeled in Pro-E and I use a shop that does fantastic surface machining. Easy to program, but lots of machine time. The flange will be 1 pc, and the runners 2 pcs welded together (top and Bottom). The bodies will also be one pc and welded to the runners. They were designed around TWM small parts like butterfies and linkage so I dont have to make that stuff. They will be 45mm and used on my Turbo Motor. 1 Huge injector is difficult for good idle and cruise. The staged injectors will operate depending on the RPM and load, small close injector for idle and cruise, and big far away injector for High RPM.

I just remembered another great company. West End Alignment - if you live in the So-cal Area. http://local.yahoo.com/details?id=20484636& Darren is a true pro and has good experience with Z cars. Does 4 wheel alignment as well as corner weights He usually has a 3 week lead time so plan ahead

I just came across this post, this is what I have been working on

So often I read in the forums people complaining, bagging on, or warning others not to do business with such and such company because of... Well, I just had a good experience with a company, as well as several others in my years of working on z-cars. I wanted to share my story, and hear from others positive stories about companies that have gone above and beyond just selling. Almost a reference for others to view. So last week I needed some new DOT slicks for my autocross car, and I went to "The Tire Rack" as they offer shaving as well as heat cycling. Got the tires in 3 days, and went to get them mounted. One tire came out with 5 oz of weights (not good) so I figured the guy at the tire store did a crappy job and did not ride balance them as requested. I proceeded to stand around and watch him as he rotated the tire 3 times to try to get it to balance out with less weight, no luck, but thanks for trying. So the tire is bad/made wrong/ or shaved wrong. So got back (kinda frustrated) to my office, and called the tire rack telling them of the excessive weights required. Their first and only question was - have you driven on it yet? My answer - No. OK sir, sorry about that let me check my inventory - yes we have one, I will have a new tire shaved heat cycles and sent off to you ASAP - Is there anything I can help you with? I know where I will be buying all my tires for all my cars from now on. In a world with so many companies selling the same product, it is great to know some have figured out that service sells. MSA Motor Sport Auto is another company I personally have had great experiences with. Sal on the sales desk is always going out of his way to find me my most difficult request. I have a second Z that I am doing a full restoration on, I will show up at MSA with a factory part number for something as silly as a special bolt and washer worth .30 cents, and if they don't have it, they will special order it for me. Again - for me - service is the name of the game. and I will be loyal to those who treat me as a valued customer. Sorry for such a long post, just having a good day. Jeff

Have any of you guys ever tried installing and then removing for adjustment a Quaife LDS into a R-180. The LSD wont fit in with the bearings pressed on. You have to do it through the holes, Now try to remove it. What a nightmare

Rick, Sounds like your plans are the same as mine; you’re just a whole lot crazier. I'm not shooting for 1000hp but 500hp and great drivability. Thanks for your reply

Wow 72 lb/hr whats that like 800cc? Are the injectors firing every revolution or only on the intake cycle? what is your fuel pressure? are you using a rising rate fuel pressure regulator? what is your minimum on time? I run my RC injectors at .80ms any less and they will stall and shut down during deceleration sorry for all of the questions Thanks Jeff

2 weeks and no reply, bummer, I was hoping somebody had some experience with this. I guess I am going for the 2 sets of injectors in a staged configuration, like the pictures above.

Hi, I searched this subject but only found 2 year old post, alot has changed since then, and wanted to see if any oppinions have changed about the benefits of staged injection on a turbo motor. My idea is this: Currently I run a Tec 3r NON Sequential, (I feel this gives better throttle response than full-sequention). Problem is by doing this it is way difficult to have single non staged injectors idle well and be large enough for a high HP Turbo set up. My Tec3r will run staged injectors so the small ones close to the head will be for idle and cruise, and the big ones far back will kick in under boost or high RPM. Does anyone have experience with the Tec3 and this type of set up. I am designing an building my own throttle bodies, and wanted some opinions before finishing up the design. Thanks for the help and check out the pics below of the Cad models. (there not finished yet)

The valve cover is Black wrinkle Powder coat, the same as the turbo valve covers. A place called Olympic Powder Coating in Santa Ana California did it, as well as the manifold. But first I removed and welded up all of the original spark plug wire bosses on the valve cover (since I dont run a distributor) The manifold is something I built out of a manifold originally from a 2.0 japan motor (so I was told) I cut it up into a dozen pieces, and added an inch in volume, straightened all of the runners, as well as extending and changing the angle of the throttle body. I also converted it to a 6 bolt flange, and added injector bosses in the runners. The throttle body was a TWM 60mm that I added a TPS, IAC motor and converted it to a throttle cable so there would be no linkage from above. Here is a pic before the powder coat. I took a lot of work, but I enjoy fab. work

My radiator sits lower than the head, (because its a crossflow design and if I raise it the cap would hit the hood) and I could never get all of the air out of the system. So I made a raised thermo housing that makes it the highest point on the engine. Now all the air is gone, and the raised sections acts like a small purge tank. The cap on the radiator is never used and there because thats the way it came. I guess maybe this was the long way around the block, but it worked...

Pretty sure the nissan comp valves are from a company called Si Valves. Here is the link http://www.sivalves.com/ocforeign_valvessp_nis.html Motorsport Auto also sells them, and the comp valves, and they look the same. Also the same as the ones from Top end Performance. I use them, they work great, and there pretty cheap

Looks like we all want to clean up our engine compartment, removing the clutter sure helps

I am the Senior Design Engineer for A Bicycle Manufacture, where I get to design and engineer 2500.00+ - sub 2 lb carbon fiber Road Racing Bikes. www.feltracing.com I also do full suspension bike to beach cruisers. I have built and designed numerous bikes that have taken profesional athletes to World Championships and the Olympics. I alway have had two passions in my life, cycling and cars. I make a living off one, and relax with the other. I'm very lucky to do what I love... Jeff

Lucky me I use a Tec-3 so no distributor. The tube will come straight out on center

"He found that if the exhaust pipes were connected to the separate sides of the divided exhaust housing so that the exhaust pulses entering each side were evenly spaced, throttle response improved even more. Though this arrangement didn't add power, "turbo lag" was all but gone." jimbo This is pretty much how Burns Stainless explained it to me, They were very specific about engine size, port size, valve size, cam spec, and even firing order. They recommended not only the primary length, but the 6-2-1 arrangement. He said a 6-1 would have too much volume at the collector slowing down the flow defeating the effect. He also mentioned the off boost performance would benefit with this type of arrangement. This is why I spent so long working to get these the correct length and layout. My goal is to make as much power with pump gas as possible, and still have a very streetable car. Here are some more shots of the Merge collector. BTW the waste gate will come tangent off the bend of the 2-1 part making it like the example of proper placement in the book by Corky Bell. What are your guys thoughts on wastegate placement and managing boost creep, it always seem to me that the wastegates that come off at 90 degrees to the flow would have a hard time responding quickly.

Ya, I thought that seemed a little long too at first, but given the amount of info they asked for, and some of the teams they work for, who am I to argue. The car is not being built for the dyno, but for the street and autocross. Looking at some of the old F-1 cars and Indy cars from back when turbos were not banned, it is interesting to see how long their primaries were - given the RPM range. I think short headers are probably popular for packaging and obvious OEM considerations. We'll see.