mobythevan

And then you told him: "thank goodness, cause I know I was over 95 at one point" Man I pulled into the right lane on I-25 a few weeks back and hit boost in a construction zone because everyone was going slow in the left lane. I was up to just about 70 in a 45 when I saw the cop setting there with his radar pointed right at all of us. Apparently he couldn't read my speed with so many cars around, I slowed down quick. He never followed me so I said, whewww.

My friend had this exact problem with his TPI setup and it turned out to be no heat sink grease on the 8 pin HEI module he had installed so it would overheat. Put a new one in with heat sink grease and never had a problem again.

Don't put so much faith in people's guesses. You never know exactly what is wrong until the engine is pulled and torn down. Unless he pulled the engine already and checked it out it is just his best guess. If you ran it out of oil just assume the worst until it is torn down and inspected. If you don't have much money this is a perfect time for you to start learning how to do everything yourself.

This is pretty neat to think back...how I got to hybrid z cars went like this.... My first car was a 63 chevy-II with I think a 192 six and powerglide. Yanked that immediately and put in a sbc 350 with th350. I was immediately hooked on engine swapping. That thing would melt the little tires. But it was my first crack at serious auto work and had a lot of problems like starter heat soaking, couldn't change plugs, custom oil pan that didn't get welded good enough and leaked. So I got rid of it and bought a 66 impala SS with a 400 sbc that someone had swapped in. That car ran good but was a huge boat. So then at around 17 I would say, I was at a dirt bike garage getting help with a valve job for my honda and we are talking fast bikes/fast cars/etc. The owner says, see that datsun z car over there, it has a 400 sbc in it. Those things are crazy fast and you can buy the swap kit. Hmmmm, I love the way the z car looks. Then life happened and nothing progressed for years, but finally got some money and thought about that V8 z car again. I rushed out and bought the first major pile of rust I found for $500 and got demoralized on the whole project. So in the meantime I thought I would pick up a daily driver 240z to keep me in the spirit. I picked up another $500 240z locally with no rust this time, but the engine turned out to be bad. So I went to the datsun junkyard (yeah we had one, but its gone now) to pick up an L28 to throw in there and get driving. The guy at the junkyard says they are going out of business so he has a 280zx turbo engine, BW T5 and all harness/electronics etc for $350. I say wow and the rest is history. I scrapped the major rust pile that would have been the V8 conversion. Learned a ship load about everything automotive by buidling the turbo 240z and then sold it because I wasn't mature yet. Now I set here today with a V8 RX7 just because I'm a person of oppurtunity. The RX7 showed up, an engine showed up and a turbo showed up . But I suspect I will own another z car in the future, just keeping an eye out for the right oppurtunity. Lots of memories of the turbo 240z like the time I was passing two motorcycles at about 90 and the hatch blew open because the car body was being tweaked, that is fun stuff.

From the MS1 MSnS_Extra source code, so anything newer than 025d:

The extra code now has an output to drive a tach just for this situation. I am using it on my LS1. It can output normal or half rate. I use half rate for the LS1, then it puts out a 4 cylinder type signal that macthes the factory PCM signal. However, you have to build a little 2222 transitor circuit, the circuit is in my LS1 thread.

Found the problem with the popping, I had a bad plug after all the troubleshooting. Replaced that last night and now it runs great. I think I am now comfortable in saying that the writeup in this thread works.

From your other post you said you have to run a +45 trigger angle addition to get it to do anything. That is not correct for an 83 style turbo dizzy (don't remember if that is what you are using). You should be able to run a trigger angle of ~60 with no addition. Otherwise it sounds like your dizzy/oil pump was timed wrong.

Ok, it also took me a while,

Fixed 3 things and now I get steady rpm and the car is running pretty good. I am working on tuning now. I updated the settings in this thread to reflect what I found. 1. I had a bad opto transistor, it finally quit all together. 2. I had some settings wrong in megatune. 3. I had a bunch of higher frequency noise all over my MS setup. I added bypassing caps to the following wires on the relay board (.01uF and .22uF): battery 12volt, switched 12v, crank sensor input, cam sensor input, injector bank 1 control, injector bank 2 control. Now I am going to install the knocksense module to monitor while tuning. Also, I get a little bit of popping out the pipe at about 80kpa and 2000rpm. Could that happen if I'm too rich, it is definitely rich right now as I am just starting tuning.

This does not sound correct, can you elaborate on where you have the 1K resistor right now. Also give us a lot more detail of what led up to seeing the tach spike, etc.

are you sure about that? seems to me like the 13b goes more around 150K

I have a new reman HX35W from cummins, you can see the pics in my add. If any of you guys are interested send me a PM. I actually went and changed the price and re-listed the add, not sure why it was marked sold.

Horsepower doesn't win races, its torque that matters

I have to admit it is a lot of fun to ride around in. She got it this week, brand new. That is her driving, but Thorin is my horse.

I am very close to having this running correctly. I have spent the last two weeks working out issues with the new 029y4 code and the LS1 sensors. The car has been running, but the trigger inputs are not decoded correctly so RPM is not steady and therefore it doesn't run very good. I finally completed experiments last night that are very promising, so I am building a little extra circuitry and should be running 100%.

cool, good work

If you really like the punishment, then you can use a VR conditioner circuit and the wheel decoder in MSnS. Then you don't need the EDIS module.

Maybe the thunderbird manual is available online to check the schematics.

Where did you install the 1K? Is it in line with the tach input wire?

Thats also a good point. There are two critical things to remember with the 7 or 8 pin HEI modules. You have to do the mod to trigger of the falling edge and you have to deal with the cranking bypass pin correctly. You can search up my TPI install notes to see the mod for the falling edge trigger. If you don't use the bypass pin correctly your timing will appear fixed no matter what you try. If you don't do the falling edge trigger mod your timing will shift around as you raise RPM, seen easily if you enter a fixed angle once the engine is running.

Could you list the HEI pin names, in particular what you do with pin B. IIRC that is the cranking bypass pin that puts out the fixed timing regardless of the other control lines. From my notes Connect pin R of the 8 pin HEI module to TACH input of relay board. Connect pin B of the 8 pin HEI module to X12 (S2 connection on relay board) Connect pin E of the 8 pin HEI module to X11 (S1 connection on relay board) Connect pin G of the 8 pin HEI module to ground

oh, 8 pin module, do you have it set up correctly? If you do not control the 8 pin module with the correct signals it just outputs limp home mode, which sounds like what is happening to you. Tell me how you have the 8 pin wired, all the pins. Also how is your coil wired into this. This should be easy to sort out, ha ha, famous last words.

I was curious how many teeth or what configuration doesn't work with the current megasquirt systems.

I am not sure where you are in the setup procedure so I'll just lay it out again and you can tell us where you are. 1. first, set fixed timing to 15 2. next put timing light on engine and crank engine with fuel injectors unplugged so it doesn't fire 3. adjust trigger angle until you see 15 on the crank 4. If you have to adjust trigger angle to less than 50 or more than 70, then recheck your distributor phasing. Loosen the hold down and turn the dizzy a little to get the trigger in a spot that will keep you between 50 and 70. I assume this is a turbo engine with 82-83 style turbo dizzy, if not let us know your setup again as this step may be different. OR, do it this way: 1. set fixed timing to 15 2. set trigger angle to 60 3. have someone crank while you hold timing light 4. loosen distributor and slowly turn either way to get 15 on the crank Remember to enter -10 back into fixed timing to allow MSnS to use the spark table when you are finished.