rsicard

Streeteg: I gather that the R200 is out of a 280Z? The plastic breather goes in place of the metal breather that is located in the Upper RH corner of the removable diff cover. Carefully extract the old metal one as it is pressed in and then carefully press in the plastic breather. This is optional as the metal breather may be OK.

Lgoodson: Don't say nobody has a clue. Post a photograph of the rear of the 280Z tach to see if it uses the same current loop as the 240Z which I have. If it does then we can experiment to get the 280Z tach working with the LT-1. It would seem that the 280Z tach needs to be in series with the power feed to the ignition coil. That would be the positive side of the coil which needs to be removed and routed to the tach then the other lead of the tach needs to go back to the positive side of the ignition coil. In this manner the ignition primary coil current is flowing through the pickup in the 280Z tach and back to the ignition coil.

Doc Hawk: Depends on what your goals are to determine how to build the engine and car. Make a plan and stick to it. Is it going to be street only or drag racer or road racer?

Omar: Get a Volt Ohm Milliameter (VOM) with a 10 ampere function. Disconnect the Postive cable from the battery and insert the VOM, with the leads and switches set for measuring 10 amperes, in Series between the battery positive post and the positive cable end removed. Hopefully the current seen will be less than 0.5 amp or 500 milliamperes (the same thing). If it is above 1.0 amperes on the 10 ampere setting, remove the fuses from the fuse box one at a time to try to establish which accessory is drawing current when it is not supposed to be. If less than 1.0 ampere, then disconnect and reset the VOM to the 500 milliamp scale or lower scale as needed and repeat the process of one at a time locating the circuit that is drawing the current when it is not supposed to be. This is a process of elimination. Once the circuit is located then get the wiring diagram or get back on this thread and give the results. We will try to help you further locate the fault.

After getting strong half shafts, then the stub axles will break at their design weak point. After that comes breakage of the diff itself.

Its the camshaft, cylinder heads, intake manifold and carb that make all the difference.

If your going to go with a crate motor, go for the GM 383 (ZZ383) short block and put AFR-195 heads on it and a good cam and you will be WAY OUT IN FRONT.

Drew: Not sure if you have a 300ZXT R200 CLSD but Modern Motorsports (MM) has BEEFY Stub Axles that replace the 280Z stub axles (Eliminating design weak spot in 280Z stub axles). These together with 300ZXT half shafts should take MUCH more torque applied to the rear drive. They were designed to eliminate MM customer repeatedly SNAPPING new MM 280Z replacement stub axles.

Mark: Really like how your car turned out. What is the air damn constructed of, please elaborate? Noticed the removable steering wheel. Where and what parts did you use for it? Really like your roll cage setup. Is it hand built? Please elaborate.

Crane Cams had some springs and keepers that would allow a greater lift camshaft. To make some real power consider a Dart Block for $1400.00. Then fill it with SCAT crank and rods, SRP pistons, AFR cylinder heads, custom cam and you will have something far superior to a L31 vortec. This is the way I will do it next time and be FAR ahead.

Stephan: I like your design as far as it goes. I am going to fabricate a front strut bar with three attach points. One from side to side, another from side to center firewall and lastly one from side to forward and down to frame rail. Thinking also about a X cross brace just forward of the engine running parallel to the side to side strut bar. This will likely necessitate running one more brace from each strut forward to a strengthened radiator top bulkhead. Sure would like some graphics such as you have done but with more attach points on the strut plate.

It sure is GREAT to get the straight scoop from a seasoned professional.

Piston: That Cowl looks VERY GOOD! What color and paint code are you using. I have a silver 71 240Z and want to repaint it and am searching for colors. Please advise. Thanks.

I am going to upgrade the front 240Z brakes to Toyota calipers and Z31 rotors with a spacer then see what the braking differences are. When I get converted over to a V8 and six speed manual then take it to a road race course to see if the braking is sufficient. With the weight distribution it is easy to see upgrading the front brakes. It is harder to imagine a REAL gain from upgrading the rears to disk. I can imagine the old drum brakes on the front and rear becoming overheated rather easily in RACING. But ventilating the rear backing plate, drums and modern brake shoe material may have a LOT less heating and MUCH better performance.

What is the % gain in upgrading rear brakes to disk?

Gentlemen: The new Corvette LS9 engine is supercharged and has a static compression ratio of 9.1:1. It also has oil cooling to the bottom of the pistons. What REALLY matters when it comes to knock and SCR is the configuration of the piston and cylinder head combustion chamber. Good swirl and quench lead to FAST burn characteristics. The most complete cylinder burn characteristics is what is needed. This comes through CFD and experimentation with differing combustion chamber designs. There is even a form of specific coolant liquid for horsepower.

310Z: That is a beautiful picture. I also like the front air dam! Where does one purchase that air dam. Please advise. Thanks again.

310Z: Really nice looking 240Z! What is the code for the paint? I have a silver 71 240Z and am looking for silver paint codes and your looks very good. Hope to hear from you soon. Thanks.

If all you need to run is the alternator and air conditioning compressor via a less lengthy belt then the link that I gave you SHOULD work around the LT-1 water pump which is camshaft driven. I know it already works as it is on a friends 240Z and clears the hood but his is NOT a LT-1. Suggestion, I have a 1994 Buick Roadmaster with a LT-1 and have purchased an electric water pump for it that mounts to the front of the existing pump casting. That should eliminate any cooling issues.

The LT1 Flywheel mounts on a single piece rear main seal crankshaft. It will take a different flywheel for the 2 piece rear main seal 77 engine.

The Vortec truck brackets will likely bump into the hood. Go to Ebay via the following address for a 1988 serpentine setup: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY-350-SERPENTINE-BELT-PULLEYS-AND-BRACKETS-HOT-ROD_W0QQitemZ160352284848QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2555bdb0b0&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245c

There is or was a seller on Ebay that was selling camaro serpentine set that fits under the hood of a 240Z. Merely using shorter belts and eliminating power steering pump and water pump pulleys works fine. The seller is in Illinois and the sets come like they are NEW. All you need is a subset of pulleys and shorter serpentive belts. I am doing the same and a friend has also done the same.

Again, Dr_hunt is right. The SRPs that I am using a 4032 alloy which has silicon blended into the forging. These have less expansion under heat than the 2618 which is STRONGER. This just makes me wonder if the 4032 can withstand the 8500-9000 RPM that Sean 71 wants to run. With ceramic coating they can better withstand the heat generated yet there is the lingering question whether the 2618 has more material in the crown than the 4032 wherein the 2618 is stronger by having more material in the crown?

NismoZ: I have also used the weld and file approach. I used it extensively on the drivers door and it works. There is an optimum configuration for the humps on the latch and I will do some more work on it to get the passengers door to close better.

Sean 71: Please do some more research into 18 versus 23 degree heads BEFORE purchasing any. The Mahle pistons as compared to the later model SRP are 25 grams heavier than the SRP. Scat has some great "H" beams rods. Another suggestion that I am utilizing is to ceramic coat the piston crowns, cylinder side of the valves, back side of exhaust valves and exhaust ports of the cylinder heads. Also moly coating the piston skirts and the back side of the intake valves to reduce carbon buildup. The ceramic will reduce heat from migrating through the piston, valves and from the exhaust port to the intake port keeping it cooler for the incoming charge. Just some suggestions. If there are any questions please do not hesitate to ask.