WizardBlack

I would say that at some levels, many guys that would actually have enough of a grasp on all the various features of a 'really nice' wet sump pan to dictate everything to you will probably already have a welder and go at it themselves. If I were ye, come up with the econo-pan (cut and flip) along with a model with expanded wings for more capacity and then the one with capacity and some amount of the other lateral-g doodads. The rest of the stuff could be one-off for a specific customer. Maybe some guys that have put things together already could go into detail as to what is best for the RB. From my (relatively weak) RB-fu, street cars are OK with the cut/flip, but roadracers need trapdoors and more capacity on the sides (based on threads I've read here). I've also researched Aussie sites and most people agree dry sump is best for all out racing, but is horribly expensive. RIPS on here does that and quoted $10k NZ (IIRC) for a system. Have ye some sample photos of other pans you've done? Pics sells product.

Depends on your post level, seniority or perhaps membership. Mine is every 30 seconds, IIRC. To all, they did get back to me already, so they're on the ball.

Wow, that's pretty rich for vacuum. As in, close to washing the cylinders rich. It could easily be a compound problem, too. One issue could have caused a second problem, etc.

Read the RB section. There is a shop in Indiana that is doing it for $350.

Sounds like a MAF problem, injector flow, fuel pump, etc. What is the A/F ratio when it's doing this?

Hmm, they must be busy; they have not responded as of yet.

Eagle is an American company. Being an American, I'd go with them just because I can get ahold of them, they speak my language, etc. Considering you live in the 51st state, ( ), that might not be as much of a selling point for you, but they have indeed been a decent manufacturer. As with any hard parts, check them thoroughly as the previous posters stated. Even if they're Pauter, Crower, Carillo, etc.

Yeah, I'm not referring to the actual rev limiter, but the load cell that is acting that way. Having an untuned map like that, it could be more than just one cell, too. With a datalog and the map, I could probably tell ya and maybe even make an adjustment to push the limiting feature back or eliminate it until you are tuned. I assume you have WBO2 option? You could also expand the authority of the closed loop function and increase the response time, too. I am in Ohio, so email would be the only thing I could help ya with. The previous poster is right, however. A tuner could probably nail it down pretty quick with a copy of the map and some datalogs with some slow, progressive pushes into the breakup area. Mark

With all the money you guys have in your engines, I am extremely surprised you guys don't have Amsoil bypass filtration systems. Fixes the whole oil filtration issue with authority.

Well, I may have an RB here shortly, so I'm a fresh customer. (feels weird to be on the other end of these conversations ). I guess a wider sump with baffles makes the most obvious 'upgrade option', no? If someone is getting into making a cost effective option for RB swaps, then I won't need to. Sending you a PM. Mark

If you 'gotta' have the 'big supra power', go with a 1JZ from a jdm mkiii supra or soarer. It's 2.5 so it can rev pretty nicely. I guess you'd say it a compromise in cost, power, etc. between the 2JZGTE and the SR20DET. Lots of parts swap with the 2J and it makes good power. Honestly, I was on the fence between the 1J and RB25. The RB is just 'teh sexiness' in sound (like a naughty L28) but the 1J just makes retarded power for what you've done. Once you get past boost cut and fuel limitations, it pulls away from the RB25. The SR is no match in that aspect. Cost is pretty much the same for a 1J.

Djoo haz teh surtch?

It sounds exactly like a standalone car hitting the next load cell that is way too lean. It will act like a brick wall; almost. Does it feel like you can be a hair under the 'limiter' before it breaks up all of the sudden or does it seem like it gets worse and worse over a short span of rpm and then it takes a bit more throttle to push it another hundred or two rpm? If so, it's probably just dead lean in the next cell. That's why the other ECU was different. Different map. What are your AFR's when it's doing this? Did you try fattening it up? Big fat injectors don't need to be very far off to be dead lean. Make sure you bump fuel by percentages with those fat squirters. I've idled 1200 cc injectors on a 2 liter 4 cylinder with the AEM. Mark (AEM cert tuner)

I know this is old, but supramania has them for sale all the time. You need both pieces of the pan and the pickup according to what the seasoned guys said.

Do a leakdown...

Gah! Sorry. I guess I implied that by what the title of the linked thread is, but I shoulda have been more obvious about it. Can a mod edit my post for me to make that explicit? Maybe delete this post on top of it to clean it up? If it gets stickied...

For additional info; http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29117 Summary: -2JZ cams can be modified by a machinist to fit; some people sell cams, however. Crower makes a set that got three digit gains at redline and steep two digit gains at peak. (search for the group buy on supramania) -Pistons are the same as 2JZGTE; including wrist pins and rings -Main and rod bearings are the same -Timing belt from an Isuzu fits. -Valvetrain is swappable -Water pump is an upgrade -Some guys retrofit 2JZGTE ECU's -I've seen guys flowbench a 1JZ with 2JZ valves for substantial gains on a flowbench -Alternator and Power Steering -Head Gasket -Head Studs/Bolts -Rod Bolts

AFAIK, the pickup is pretty easy. Just look at a ZR pickup and modify the other to work or just reason it out. There are plenty of threads on here of guys modifying pickup tubes. Be sure to analyze the depth and repeat what was there before.

I would add that, since I am looking at doing an inline 6 turbo swap, I am doing a lot of research on the Toy L6's. The 1JZ is short on piston/rod options. Most of the options are either quite expensive or imported from japan; which is also quite expensive. Rods particularly. EDIT: I found Spool rods for $695, but I have not heard much of them. One fellow was after them on SupraMania after his ~750+ whp 1JZ finally bent the rods.

Drop the stop back down and simply stay in the cockpit for the first 30 seconds and you'll be fine. That's what I did.

I did one of the first GReddy TT kits on my 350 some while ago. Yeah, they respond well to boost and hold up with appropriate tuning. Why change? Cause we can!

The front clip can be grafted to 240SX's. Get the half cut and sell the body panels, suspension, brakes, headlights, etc. to all the kids sliding their cars sideways into a tire wall.

Are you posting a technical thread (since it's in the tech section) or are you trying to turn it into a rally cry for your political views? I suggest if you want to get it TS'd keep going; they adhere to the rules pretty closely. You had a good thread going...

Doesn't matter whether he is or is not. You know how it will go. He is either right on top of you asking 'did you get this done yet?' and 'can you do this while you're in there?' and 'it shouldn't cost that much more', etc., or he will get a massive bill after it's done and not agree to the amount of work it took. By law you have to give him a quote if it's over $500 (IIRC) or the second situation will occur. Then you're left with another car that you can't file for the title on and he is out of a car. Trust me. I used to run a shop and that type of customer will never be a profitable situation for you.

I just bought some of their great suspension/brake stuff. That seems to be a big portion of what they do now.