WizardBlack

I would just make sure it sees a little bit of positive pressure before it opens to avoid wasting fuel when sitting a long time. I might do this soon, and I would probably use the lowest one; 1/4~1 psi. The only other one that might be usable is the 1~5 psi and that's pushing it. Would you want 5 pounds per square inch of pressure on the walls of your gas tank before it opened?

Try McMaster-Carr and such. I doubt you will find something to hold both brake lines and the rubber lines, but you can mount them separately.

He lives in TX, and I doubt he's gonna put hundreds of thousands of miles on it in extremely humid conditions anymore to make it a problem. My concern is the paint job he mentioned. You can't paint over peeling paint. It will just peel off, too.

Read this: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html Go through it and see what you have, now.

Pretty cool setup you made for it!

Oh, don't do that. Especially with parts that your engine sucks through. You are lucky they didn't have any trash (or little metal bits) in them for your engine to suck in and tear the @*$! out of your combustion chambers, etc. Glad to hear you got it, though. Mark

I ordered a set of Magnecor wires straight from the factory. Each one was tailored to my exact length I specified and with the tips that I specified. That's definitely the way to go.

Keep looking, they can still be had.

Just be careful replacing with stainless. It is softer than some metals and may not hold up in certain locations. I do the same thing regarding torque.

TIG punches heat into the material slower, generally. TIG is slower in general. With that, you have a larger amount of total heat in the TIG'ed part than MIG. The surface area is actually about the same; the entire part. Soon as you start putting heat into the surface, it starts transmitting it out to the whole part as well as radiating it off the part. With MIG, you are "in and out" much faster, so the rest of the part is generally not heated up much by the time you are done. Your weld area cools faster. That is why you can't TIG sheetmetal for a body. Too much heat, too much expansion, too much warp.

It would probably stick better to a primer than gelcoat. Make sure you have scuffed it and cleaned it with Isopropyl Alcohol or similar to ensure good adhesion. Edit: Wait a minute. What are you painting satin black? The mirrors? They would need scuffed as well before spraying for best adhesion. I would just remove the rubber sheath over the stalk to give it a more delicate look. There is something called European Trim Black (a 3M product) that we use for OEM replacement parts at work to trim out stuff like that.

Classic Datsun is a great company to work with.

It gets a bit of getting used to, but it makes it more unique, for sure. You can see mine in my signature link. I thought they were motorcycle mirrors as well, but they look a lot like the BRE units; even the fastening hardware for the back side. Yours might be a bit further forward than mine... Maybe the position on mine might be more attractive for you.

Price? Post a for sale thread and it should go quick.

No worries. I personally like the PWM IAC as well. I've had too many stepper motors hunting around for my own taste. Anyways, if you are in "JY mode", I am sure you can find a SBF in the JY to get one from.

Ah, thank you! That's even better.

Got the tranny?

PWM: Faster response Less air flow Simpler ECU control requirements No memory of where it is Always pulling juice when idling Stepper: Can chase itself around sometimes More air flow (typically) More complicated ECU control Stays where you leave it which can take a second to adjust when you are cranking but doesn't need constant energy to stay where it's at

Yeah, here ya go! This is a PWM style and has a simple two bolt flange. All you need to do is get a piece of 1/2" aluminum plate. Drill two holes and tap them to bolt the IAC to. Drill another two holes for the in and out of the circuit (doesn't matter which is which) and tap them for pipe thread. Screw a pair of pipe thread to hose barb fittings and just hook your vac lines up to the hosebarbs. Fab a little bracket to bolt it to your intake manifold and you're set! http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?displayName=Idle+Air+Control+Valve&itemId=207-0&navValue=15900207&parentId=59-0&productId=3077&fromString=&itemIdentifier=3077_127091_0_&filterByKeyWord=&categoryNValue=&isSearchByPartNumber=&categoryDisplayName=EngineManagement&store=1731&skuDescription=Duralast/IdleAirControlValve&fromWhere=&searchText=&_requestid=316007 I have one of these brand new with gasket and flying loom. I'll make ya a deal! Mark

I thought Fox body mustangs used an easy PWM IAC valve. I have one that I was going to use but I never bothered with an IAC. It's in my toolbox. They have a nice flat mounting surface to bolt onto anything you come up with. Regarding stepper IAC's, I didn't think they fed current to both circuits at the same time??... Just one depending on how it needed to be changed...?

As long as you have a similar brand of injector to get some times off of, you should be close enough. It doesn't really make a lot of difference unless you had an existing map with another injector and wanted to minimize the retuning when you change injectors.

I personally doubt the heads and block are untrue; I thought this was rebuilt before it went into "hibernation" or somesuch? Or was it pulled from a car due to a problem? The rebuild books could mislead someone doing their first rebuild because they will probably cover every aspect of check/repair since lots of the guys buying the books are doing circle track racing or bracket racing, etc. and want to blueprint their engine. I would have them simply look at it for trueness, hot tank it, etc. You can have them disassemble, but that's a pretty easy thing to do yourself and you will have to reassemble it anyways, so it's a cheap and easy start for you. Jeg's should have a couple cheap tools for small block F and C to get the valvetrain apart easily by yourself. Small blocks are actually pretty easy all around to DIY.

Hmm, guess I will have to get back in there and check that. I have some AZC front control arms to install anyways. When I took a fender off (to replace it), I realized that the full polyurethane bushing kit install messed up the effective length of my TC rods, which shoved my wheels forward, caused intereference between the group buy Rota wheels and the xenon front bumper, excessive toe out, etc.

Oh, gotcha. Dang, you gotta flog those little smilie things!

I remember an Evo8 I used to have sported a full race motor and I drove it every day. (Shop car and all, so I had an excuse... ). When they were newer cars in the USA and most ppl didn't know what they were, it was funny to watch people's faces ahead of you in the Taco Bell line when they hear the "rump rump rump" from the little import with the big spoiler. Dang, that thing would shake your chest at idle. I miss it. Even though everyone called it Satan on wheels for all the R&D issues I had to deal with. LOL.