WizardBlack

For those who are interested in swapping, I am told (FWIW) that the 6.0L LQ4 iron motors are about 80 lbs heavier than the aluminum variant and are essentially an LS2 block cast in iron. Likewise, they have dished pistons and are pretty good for boosting out of the box. The nicest thing is that they are quite a bit cheaper than Camaro/Corvette motors, etc.

Your title can be a bit misleading. It sounds like you want a '73 that is running or a '73 that is not on the east coast.

BTW, remember that Subaru engines mount to the firewall above the tranny at the 12 o'clock position. Here is the shifter next to a shortened one: http://www.scoobymods.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2720&d=1088389404 Upper half installed: http://www.scoobymods.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2727&d=1088390861 Up close: http://www.scoobymods.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2731&d=1088391157 Notice that there is a ring below the shift knob that you pull up to get into reverse gate (to the right of 5 and 6). There is a cable attached to it to pull a lockout gate out of the way. Pulling the shifter away from the linkage: http://www.scoobymods.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2733&d=1088392012 Diagram showing the "stay" which gives you the leverage to push/pull and twist the trans link: http://www.scoobymods.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2741&d=1088392457 Diagram showing what the bottom of the shifter pivots around in; a plastic cup: http://www.scoobymods.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2739&d=1088392423 Diagram showing the whole thing. Top left shows the end of the link on the trans. Bottom left is the 'stay' which bolts to the trans (IIRC) to provide the leverage: http://www.scoobymods.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2738&d=1088392398 Showing the closeup of the cup that the shifter rides in: http://www.scoobymods.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2747&d=1088393282 Whole thread: http://www.scoobymods.com/kartboy_sti_short_shifter-t3785.html?amp; Hope that helps. I used to be a Subaru tuner. 650 whp on a stock block '05 STi with old Cam2. Held up for plenty of drag runs until the customer got time to put a built block in. The ring lands had cracked apart from the power, but were still intact and holding compression.

You see on the STi pic, the shroud around the opening for the propshaft? It is plated in zinc? Just above it and behind a bit is the linkage for the shifter. It's a squared-off "U" shape and also plated with a gold zinc. That's it. STi's use just the one linkage and it's mechanical. The forward versus rearward shifter gates are achieved by pushing/pulling that link. To move from the left, to center, to right, to reverse lateral gates, the link is twisted. Kinda like a joystick hooked to the other side of a simple cantilever system. Look up aftermarket short shifter kits. Some of the complete shifters are retrofit and should show the majority of the shifter linkage. The shift knob, when sitting in neutral, should be maybe four to six inches past the end of the tranny, I'd say. Roughly. I think all four cylinder engine blocks for the last 10~15+ years bolt the same to mounts and trannies. The STi engine block is different on cams and whatnot, of course. The last couple years they have changed quite a few things rapidly, but I think the basic bolt-on stuff is still the same as always. That's one of the nice things about Subaru. I know that there are swapout center diffs (IIRC) that ppl use to make a Subaru RWD to dyno them. Not sure if it works on the STi 6 speed, however. The 6 speed is a very well engineered and very tough trans. Don't buy an RX7 tranny.

Ya lost me on that one...

LOL, that's why I didn't say much either.

Your layout looks good. The only alteration some people make is to switch which end of the IC is connected to the throttle body. I personally switched them so that the cool post-intercooler charge doesn't have to run across the back of the radiator where the fans blow hot air on it. I don't think it's a major issue, though. Plenty of both ways. Silicon intakes is good.

Hmm, I guess maybe for that specific operation if you had it set up well enough you might be alright, but I would not recommend it. TIG may be very controllable and clean, but it dumps heat in like no tommorow.

Hmm, you could probably make judicious use of compressed air, a flexible LED light, etc. Drop some oil down in the plug holes before rotating. Take a brush to the rocker threads to get them cleaned up. Buzz the mating surfaces smooth. Drop the oil pan and inspect the rotating assembly. The lifter bores and cam surfaces are probably the iffy part. We can't tell from the photos. Very light rust could be rubbed (in a motion directional manner) with WD40 and the lightest scotch brite. I guess a lot of it depends on whether this is an 'on the cheap' kinda "oh well if it doesn't work out" kind of thing. If I was putting it in a car, I'd just take it apart, get a new gasket kit and have a machine shop hot tank and clean up the critical surfaces.

Fuel is not the proper solution to make such gross changes in cylinder cooling. Varying fuel has actually been done on a few cars that I am aware (at the commercial level), but that is to correct intake manifold imbalances; not coolant flow imbalances.

As ktm has said, the biggest issue on the L series specifically is no doubt the cooling issue. I would address that first if you want to correct issues with the L. Most cars don't have that severe of a preference as to which cylinder suffers damage first. I have also implemented the cooling bypasses (again, as found in the sticky) and found them to be very helpful. I have yet to change the plenum on my L-turbo; although it's on the list.

I know what forum I am posting in. Look at my post count. I am also a HZ supporter. Everyone was relating what kind of classic heritage they received from their fathers and grandfathers and how it affects their views of what is enjoyable in today's world and desirable in their project cars. You aren't the only one that mentioned modern electronics versus simple cars of yesterday, etc. That is one of the largest differences between old school and new cars. I was simply pointing out that my "heritage" was a bit different and had nothing to do with your post. Maybe the fact that I have wired modern cars from scratch, built my own standalones, tuned many big power cars for a living, etc. had something to do with the fixation on the electronics side of things. I am sure if you wanted to search my posting and project car, you'd see I don't have a habit of posting completely in the wrong area, etc. Anyways, this isn't a Technical thread, nor do I feel the need to get into a pissing match about something, so I will just sign off here and not fuel the fire. Cheers.

8 feed and 6 return.

I had the same issue. I also replace with new Timken units and followed the Haynes spec with 25 ft. lbs. and then back off 60*, etc. I ended up tightening them a bit to stop them from wobbling just as you described. I don't have a ton of miles on the car since then, however, to prove it doesn't wear the bearings. They still do spin, just not like they're without any resistance. I really felt like the wobble was about half a degree or so. Maybe less, but it was still a certain amount and more than I was willing to allow.

Meh, just ship it to them. It's worth it.

Absolutely. Per cylinder air flow variations can be noticeable; even on modern engines. I've no idea what a stock L intake varies by, but I am sure it's a contributor to some degree.

Notice that the front axles are in the supposed "bell housing". The section that that piece bolts on to is the steel girdle for the trans with fittings to route a trans cooler to it. You will have to find a way to either eliminate the front differential or shift the motor very far forward. Likewise, you can see the plastic and rubber dogbone sticking off of the front of the trans. It swivels on it's mount point on the trans. The photo in post #66 shows the bottom view of the engine with the plastic timing covers added (and pointed down). Post #71 with the STi trans shows how much further back from that that the axles for the front wheels are. All Subaru engines have very similar dimensions, but the exhaust manifold is different. A factory turbo exhaust manifold will shoot straight down from both exhaust ports, but will also take room to the right of the passenger exhaust flange and also room behind the passenger head for the turbo; which usually sits behind the passenger head. Hope that helps.

You are assuming my post was a response to yours...

Wow, that's an old thread if Joel is asking questions. A serious swap like the RB is definitely for guys who have had more than their share of cars and seen quite a few things. Other than the cost and technical requirements, hybrid cars require a good deal of patience. When I was running a speed shop, I saw plenty of kids getting their first real car to modify (I usually dealt with Evo's, STi's, Supra's, etc). I always enjoyed explaining a lot of things about modding cars, but one thing they all had in common was a lack of patience. A hybrid car like the RB/S30 takes most people a few years to get up and running properly and more years to do the rest of the car. A lot of kids won't have the patience, expertise or money to accomplish that. Heck, I have had lots of heavily modified cars and I only just really got the patience to do one at 33.

Yep, pretty much for sports cars as well. I'd say the CHRA gets worn out before it's too bad. Performance guys are a little more picky about spool, so most get fixed when they're found, but I've never heard of a failure from the crack.

Yeah, TIG is even worse. When you are TIGing a few small bits, you invariably have a few solvent soaked rags or paper towels to clean stuff off. Very bad to leave close to welding area.

I've done it plenty of times and I can still count to twenty with sandals....

Cracks in the turbine housing can be welded. No problem. The section missing on the CHRA in the last picture was removed by the tech who balanced the assembly when it was put together. AFAIK, it is basically done with a grinder. The wheel has an excessively long "snout" to allow it to be ground down in this manner to achieve the balance. In summary, you only have the one problem (a crack in the turbine) and that can be welded by an auto-savvy TIG welder. They weld them all the time on Subaru's which are also prone to cracks.

I doubt it matters at idle. When idling, you can stick your finger into the compressor and stop the CHRA altogether. Assuming you don't have the wimpy TTT's (teeny tiny turbos).

Jan, Welcome to HybridZ! Congrats on the new car! As a rule, HybridZ admins ask members to search fairly extensively before asking questions. I think you should be able to find some nice install threads (with pics) on here and a few youtube soundclips to give you an idea what it might sound like. If I had any direct experience with the exhaust you refer to, however, I'd be happy to share. I know lots of N/A guys like to buy or build twice pipes. Cheers, Mark