WizardBlack

The new SRT4 turbo has no actual mufflers. It sounds a tad louder than most stock cars, but it's close enough to be legal. Now, you slap a BIG turbo on and you get hardly any muffling from it, though.

Assuming the materials themselves weren't substandard. You might end up with a whole new CHRA and machinework to straighten the housings (if they could be). In the end you would have a Precision priced turbo.

OK, thanks for the recommendation. I was thinking you couldn't get them pounded together, but rather you had to slit the inner panel in a few spots to spread it up far enough, and then you'd have to install some extra metal to close it all off. How about the two ends of each cut where it tapers back to the original L-bend at the factory join? You know, the area right close to under each end of the flares?

You mean the turbine, right? Not compressor? It's so sneaky because it's so simple. It essentially cuts hit turbine size in half so the lesser amount of exhaust at lower rpm (and mostly off boost) yields a higher velocity when it hits the turbine; therefore making it spin to higher rpm for the given exhaust flow. Kudos! It's essentially a similar device to VNT, but very elegant. And that is substantial gains! The only thing that bothers me in the comparison is the fact that you make substantial more power with slightly less boost from 5,000 to 6,400 rpm. What else was changed between these two dyno sheets?

^^^ Still curious about this. I have all the bits in my shop now to install them. I have MIG/TIG/Stick experience, etc. Just not sure how to patch the little triangles in; nor whatever you do to patch the leading and trailing sections of the cutouts back together. Help would be awesome. If someone tells me in detail how to do it, I'll get good pics when I perform the mod so they can be added to the sticky.

What do you call a small outbuilding on a country farm where the owner keeps devices to repair his tractors?

I think Hondas and rice are some of the biggest conformity groups out there. Why else would this guy be blowing a lot of money for a 'phat' body kit and asking for others' opinions to boot? Somebody on the board had to have started another account just to do this. Why would someone go out there and find a random website to create an account just to post a question like this?

What EGT probe did you get that has threads on the actual sensor? Most I have seen are installed via compression fittings like the link from zxtman.

Get a wideband, too.

You can buy the GReddy style solenoid separately and control it with a standalone. I did that a lot for roadracers so they could have throttle dependent boost targets. It helps to linearize the power vs. the throttle (like an N/A car) for better control in the corners.

Yes, on forged, everything is machined. The sides will be smooth with the micro grooves from machining; similar to the top. Even the insides will be machined and not have any rough texture to them.

The steering shaft bushing is a nice upgrade, too. It should be in the bushing kit.

The second photo (down the axis of the wrist pin) shows the rough texture on the sides of the pistons that support the wrist pin. That's an obvious indicator of a cast part.

Well jack it up and inspect them. See if they've been dry by pushing grease into them (the outers, anyways). Check for any wiggle or play, etc. If you don't have much slop in the steering wheel going down the highway, then they are probably still acceptable.

Why waste money on something that won't last? Why waste time setting a motor up when you're going to possibly damage it when the junk turbo explodes or fails? Buy a DSM, Evi, Sti, WRX turbo, etc. There are plenty of 'good' options available.

If they look brand new, they should be very shiny; like a 'polished' aluminum rim. If they are stock, not so. If they have a stamp in them, then they are probably stockers. I don't know of many aftermarket pistons that have stamps on them.

Why not a Dynapack style dyno. You can hold it at load all day.

Listen to what we're saying, though. The MS doesn't control a cylinder individually in any aspect. It could be your wiring/wires/plugs/injectors or the cylinder itself. MS is practically incapable of fouling up a single cylinder on a 6-cyl install. Nothing is sequential.

Bottom line is intercoolers cause some level of pressure drop. With this, you have the following options: Tap at turbo outlet ---> More careful, gradual spool, slightly less boost gets to the engine, wastegate keeps open a bit more on shift (if it was open when you shift) Tap at manifold ---> More aggressive spool, possible boost spike, more boost gets to the engine, vacuum can pull the wastegate shut more during shift which redirects more exhaust by the turbine wheel to keep it going Whichever way you do it, try to use silicone vacuum line (not cheapy vinyl junk from a parts store) or thick wall rubber as an acceptable secondary option. Likewise, use clamps or good wire ties to hold every single vacuum line in place. I use tie wraps and double them up. To know how far the tie wraps will go, I install one or two and tighten them until they break so I know how far I can go.

So, it's a CAN bus system with solid state relays. You still have to hook up all inputs and outputs. Not sure why the big facination with dropping it down to a few signal wires is all that special unless you have multiple computers, etc. Saying you just need to use the computer screen to diagnose your problems is false; you still have to ensure all your wiring is correct. This simply takes out the necessity of knowing how to wire a relay. In fact it's simply a programmable set of relays and pwm modules. Not bad, but I'll pass. Might be nifty on something with tons of gadgets, lighting, chassis electronics, etc., I suppose.

[Positive battery post] <------------------------> Headlight Pos Pole [Negative battery post] <----> [switch] <======> Headlight High/Lowbeam Neg Poles

Don't. Buy. Chinese. Turbos. Someone needs to sticky that d@mn statement right there. If a new turbo costs less than $500 by itself; it's probably Chinese.

Just to the left of the 'A' in 'A/R' (with text right side up) is probably a pretty good spot to drill and tap for an 1/8" pipe thread fitting. If you want to go that way. They usually have plenty of meat to tap into. I've done it on plenty of turbos. You can reach in and check thickness easily enough. It doesn't take much to be fine in that kind of situation; maybe 1/8".

Listen to Tony. He has everything right. Many turbo installs use the manifold for boost reference to the turbo. Pressure drop can be several pounds or not much at all. Likewise for boost spikes, etc. You just have to try each way and see which one is agreeable to you. I use the manifold, myself.

You see, this is why I don't like random numbers for a fuel map. What you need to do is take a datalog while it is recording actual pulsewidth. From there you can calculate what the duty cycle is at the corresponding rpm. Search for the formula; it isn't hard. I'm guessing you are maxing your injectors out; this will also cause some injectors to get flaky and cause inconsistent A/F ratios. Some get flaky as low as 80% duty cycle. With Megasquirt, all you really need to do is make sure the injectors fit and they're big enough. You don't need to (or want to) size them exactly for the power levels, etc. Fuel pressure should have nothing to do with rpm unless the pump or plumbing isn't up to the task. Set your curb pressure to 43.5 (ie., at idle with the hose pulled from the regulator) and simply add/subtract your relative pressure to determine what your instantaneous fuel pressure should be. In other words, with 15 psi and standard curb pressure, you should hit 58.5 psi fuel pressure and as long as your boost gauge is pegged at 15, your fuel pressure should be pegged at 58.5.